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Front Brake Overhaul & Now Hub Rebuild Too

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Focker, Aug 28, 2015.

Page 4 of 5
  1. Sep 6, 2015
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    His pattern indicates ... two dimensional thinking.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2015
    timgr, Sep 6, 2015
    #61
  2. Sep 6, 2015
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    just the item needed for P/S conversion . mine came from a 68 wagoneer . I think . so long ago
     
    Twin2, Sep 6, 2015
    #62
  3. Sep 7, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    There's actually more room than the pic angle shows. I don't want to take on another swap...It hasn't been an issue.

    I have a power steering conversion...Steering clearances and functions have been good.
     
    Focker, Sep 7, 2015
    #63
  4. Sep 7, 2015
    WorkInProgress

    WorkInProgress Member

    Kennewick, Wa
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    From the picture it looks like the tie rod clamp bolt is hitting the other tie rod. If so I would loosen that clamp and rotate it a bit. also looks like the front tie rod nut cotter pin is actually installed above the nut and not through the nut?
     
    WorkInProgress, Sep 7, 2015
    #64
  5. Sep 7, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    Full clearance and castle nuts with cotter pins.
     
    Focker, Sep 7, 2015
    #65
  6. Sep 8, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    Ready to reassemble.
    [​IMG]

    Something I'm really contemplating now that the brake system is all torn apart is the front disc conversion. The local wrecking yard is pretty big and I should be able to get everything from them pretty cheap.
     
    Focker, Sep 8, 2015
    #66
  7. Sep 8, 2015
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    Bellevue, WA
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    If you do, make sure you take the following with you:

    Torx Drivers (Lots of the chevy hubs used them.)
    Allen Drivers (Specifically 3/8" for pulling the calipers, everything I looked at the other day had Allen head bolts for the caliper bolts)
    A decent breaker bar, or cordless impact gun, for pulling lug nuts and the backing plate nuts.
    A Hub nut socket, or at least a decent punch and a hammer, for spinning the hub nuts out of the hubs.
    Snap Ring pliers (although I was able to manage with a pair of needlenose and a couple screwdrivers)
    and the aforementioned screwdrivers or picks, to get the outer snapring out of the hubs.

    I don't recall needing anything other than a 9/16" Deep Well socket for the nuts holding the backing plates on, but I had to use a wrench as a cheater, since all I had was a short handled ratchet with me.

    Oh, and don't forget some rags, and maybe some gojo. You'll thank me later. Your call on grabbing the calipers, I did, since they were cheap enough that they'll offset most of the core charge when I buy new ones....
     
    SFaulken, Sep 8, 2015
    #67
  8. Sep 9, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    All the wheel cylinders will be here today via FedEx...However...I'm really considering the front disc conversion now. I went to the wrecking yard armed with tools but they pulled the caliper brackets for me (bonus). The only thing that worries me is he gave me 3/4 ton brackets and swears they'll work..."I've done a ton of these, shouldn't be a problem". We'll see?
     
    Focker, Sep 9, 2015
    #68
  9. Sep 9, 2015
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    Bellevue, WA
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    Hrmmmm, if the 3/4 Ton was a "Light Duty" K20, they will work. Those had the same axles as a K10, just with Heavier Springs.
     
    SFaulken, Sep 9, 2015
    #69
  10. Sep 11, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    11" rears done.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Front caliper brackets and new longer bolts with lock washers and thread locker.
    [​IMG]

    I still need to chase down a 1/2 plug (knuckle plug) with a recessed 3/8" drive. I struck out at 4 local places today.
    [​IMG]

    Test fitting the calipers...I won't be able to finish the conversion until the rotors and longer lug studs show up next week. I hammered out the old lug studs...It was super easy.
    [​IMG]
     
    Focker, Sep 11, 2015
    #70
  11. Sep 12, 2015
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    Bellevue, WA
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    Huh, the light 3/4 tons do use a somewhat different backing plate design. Mine aren't nearly so massive, they've got a thin dust shield that's tack welded on, whereas yours appears to be pressed out of a single piece of steel.
     
    SFaulken, Sep 12, 2015
    #71
  12. Sep 12, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Yeah...These are beefy...That's what had me worried at first.
     
    Focker, Sep 12, 2015
    #72
  13. Sep 12, 2015
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    McMaster-Carr ships very quickly. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-pipe-fittings/=ywku76 Take your choice of hex or square recessed plugs in several materials. Order today and it may arrive Monday.

    Worth a few extra dollars IMO. Up to you.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2015
    timgr, Sep 12, 2015
    #73
  14. Sep 12, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Looks great. Make sure you do use semi permanent, used to be blue, locktite for your spindle bolts. My caliper mount plate is of the less stout design. I think yours, if it works correctly, will be better. As far as the plug goes, I would do as Timgr suggests and use mcmaster carr or you could also grind that plug flat and cut a flat notch in it for a screwdriver with a cut off wheel.
     
    47v6, Sep 12, 2015
    #74
  15. Sep 12, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Thanks for the link.

    My solution...A plastic plug.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    - I used Loctite 243.
    - So far so good on the caliper brackets...I don't see any issues.
     
    Focker, Sep 12, 2015
    #75
  16. Sep 18, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    I've been making progress as parts arrive. I mounted the rotors to the hub (with the new lug studs) and slipped the assembly onto the spindle but the rotor is so close the caliper bracket it almost rubs. I can't install the caliper and pads. I need about 7/16" of clearance between the rotor and backing plate. I've been reading like crazy and this seems to be somewhat common but it's usually 1/8". I don't understand what's happening? I've seen changing the race as a solution but there again...It's been a 1/8" gap.
     
    Focker, Sep 18, 2015
    #76
  17. Sep 18, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Post up some pics. This may have something to do with that backer plate you're using.
     
    47v6, Sep 18, 2015
    #77
  18. Sep 18, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    This is the passenger side with the axle bearing pre load set to FSM spec.
    [​IMG]

    BTW...I ended up using a recessed plug as seen here.
    [​IMG]

    No room for the pad that rides on the piston.
    [​IMG]

    Driver's side.
    [​IMG]
     
    Focker, Sep 18, 2015
    #78
  19. Sep 18, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Yep...It's got to be the caliper brackets. They won't even fit in my 15" rim...and off center. These worried me the day I was talked into them from the wrecking yard.
    [​IMG]
     
    Focker, Sep 18, 2015
    #79
  20. Sep 18, 2015
    47v6

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    Last edited: Sep 18, 2015
    47v6, Sep 18, 2015
    #80
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