Floor suports and riser questions

I had a shop bend some floor supports for me . will the set up be ok? Will there be any problems later ? Need some help!!! Also the floor riser I got from CE is not flat . Beside the trans hump there is more on the driver and passenger floor ?

 

riser looks a little different . than the one in jeep . mine is flat on bottom except in middle where it has bump . but I still think it will do the job

 

Your floor supports (hat channels) look well made though, I'm not sure you have them in a correct factory position. Not sure if that matters to you or not. As long as the body mounts line up with them, I guess you'd be okay. Weld in some pieces of tubing or something, to act as a crush stopper at the body mounts or else, the hat channels may crush and bet deformed when you tighten down the body mount bolts.

I got the same floor riser panel from CE some years ago. Unless they changed the design, and why would they, it should work fine. Mine seemed heavier than the factory piece I removed but, I did not measure the thickness of the metal. Mine fit like a glove and i was very happy with it. What year is your JEEP? I used the panel on a '66 and I don't recall noticing any design difference from the factory piece other than the possible material thickness.

 

It is a 62 Dave . The hat channel is made of 14ga do you think it will crush? Also does the bolts run through the floor or are they just bolted to the hat channel ? Thanks to both of you for responding .!

 

Bolts should go through the floor and hat channel and onto the mount on the frame. Not just through the floor to the mount. That's why something is needed to prevent crushing of either the floor pan and/or the hat channel. They used to put wood blocks inside the hat channel, from the factory, to keep it from collapsing. I think now, most folks use a piece of tubing with a washer welded to the top of up, where it meets the underside of the floor pan. Or something to that effect. Maybe someone has picture of their work to share.

 

14 ga is really heavy for something like this. All the reinforcing parts like this will be made of the same material as the body skin, which is about 19 ga. Jeep would oput blocks of wood inside of the channels to keep them from collapsing under the weight of the body and passengers. With channel this thick, you should not need any filler blocks. But the mount bolts are on top of the floor steel, and you'll crush the floor steel if you don't have a filler block.

It's important that the channels pass over the where the mounts should go. You also need to keep about the same span under the body steel, so that the floors are as strong as they should be.

 

there are some shots of my new riser next to the old one I took out here, on page 2 or 3. Some others that might help as well. Tub was on a rotisserie made from the rear like 2/3 of a matching cj5 frame.

http://s299.photobucket.com/user/wheelie1054/library/Tuxedo Park resto?sort=6&page=1

 

The hat channels that I got from CE had crush tubes welded in place and they fit properly. The CE product is very well made. I'd weld in the crush tubes to be safe. DON'T use wood… it is just begging for a rust infection.

 

Thank for all of the answers . I am going to cut 1 inch tubing and weld it where bolts attach to the frame in between the floor and the hat channel . I still had the wood in the hat channels where I had some left . I first thought bubba did it ! I could not believe the factory did it till I read about the total weight limit . I think the hat channel,1inch tube and 14ga floor will hold !!!!

 

Maybe this picture will help you. I used CE Front Floor Panels, Front Floor Supports, and the Traverse Ledge Support. Oh. The Gas tank well on the drivers side is M38a1 only. I had to modify the CJ floor to add it.
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