Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by tarry99, Mar 23, 2018.
Used them for years - two big issues:
1. If you push the pedal too hard to hold on a hill, its a real B**CH to get it to release.
2. They can, and have FROZEN on me in the cold during Elk season.
I have a couple floating around in the shop - I use a rock or log until I get the new rear discs on with the Caddy E-Brake.
12volts............battery goes dead Jeep goes down the hill............
I've used these for years, on various pieces of equipment........even on my old Jeep........https://www.mico.com/sites/default/files/document-pdfs/80950013Hydraulic Brake Locks.pdf
I have the one terry posted. I have had an issue with it bleeding off over a day or two. The PO installed in on the front axle. It is nice to have it on the front axle if you are starting out on a hill, but i wouldn’t trust it as a parking brake on a hill. I am going to put e brake backing plates on the rear of the jeep and use a forklift park brake lever/adjuster.
I never had mine bleed off.........but just the same I always blocked it with a few rocks front & rear........don't need any surprises!
Just finished this project. Moved my 11"s to the back, discs up front. Holy crap what a difference. Gives me a little more confidence on the road.
BTW, the harbor freight cup holder makes a great bleeding buddy...
What did this end up costing you? I have 11" brakes up front and I'd like to do the same. What MC are you using?
So I had the dual cylinder kit from herms.. but that MC bit the dust pretty quick. I ended up replacing it with a MC from a Ford Fairmont.
All in all I was under 300.00. Closer to 250.00
Mine stop well but definitely don't think they could lock up the front 33's. Do yours have enough power to lock them up or probably not?
I like the cup holder idea. May need to get one of those!
Thought I would update. Did the swap and didn't touch my rear brakes that were toast. Not a huge improvement. Redid rear brakes and things were good. Finally swapped out my proportioning valve to a disk/drum GM unit and now my brakes are strong. I haven't had to take any super hard stops thankfully but have tested them with firm pressure and they feel nice. I have 33's and personally, I am quite satisfied with the stopping force. Not a bad modification at all.
So the purportioning valve made all the difference? So does the 71 have the thru the floor pedals? Can a dual reservoir from the later CJ5's be used in the early ones with the single reservoir?
I don't know what the condition of that stock valve/block was. Perhaps my results are unique. I will say that having matched components likely aided my setup. No idea about your CJ.
A 71 does have thru the floor pedals, yes the later MC from a 71 can be used in the earlier cj's if you have the bracket to bolt it to the frame.
Does anyone have a link to this or part numbers I can search?
Wilwood website shows the remote reservoirs.
Has anyone confirmed the above studs don't require the rotor drilling?
I'm guessing no? My concern is if they are long enough at 1 1/2" vs the others listed as 1 15/16".
How did you run the brake line from the caliper to? Or did you just replace all the lines?
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