Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by johneyboy03, Nov 6, 2011.
I'm guessing the guy filming ran for his life.
Dang that sounds good.
ahah my bad, i make a short video for my profil.
Here is the full video....
Did took the wrong video, i put the full one on previus post.
What is the tread pattern on those tires?
Tsl Bias 36 x 12.5 x 15 on beadlock rim
Ha... The first video sure gives the impression that you hit the tree.
That tread doesn't seem to eject that mud very well.............what width wheel?
That video sure makes me wish my Jeep was further along in the build. Great vid .
It's a 8 inch wide, but with the bedlock it bring it to a 9 inch.
About the mud not ejecting it all depend on the speed i'm running. With the 6.32 granny gear tire doesn't spin much so tire doesn't eject mud very good.
But on second speed there is no problem with the mud.
My general approach when wheeling is to try the first speed, let the mechanic work is way up. I'm not a big fan of beating mechanic so i only do it when absolutly necessary.
I'm my video first two try are in first speed and the last one where i climb i'm in the second one.
Worked on my plow this week-end.
I fit this plow last year without any side. I was using it only for finition but without side it was hard to make something clean.
So i put side, that i can remove depending on how it will work.
Cant wait for snow to come to give it a try
If that plow does not have a trip, you need to go real slow.
There is two spring on the back, you just don't see them.
it's my second season witht he plow, work good last year but you need to have side ahah
Just being the devil's advocate here, but won't the sides prevent it from being able to flip down? I'd think the sides would almost have to be built on a pivot point at the bottom rear corner to allow the blade to move independently from the sides, no?
You bring a good point here....never tought about that before you mention it. Don't have snow yet. I will look at that when i will have the first snow fall.
Little video of friend and me playing in the snow.
I love to snow wheel. We finally got some snow here at Tahoe. Cant wait to get out. Thanks for posting the video.
We do get a lot of snow around here. it was my first time playing with the jeep cause i used to plow with it.
It's really fun to be able to put the pedal to the metal. On solid ground you cannot do that
i should make a change over my title, it's been 5 year since i finished my coil spring set-up. It should me named the never ending project.
So spring its coming in, meaning that it's time for this year modification. It wont be like other year that i used to change a lot of thing.
My projects this year will all be around the engine.
Si now i'm going with drastic measure.
First of all i'm putting a flowkooler pump on the 360 along with a recommender robertshaw 180 degree tstat. I have put years ago a dual electric fan from a ford taurus and this summer i noticed that the fan on the driver side when idling is pulling cold air even is engine is around 210 degree. My thinking on that is that there is not enought flow going into the radiator when idling. So my fan are too much effective for the stock flow. So having more flow with the flowkooler with give me more cooling since my fan can do more.
Second on the list is the pulley swap. I'm having problem with my CS144 alternator. Normaly this alternator is mounted with a serpentine pulley. I swap the v belt pulley from my 12si alternator. But v-belt is slipping a lot even if i have a 180 degree coverage over the pulley.
So i found on a 4x4 page someone selling parts from a 1987 wagonneer that has a dual belt set-up for alternator. I bought it for a cheap price. So i will change all the pulley in hope to get rid of the single slipping belt.
You may have seem thread in intermediate about the oil pressure issus on my jeep.
My 360 has been rebuilt 7 years ago but i never like the low pressure oil when engine hot and on idle. I use to get around 5-10 psi no more. I never had problem with that but it was always be something i was concern about.
I already have a oil relocation kit that goes over the oem filter. Been working great for the last 5 years but i noticed the oil relocation plate from bulltear and BJ's offroad hat get rid of the oem filter mount and it bolted right under the oil pump gear. So less restriction going this way. So i pull the trigger yesterday and bought from BJ's offroad the plate along a midplate for the oil pump.
Along the oil relocation kit i decided to make a try on a remote tstat for oil and a oil cooler the the engine oil. The remote tstat will open to let the oil going into the oil cooler at 180 degree. So it will work at the same temp as the prestone t-stat.
And for finish the spring project and i will change all the seal for the engine.
Rear crank seal
Oil pump seal
Front cover seal
Water pump seal
Valve cover seal
i will post more picture when i will do the job.
Johney...........I personally have had mixed results by using the flowkooler pump or plate...........Yes it will move more water at a lower speed.........but in the same breath if the water is not pausing long enough to heat sink the heat out of the block ..........you may end up with similar results...........I've found that proper cooling has to start at the radiator......and that is normally based on sq. inches of area and how many cooling rows the radiator has...........if you have room a 3 row radiator may be worth looking at.
On the subject of low oil pressure and adding additional filtration & cooling I think is a Great Idea...........except that will probably not help your low oil pressure as in most cases the additional friction and galley length even through it may run a little cooler will probably still not give you much satisfaction in pounds of pressure at Idle........Pressure is created at the pump.....and is subject to the gear clearances against the walls and base of the pump cavity..........I see you have the Bulltear & BJ's oil Items which should help the end clearance by adding a steel base plate........but that still leaves the groves from prior trash running through the walls of that pump cavity..........and the only way to fix that is a new timing cover..................TA performance used to sell after market timing covers they bored and clearance in house to close that clearance up...........also the end clearance plate should be shimmed to the correct end clearance............Good Luck!
thank you for the reply. I take note of what you said.
About the pump, i need to change it anyway. I found some play in the bearing of the pump and i don't want to try too much my luck since it cost me a radiator the last time. I do have a 3 row since i have electric fan.
About the water not posing long enought, i have this explantion on flowkooler website that make sense to me...
The water has to have time to cool argument is most common one we hear. In a closed loop system if you keep the fluid in the heat exchanger you are simultaneously keeping it in the block longer. Unfortunately, the block is the part that is generating the heat. Sending hot coolant from your source (engine) through the heat exchanger (radiator) to the sink (air) will transfer heat as long as there is a temperature difference between the source and sink. The engine is still generating heat the whole time so why keep the coolant there any longer than you have to.
My opinion about that is more relative to the fact that i have two electric fan. With mechanical fan the CFM depend on engine speed, so on idle it move less air than at 2000-3000. Electric fan have the same cfm whatever the rpm of the engine. Having a hi flow water pump that get twice the flow on idle than an oem one, my fan should be able to substant the increase flow.
As for oil pressure, i know that the wall on the front cover could be part of the problem, but before pulling the trigger for a 500$ cover i'll give a try with the midplate. I will get as close as possible to the 0.002" tolerance on the plate. Also the oil cooler will help maintain a lower temperature on the oil helping the pump getting more pressure.
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