First Jeep build! Here we go...

I am not sure that all proportioning valves are created equal. My understanding is that they are vehicle specific, so a YJ valve may not work well with your Toyota brakes. That's why an adjustable is so great, you can fine tune based on your brake setup. Maybe a valve from the vehicle the brakes were out of might be the ticket. Just something to think about.

 

So if i got a yj mc and booster then I can just use a valve from a toyota (front and rear are 7 years apart but i think they run the same drums both years) which is no big deal since I have to do some fancy stuff with my hard lines anyways...sound bout right?

 

Well, got a little work done on the pile today. Got my toyota yokes on the d300 and got my winch plate ready to mount. Also decided to fire her up since she aint run in a year, fired right up. Also took a measurent of my wheelbase....drum roll please................................................................................................92.5 inches! WOO! 9 inches of wheelbase gain. I will post up some pictures soon as I can find my cable to do so.

 

Here are some pics I took today of the dana 300 with the toyota yokes. The new yokes do not have that dust cover deal on them...will that create a problem later on? Also, i gained just over an inch of driveline length by putting these on..which I will take every inch i can for the rear.





And here is what I tried using to remove the old steering wheel...and no, it didn't work.

 

Ok so apparently as I moved my photos around on photobucket, it cut the links to the photos. Here is a couple links to all of the photos I have posted on this thread of the jeep and the build PLUS some extras. Also, here are the recent photos taken today of the tcase yokes put on.
http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i111/Mforrest327/1972%20Cj5/

 

Congrats on the wheelbase. You will notice a big difference on climbs and big rocks in the traction department. I don't know why your driveshaft is so short (or is it?) I've only got 2 inches of wheelbase on you, but my rear d/s is around 29" flange to flange.

 

mine wont be as bad as I thought. Mine will be right around there somewhere. I will be taking measurments tomorrow prob and i do know that with using a stock toyota front shaft (one with the constant on it) i will have to remove all but about 1" of the fat tube to make her fit. The dude who is making my drag link and tie rod will do the shafts as soon as I get my steering rods back. And thanks on the wb. Never had it on big rocks before since i never felt comfortable enough with it to hit them. but i do know from wheelin at the local OHV park and from my old bent up leafs that i needed some drastic changes to get it to where I would like it. Down to the finishing touches. Also will be doing a PB converstion here soon using YJ stuff...should be interesting!

 

Got a little jeep time in today. Not much but at least the front bumper is hung. Going to cut the ends down...too long. still have some welding to do to finish attatching it to the frame rails and outriggers. Had to cut my time short though.

 

There's something to be said for a well hung bumper!

 

haha. ya i think i remember hearing that somewhere. originally it had a bolt going through the top and bottom of each corner (4 total. 2 top and 2 bottom) and when the tow hitch fell on my dad while he was driving it, it ripped and broke all 4 bolts. so needless to say, i wanted more. I will have my brother in law weld up the gaps since my old buddy friend went a bit wide with the cutting torch when he notched it out for me. I will also cut the ends of the bumper down a bit. Not sure If i will just do a straight cut or if i will angle it...we shall see i suppose. and posi...you wouldn't happen to have a couple shocks layin around would ya?

 

I say angle it. Wider along the top edge and shorter on the bottom.

 

That sounds like a purdy good idea to me. Its just open C channel so wont be difficult. Hopfully the dude gets my steering rods done so he can start on my drive lines. Not going to open that con o worms on my own. Also, should be ordering my yj brake stuff so i can get that mounted up. After that....i gotta drop in the new clutch fork and she should be movable!!!!

 

Can you put that clutch fork in without pulling the tranny? It's been years but I seem to remember installing the clutch fork on my T-18 while the bell was out of the jeep, but the NP435 may be different.

 

There is enough room however the spring attatches to the fork in front of the picot ball and not behind it. So im about 99% sure that i have to pull the tranny again to get the fork in there. Thats what a lack of patience gets you. I got the new clutch installed and then bolted up the bellhousing one day and instead of waiting till the next day to start the jeep after the tranny is in, i decided to do it then. Well i completely didn't think about the fork just sitting there WITHOUT the throwout bearing installed so the fork was just resting against the preasure plate. I remembered just as i turned the key to the jeep and of course that thing had to fire up faster then it ever has before. Immediatly i turned it off but that few seconds of run time was enough to destroy my preasure plate fingers and the fork. I bent the fork back in order and then bolted everything back up but I lost the arch of the fork and now I cant get the clutch to release all the way.

 

Ok guys...I know I have asked this before in a different thread but upon searching for said forum....it has been deleted. So...I would like some pics of how you guys mounted your FRONT shocks..homemade towers and all. Got the rear figured out but need some ideas for the front. Also, is it better to have a shock bottom out upon compression or bottom out on drop?

 

please excuse the drawing...not easy to use micro paint on a laptop with your finger. Anywho, this is what I am doing for the rear shock setup on the jeep as soon as I get a hole saw to mount my tube. Tube is 1.25 tube with 3/16th thick walls. Mounting upper mount 2 inches back from center. this gives my shocks right arond 3" for up and 7" for drop.

 

Thanks Chuck, really appreciate the pics. Also like your hoops, seem like a simple yet very usable solution. Thanks.

 

Not the best picture and I just realized I have my front shocks mounted upside-down. Going to see if they'll fit turned over, tomorrow. Ooops.

 

Not the best picture and I just realized I have my front shocks mounted upside-down. Going to see if they'll fit turned over, tomorrow. Ooops. A friend of mine gave me the shock towers, I have no idea what they are off of. I made brackets for the bottom that sit on top of the spring plates and drop down with some tabs for the shock bolts at the bottom.