Hammerite vs. Rust Encapsulator

Bingo, that's what I needed. Thanks!

 

8 days and I still don't see any paint.... getting pissed.... shoulda stuck with Jamestown...

Stupid Dutchmen, always trying to save a buck....

 

Last week I delivered a wagon to Commonwealth Automotive in Ashley Falls Ma where I met owner Jim Boltrom (nice guy). We talked for over 3 hours and one of the subjects that came up was Hammerite. He said he doesn’t use it because it wasn’t meant for Jeep frames, he said it has a small amount of glass and when the frame twist or gets hit by a rock it could develop a crack in the finish that water could seep in causing rust to form on the frame.

I have no experience with Hammerite just offering another point of view.

 

I guess we'll see. Though from what Bubba has said I don't think there will be much of a problem.

Sent an email to customer service over at discount paint, see if they can at least get me at tracking number. When I ordered they said 4-5 days shipping, guaranteed to ship day after purchase. That would have put it here by Monday at the latest...

 

We all know how flexible early 5 frames are especially with a glass body on them. I twisted my frame until it cracked but the hammerite never had any problems. It stays sort of flexible, I didn't realize how good this stuff was until I tried to get it back off my frame 10 years later. Throw some on some scrap steel and wait 4 days and then try to get it off again, twist it, bang on it with a hammer.. it'll still be there.. In fact the only way I have found to get it off efficiently is to heat it up with the torch then hit ti with the heavy wire wheel. It will come off with just the wire wheel but you really have to grind at it for a while..

BUBBA

 

!@$(&#@%$(&!#@(*&#!!*&Y%$@&!!

Just got an email back from Discount Paint. They shipped August 3, but UPS damaged it in transit, they're shipping again today. Fan frickin tastic. I wanted to try this stuff out and see how it worked because if it worked good I was gonna order a bunch more and get everything I could painted before I left. Doesn't look like that's gonna happen now - I won't get it until mid to late next week, which means if I order again right away I won't have the extra paint until the week before I leave for school. It MIGHT be enough time, but DANG that's pushing it. I hate pushing it....

 

I've used a brand name spray rust encaspulator that worked excellently, then it suddenly disappeared in the Mid-Atlantic region (can't recall the name). Permatex has a 2-step brush on process that I'm sorry I wasted my money on - unsusual considering that I should own stock in Permatex for the number of tubes of permatex Blue & Gasket Maker I've bought.
I've never heard of Hammerite. Thanks for the link.

gj

 

It sounds like somebody's sitting on smaller orders until they get a minimum distributor-sized order & discount.

gj

 

I hadn't heard of Hammertite until this thread and I had just painted my frame with Eastwood. However, I ordered a couple of cans from Jamestown to try it on some other stuff and then possibly the underside of my tub when the time comes.

Just now I was looking thru my Eastwood catalog and low and behold they have some rattle cans of Hammertite on page 60. Most are the hammered finish instead of the smooth though.

Go figure. Eastwood sells Hammertite.

JC

 

Found a local dealer in Ontario Calif called Paint Bucket 5.99 a can bought a couple to try. All they had was hammer finish so I'll see how that looks and works

 

Posting a "buyer feedback" on Discountpaint.net right now. For those of you who are impatient, here's a summary: THEY SUCK. AVOID AT ALL COSTS.

 

Couldn't wait, did a test spot on the inside of the back bumper tonight. Put on 3 coats 10-15 minutes apart as per the directions. I'll comment on the finish tomorrow after it's dried (only takes an hour to dry to handle, which is good - but I plan on being fast asleep in an hour, so it'll have to wait until tomorrow.)

The one downside I see so far is that if you don't get all your coats on within an hour, you gotta wait 10 days!!! Of course if you run out of paint partway through a job, you have time to order more before you can paint again anyway. But Ziv warned me to follow their instructions about time between coats, so I guess I better. So if you use this stuff, just make sure you have enough on hand to get 3-5 coats on whatever you're painting!!

 

Initial review:

Looks good. Having to put on 3-5 coats runs through a can pretty darn quick, though. Doing 4 coats both sides on the tranny crossmember and skidplate cost me a complete can. Brushing is DEFINITELY the way to go.

I pulled a stupid move and flipped the parts over and painted the other side a bit too soon, pulled up a few spots. On the up side it let me get a look at the thickness, looks really promising! Nice and thick and holds together - the spots where I opened up the holes I can grab the edges and peel back some, kinda neat for a paint. I'm sure once I get those patched up and it cures, it ain't gonna come off!!

Seems to cover over existing paint just fine. If the paint is only partially removed, though, you can still see the lines where the paint stops and the bare metal starts. So if you just wirebrush off the loose stuff, and end up with patches of bare metal amongst mostly paint, or vice versa, the final paintjob will look kinda funky. If it's completely smooth, well, it'll look pretty darn good, from what I can see!!

 

So Brian, did you do the whole frame...how many cans did it take? Should I buy a Gallon instead? I plan to do the whole frame before I put my tub back on.

 

Never got to my frame, but for a job like that, I'd recommend a gallon, with a rattle can or two to get at the tough spots.

I'm witholding judgement at the moment, though. After letting my tranny crossmember sit for the recommended 10 days drying time, I was able to chip paint off with my fingernail quite easily. As that has NOT been the normal result for other people, though, I figure I must have screwed something up. I did my steering column right before I left for school, once I have an idea how that turned out I'll give my full oppinion.

 

To late I just bought a gallon from Jamestown...crap I hope it works for me.

 

Talked to the owner of a local True Value Hardware here in Brookville, he said he use to use hammerite all the time. He said they have now been bought out by Rust Oleum. It is now called Rust Oleum Hammered. It is still avalible at James Town and other sources.

 

I'm not so sure. I picked up a couple of cans recently to paint the front of my frame. It was rustoleum - hammerite smooth finish. (I think - can check tonight). The directions were strange - recoat within one hour or after 10 days. It's not just the standard rustoleum.