Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by tarry99, Mar 23, 2018.
What size brakes are on there now?
my main concern is they would get hot or fade. the Geo rotors aren't slotted.
a CJ5 had 9" brakes, but i have the 10" brakes, so 10" drum brakes on the back and the Geo rotors on the front. CJ curb weight is about 2665 lbs, per the internet, so +/-. that's right between the Geo and the FC.
so...logically, one could assume that 4 wheel disks would be appropriately up to task.
however, as forest gump would say, "i'm not a smart man Jennay". i don't want to trust my assumptions when it comes to stopping.
I put the Geo on my front and 11" self adjusting Bendix on the rear on the CJ. Yes it is much better than the factory but not anywhere close to what we all expect now with power brakes. I considered doing the Geo disc on the front of my wagon, same conversion, but with a wagon coming in around 32-3300 lbs and my experience on the CJ Geo, I have opted to go with the 11" Bendix on all 4 corners of the wagon. Then I will add a vacuum power booster from Herm if I need better feel (less leg) for the wife. I'm certainly no expert, but maybe thoughts are at some point it crosses the thresh hold on the smaller Geo stuff. For me, the wagon weight crossed.
if the geo tracker weighs 2300 lbs, add 4 adult occupants, +gear, im already past the curb weight of the FC, which only sits 2, and i wont be hauling anything in it ever....so....i dont know. seems legit. any brake estimate websites out there?
i posed this question to brennan, the dude that makes the brackets, and his response:
"My flat fender is 3700lbs loaded for a big trip with two people and gear. The tires are very heavy and wide 35 inch Krawlers and steel beadlock wheels. I've never had any want for more brakes with my conversion on all 4 corners. I've done tens of thousands of highway miles including cross country trips over stuff like wolf creek pass.
The late model 4 door Tracker/Sidekick has an option for vented rotors. You can use those with my conversion BUT you have to make sure to get the matching caliper. Those parts are a little more expensive, but could provide more resistance against fade."
My FC has 11"x 2" brakes all the way around, same as Willys Wagons. As long as they aren't coated with oil, they stop quite well in stock form. The FCs used to have an optional heavy rear weight to keep the rear end down.
If your stock FC brakes are in good working order, there is no real need to "upgrade" to discs.
I would keep the stock brakes.
If you want disc brakes and are concerned with the size and/or capacity of the Suzuki conversion, you might consider Focker's write up for the GM conversion.
Front Disc Brake Tutorial
I did a similar conversion on my D27, should be a thread around here somewhere. Fairly reasonable with junkyard stuff and not super hard to do. My biggest problem was the brake line routing. Make sure you get them right, makes a huge difference.
Plenty of brake torque calculators on the net..........as long as you can enter all the correct parameters , like friction area , master cylinder , caliper or wheel cylinder bore size , pedal ratio and correct weights.......it will tell you all you need to know......auto transmissions also need additional braking torque.
Has anyone had trouble with the wheels clearing the calipers? Looks like I need 1" spacers.
Yes, I bought all the parts and it looks like it will need at least a 3/4" spacer for both my 15"x5.5" CJ wheels and my 16"x6" Gladiator wheels. I was really hoping to avoid spacers. Bummer.
It clears the 16" factory KH rims with rivets (just barely) but not the 15". I tried the 15" from my wagon just for the heck of it. See post #9. My Geo Tracker Disc Conversion Experience
I had to grind a small bit from the calibers to clear my 15" factory wheels.
to the folks who did this, did you just use the front geo calipers on the back if you go 4 wheel disk? i am sure thats the way you would go, but i want to double check.
Received goodies from Brennan's yesterday...
William, how much did they cost you?
they cost me 65 bucks a set, and included the mounting hardware for the brake calipers. i bought 2 sets about 3 weeks ago.
$110 shipped for a set of 4.
I have a question regarding the brackets installation: I changed (upgraded?) the knuckles bolts to the ones you install from inside as per a recommendation in one thread here. Now it seems they are a tad short. If I put a lock washer there is not enough screw left. Have you encountered anything like that or you still have the regular bolting method into the knuckle? Most likely I will have to remove the spindle and install longer screws.
One step forward and two back!
This sums up my life lol
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