Please read the whole thread...It's been updated as others have encountered various issues. The information presented here was acquired from various EarlyCJ5 threads and a simple article from fourwheeler.com. I had to ask a lot of questions…Thanks to those who assisted me. If you gather all the parts in advance you should be able to swap your brakes over the weekend. The parts cost me $305.10 including tax and shipping. I know it can be done somewhat cheaper but it all depends on the junkyard deals you can get, caliper cost (I didn't have cores for exchange) and if you can avoid the $35 in shipping! I spent a bit of time looking for the best bargains. I did a mixture of local parts houses, Amazon, RockAuto and the junk yard. I suppose the advantage to having the local shops order for you is possible overnight free shipping. I think the biggest factor in the new brakes feeling great and worth the swap was "wearing" in the new pads. I bought the cheapest pads and maybe that was a contributing factor to the initial poor performance? Drive the Jeep a mile or two with your foot on the brakes a little (thanks jpflat2a). I completely forgot about this and was disappointed at first. The more I drive the Jeep the better the brakes function. Take your time bleeding the brake system and adjusting the rear drums. I also upgraded the rear drums to 11" at the same time and that made it hard to tell if the disc conversion was worth it. The Jeep: 1971 CJ5 Stock D27 with 10” front drum brakes and Warn locking hubs. Floor pedals and stock floor mounted dual chamber master cylinder with 1” bore. The parts I used: Caliper mounting brackets from the wrecking yard - '81 Chevy 1/2 ton 4WD (K10). Caliper - '71-'78 Chevy K10 - Oreillys Part #: 18-4046 Left Caliper - '71-'78 Chevy K10 - Oreillys Part #: 18-4045 Right Organic pads - '71-'78 Chevy K10 - Oreillys Part #: LD52 (too cheap...Go up a price point) Rotors (1.12 or 1-1/8" thick) - '77-'80 Jeep CJ - Raybestos 3550R Brake hoses - Napa Part #: 36761 Banjo bolts - Napa Part #: 82698 3/16" Brake line ... 3/8"-24 To 7/16"-24 - Napa Part #: 813-5502 Wilwood 2lb residual pressure valve w/fittings - Part #: 260-3278 10 qty lug studs Dorman - Part #: 610106 2 qty plastic plugs for the knuckles (found in my parts bin) 12 qty Grade 5 - 1" fine 3/8"-24 thread bolts and lock washers Special tools recommended: Front axle nut socket. Master cylinder bleeding kit (if you pull your MC to ease the removal of the brass seat and 10lb check valve). Things to consider: You may have to get your hub machined to accept the rotor - See Post #8 (I didn't have to, but others have). New wheel bearings, seals and axle nuts & washers. Servicing your steering knuckle bearings and seals. I didn't have this issue but if your new discs rub on the caliper brackets you'll need a spacer (approx 1/8" spacer). The following has been edited to include the part number mentioned. Alternate race size as mentioned by 45es in post #36 of this thread. Enough lead in…Let’s do this. This is what started it all. The Jeep started to pull due to a leaky wheel cylinder. Remove the stubborn brake hoses using 3/8” and 5/8” wrenches. Set the “S” line aside…We’ll come back to this later…I have an idea! Use a 3/4” drill bit and enlarge the brake line bracket. Take out your grinder and remove just enough material to allow the new brake line to slip through. Perfect. To remove the hub and drums, start by removing the six 5/32” allen screws from the Warn locking cap and remove cap. Then remove the six 9/16” hub bolts. To remove the Warn setup you have to remove the snap ring from the axle shaft. Once removed you will have access to the axle nut. Warn parts...These have been cleaned and ready for lite greasing. Before you can remove the axle nut you will have to bend back the washer enough to turn the nut. Remove the axle nut and washer, then remove the final nut. Pull the hub assembly off being careful not to drop the bearings. Now remove the six 9/16” spindle nuts (toss them in your parts bin) and pull off the spindle and backing plate until you're here (pic). At this point you should inspect the knuckle grease. I used John Deer Corn Head Grease. I might just be lucky? I was able to gently but firmly knock out the wheel studs without resorting to the BFH. Les Schwab wanted $70 in labor to remove and install new studs. I did a test fit with the old studs, rotor and hub before installing the longer Dorman studs to ensure everything lined up…No problems. To install the new Dorman studs I ran the old studs through the back of the new rotor & through the hub. I used my air gun on its lowest setting to secure the rotor and hub. I then removed one stud at a time and drove them in with one hit of my BFG being careful not to bend the hub. I worked in a star pattern one stud at a time flipping over the rotor and using the impact gun on its highest setting to suck the new stud through. If you plan to use your old lug nuts you could risk flattening the tapered end.