Discussion in 'Jeep Truck and FC Tech' started by jeepstar, Dec 15, 2019.
Things like this can be uploaded into the Resources area of the site.
Like an .STL file, so anybody can print it?
PDF is most common here along with jpgs
Check your thickness. As built the pedal rod is right against the underside of the sheet metal floor. If this moves it down from the floor I don't know what that will do with its contact point to the pedal.
granted, ive never looked at a complete, nice FC, but i would think that moving the pivot point down .5" isnt going to matter. if it does, i can always print a thinner one.
or....just use the one half to get it up to the underside of the floorboard like your picture shows.
are you running a rubber pad or anything between the rod and body? metal on metal rubbing just rubs me the wrong way.
Nothing between the rod and underside of the floor. And I am in complete agreement about metal on metal, but this is the way they designed it. I thought about putting some grease in there but think it will just attract dirt. With the carpet removed the rod only comes thru the floor 1.5". You can see in the photo where it rubs on the back of the pedal, not even a roller on the end. There is a bunch of geometry involved in this. If you'd like you can pm me and we can talk on the phone and I can try to get you some precise measurements. I think on the underside the measurements between the bolts that hold the pipe straps on and the bolts that hold the pedal on are very important.
i will do that, dont you worry, since you are so kind to help out another FC'er.
another question for you:
do you run a protective anything over your wire that runs from the pedal to the engine mechanism? i was thinking of using an old choke cable housing. like you said, there is a lot of geometry involved, and idk how the shifter linkage would work or if it interferes or has any potential to interfere, since its all running more or less along the same path. cramped area.
I'm happy with this. Its abs, carbon fiber version to follow
so, the blue ABS plastic "clamp" worked out well, so i went ahead and printed a carbon fiber set. the black one is the carbon fiber version.
560F melting point, over 5000psi tensile strength. more than good enough for my beater.
hopefully last question on this topic for you henry,
do you run an accelerator cable guide? i seen one on Ebay, looks simple enough to make by myself. just not sure where it mounts.
That's it! It is held by the bolt, that is just above the fuel pump, that holds the timing cover to the engine. The cable goes from the accelerator pedal rod, thru this and connects to the linkage for the carb. If it's cheap enough I'd just buy it. Might save you an hour of your time, or 2, and a lot of aggravation. I won't even tell you how much time I have in making the bracket that holds the parking brake cable to the transmission housing.
well, after 14 days of light pondering, this is what i came up with.
4" air line for the guide tube, and i used 1/2" flat stock for the bracket to attach to the timing cover bolt. i will cut it to length once i get that far.
Looks good! I might recommend beveling the inside of the tube on each end. They can be pretty sharp after running thru the threading machine.
Just an update....its finally warm enough to work on this while boiling sap....it worked pretty slick
would you be willing to share some other info?
the gas pedal wire, from the arm, goes back into the bracket that then travels upwards to the carb. how is the spring on the back side of the engine bracket actuated?
on my '60 chassis, there is a hole drilled and tapped, and a bracket with a hole in it is bolted there, so the spring can go from that 90 degree throttle bracket to the bracket on the back of the engine.
on my '58, that bracket isnt on the back of the engine, and neither is a tapped hole to make a new one.
i can post pics if im not being real clear or descriptive.
If your talking about the throttle return spring...I first installed one from the coil bracket to the carb but found at full throttle it over reached and wouldn't pull the throttle back, leaving it running wide open. So I installed one from the cam to an eye bolt I installed in the side cover, see the blue line. I assume the bracket with an X on it is what's missing from you engine.
correct, the second pic is the one im interested in. can you take another pic of that for me? one so i can see your bracket attached?
i thought about a spring to go from the bracket to the cab, but thought it should all be independent of the body.
My setup on the '60
Good pics from Jeepster. Mine came with an L shaped metal bracket that is held on by the last bolt that holds the exhaust manifold on. I "assume" it is original. My new spring goes to an eye bolt that is fastened to the trim that goes around the engine opening. I've got it going to one of the bolt holes to show it's approximate location. I also have the spring from the coil bracket to the carb previously shown. I can also see my cam is on bass ackward compared to Jeepster. I'll bet his is correct.
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