Front Brake Overhaul & Now Hub Rebuild Too

that front wheel cylinder looks suspect!.......look at it closely to see if its leaking.

 

If you are going to go with 11" brakes, better to put them on the front. Adding 11" brakes to the rear will make little difference in braking. And if your fronts need a lot of parts, now is the time ...

 

i agree with tim. 11" on the front would work so much better. and now is the time to service those knuckle seals. also maybe do the kingpins too? you may have it apart enough when you work the ball ends so might as well do it and be done for another 40 years or so.

 

you can move the 11" to the rear when you do the disc swap up front

 

It's one of things that once you are in as far as you are, You might as well do it all. Pry that rubber/steel seal out, undo the kingpin parts and clean and inspect everything. Read up on kingpin adjustment, Polish the "bells" or knuckles with some fine emery cloth, Wipe everything down with some lube of some sort and set the bearing preload, install the seal and fill the knuckle after re assembling all of the parts. Easy, isn't it? Remember to spray the bells once in a while with some sort of lube to prevent rust on them and I use about a 50/50 mix of chassis grease and 90 Wt in the knuckles. It actually looks like you have a bad wheel cylinder that contaminated your brake shoes.

 

That's why you are here, you are trying to learn something from some of us old farts and we enjoy watching what other folks are working on. Remember to put a very thin coat of something like a layer of antiseize on those brake adjuster threads. I can't tell if you have Warn Lock O Matics. A few pieces aren't in the picture. Either way, dont pack them full of grease, they need very little. A friend nearly destroyed his auto hubs on a Nissan PU after packing them full. Enjoy your weekend.

 

Pretty sure you can put the 10" backing plates on the rear. You need to size the wheel cylinders correctly, front and rear. Complete wheel cylinders for the 11" brakes are not expensive, like $5 for fronts and $3 for rears. Parts for the 10" brakes will be much more expensive, if you can find them. I would use a '72 CJ as a model for what wheel cylinders I'd use, and pick the parts for the 11" brakes from what's listed for that app.

Brake fluid from the leaky wheel cylinders.

 

Indeed. Same for the 10inchers.

The rear wheels require much less braking force than on the front, so the rear cylinders are smaller to create that difference. When you stop, almost all the vehicle weight transfers to the front wheels, and friction between the front tires and pavement is way higher than at the rear. The cylinder size difference front to rear accounts for that weight transfer.

In a panic stop, pretty much all the rear brakes do is keep the rear end of the car from coming around. And ideally, front and rear will lock up at the same time. One axle locking up while the other doesn't will also put you into a spin.

Nope. Complete new cylinders. Look at the RockAuto site. Parts for 11" brakes are cheap.

Yep, I think so ... but I'm just playing along wrt the 10inchers.

 

I have 10" brakes all around on my '67 Tux. I had no trouble finding cylinders, shoes, or the rubber hoses. However, the cylinders were something like $20 each.

 

The 11" drums up front were great when I did that to my first 2A 18 years ago. The improvement over the stock heel toe adjuster 9X1.75 was amazing.

 

I hadn't seen you in a while Focker. Good to see your still around