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Full time locked hubs

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Don X, Jun 2, 2011.

  1. Jun 2, 2011
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    My M38A1 has full time locked front hubs and I have no interest in installing manual locking hubs. I use it more than 95% of the time on the trail. Most of it's pavement action is flat towing.

    I've flat towed it a plenty as is and I know there is a little more wear and tear on the axle shafts and diff gears because of that. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of a trailer.

    Please tell me if I'm taking a drag on the old crack pipe but I was wondering, for a long tow, if I was to remove the splined outer flange that locks the axles shafts and bolt on a dummy flange without the splines wouldn't I be better off?

    I assume the dummy flange would have to completely encase the axle shaft to keep dirt and water out but that shouldn't be too difficult.

    Does that make any practical sense?
     
  2. Jun 2, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Just put lockouts on it and be done...IMO
     
  3. Jun 2, 2011
    Mr. Gangrene Jeans

    Mr. Gangrene Jeans I See Voices&Hear Visions

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    I think the dummy flange would need an inner bearing. Do you disconnect both driveshafts when flat towing?
     
  4. Jun 2, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    You could machine the splines from some old drive flanges and do it that way. Much easier to put locking hubs on though. Dial it in, dial it out, just a couple seconds vs. bolting and unbolting the hubs each time.
     
  5. Jun 2, 2011
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    The manual hubs stick out a little farther than the locked hubs. On some trails narrow is definitely better and I've seen manual hubs that blowed up real good on the trail. Also, they look better...IMO.


    I guess what I mean by dummy flange would be more like a hub cover that's shaped like the casing of a manual locking hub. It would bolt to the outside of the hub and won't touch the axles shaft or spindle so a seal or bearing won't be needed. Disconnecting the front drive shaft won't stop the axle and diff gears from turning and with the TC in neutral the front driveshaft won't spin.
     
  6. Jun 2, 2011
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    Nick, for the longer trips that I flat tow, I wouldn't mind having to turn 12 bolts; then I don't have to turn the hubs in or out when on the trail.
     
  7. Jun 2, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Just seems like a pain to have to scrape/ re-apply sealer every time, and lock washers would need to be replaced every few times... All VS. turning a dial. You won't blow up a lockout with the 4cy.
     
  8. Jun 2, 2011
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    All of these are interesting points and I've already considered most of them. The original question is, if I choose not to go with manual looking hubs, would my convoluted way be better than leaving them locked when flat towing?
     
  9. Jun 2, 2011
    pathkiller

    pathkiller Member

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    Advantage: Same as unlocking manual hubs. Less wear on front axle parts.
    Disadvantages: Numerous, outlined above. Extremely cumbersome process to switch between dummy slugs and drive flanges.

    Do the advantages outweigh the disadvantages? Only you can answer that. For me, there's no way I'd go to the trouble.
     
  10. Jun 2, 2011
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

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    Don why don't you get a set of locking hubs to TOW with then switch them out with the flanges when you get to the trail.......all the benefits of less moving parts with the pro's of your hubs for the trail..........plus you'd have trail spares for yourself or anyone else
     
  11. Jun 2, 2011
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

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    :iagree:
     
  12. Jun 2, 2011
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Or just put the original flanges on it, and tow it. Drop two driveshafts instead of one. I presume you're removing the rear driveshaft to flat tow?
     
  13. Jun 2, 2011
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    Jim, it seems like it would be much easier to just swap the flanges than putting on and and taking off a set of hubs just to unlock them once. As far as the trail spares, I'm planing on having a spare splined flange with me.

    Tim, dropping the front driveshaft won't stop the axles shafts and gears from turning, will it? and yes, I'll drop the rear shaft but with the TC in neutral there isn't a reason to drop the front one.
     
  14. Jun 2, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Putting a set of hubs on is no different than swapping flanges..
     
  15. Jun 2, 2011
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    I'm not trying to :dead horse: but I have limited experience with locking hubs so I'm trying to learn.

    Removing and installing a flange involves 6 bolts with lock washers and a sealing compound.

    With the hubs you have the bolts, washers and sealer but you also have some Allen head screws and a snap ring. Is that right? or am I seeing it as more complicated than it actually is.
     
  16. Jun 2, 2011
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    You need the snap ring in both cases. Otherwise, you are correct - the 6 allen head screws are in addition to the bolts and snap rings. You'll need to pry off and replace the dust cap on the flanges - the snap ring is under that.
     
  17. Jun 2, 2011
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

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    You can take lock outs off with 6 bolts or in my case 6 nuts

    Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk
     
  18. Jun 2, 2011
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    Tim, the dust caps on my A1 are steel and look like a ten gallon hat with a bowler style brim (sort of :D), are reusable and unless I missed something they don't have a snap ring.

    Jim, I have a set of Warn premium hubs on my work bench and they have a snap ring. In order to get to the snap ring you have remove the plate that the dial is on by removing the Allen head screws. As I said before, I have limited experience in regards to locking hubs and don't have much of a basis for comparison. Maybe you have a style that's different from mine?
     
  19. Jun 2, 2011
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Yes, the dust caps are like little bowler hats.

    Been a while since I've seen a flange, but I recall the axle sticks out of the flange and the snap ring goes on. Then the cap goes over. You have to pull the axle out to expose the snap ring groove. Stick a bolt in the end of the axle (even an undersized bolt will work - angle it a little to catch the threads) and pull on the axle end.
     
  20. Jun 2, 2011
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

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    oh yea you can
    I did it twice....
    it's not the horsepower, it's the airborne and coming down hard.
     
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