Fino's Sbc Build

Small steps....got it washed off and mounted on a stand....Begun disassembly....


Here is what I think I need to do for basic inspection, and hopefully re-assembly with new gaskets and a few new pieces if needed.
1) Remove VCs and inspect the valve train
2) Remove the heads and inspect the cylinder walls, rings and piston surface
3) Remove the timing cover and inspect the timing chain and gears
4) Remove the pan and inspect the bottom end

Question 1: Valve covers are removed (intake still on), anything specific I want to look at before removing the intake and heads? Leak down test?
Question 2: I expect I want to remove the heads and keep them as intact as possible...But no matter what I have to remove the rocker nut and pushrods, correct? Plus I can check to see if they are bent at all....
Question 3: Are the pushrod ends considered wear mated with the rocker arms etc - they should be kept matched with the same rocker arm, in the same orientation, and of course for the same valve etc?

 

James - do a compression test before going any further - both dry and wet after the rings have soaked for a bit. You will want to know that 'just in case' you see something in the teardown.

 

Rings have soaked, and nothing is stuck, everything is free. But I am concerned about turning it over much (by hand) without lubrication on the crank and main bearings. Should I fill the crankcase with oil - I can spin the oil pump with drill to flow oil up to through the galleys etc if needed. Finally, Its pretty easy to do a leakdown test with it on the stand (but haven't wanted to turn it by hand to close the vavles due to the above concern with lubricating the main bearings etc) but not sure how to 'crank' it to mimic a compression test....I might have to research that one a little bit.

 

I'd spin up the oil pressure - typically I do it with an adaptor I have to the pump that fits my drill. I've even plumbed in a mechanical gauge at times (and I would here too) to see what I can get it up to - usually over 10 is my target before spinning things.

 

Oh - and if you can con the wife to keep the drill going - turn the crank by hand a few times (plugs out) via ratchet on the crank to lube things on the bottom a bit.

 

Perfect....I have the drill-oil pump thingy.

 

I only have two - both OEM from different time periods. I have a 60s(?) spreadbore and a late 70s spreadbore. I am assuming the 60s one was originally on a 283, and late 70s is probably the original equipment on the 78 350. I don't know if there is any difference in the physical dimensions or routing of the intake runners - but they are pretty similar at first glance. Assuming they are the same, the 60's spread bore does not have any of the emissions tubing or EGR valve type stuff integrated into it that the 78 does, and I have an early q-jet carb without the emissions as well (they are what are on the 283 in the wagon right now) so planning to go that route I think, just to avoid some of the emissions stuff. No intention to go aftermarket, performance etc...

 

Got the intake and heads off...no obvious ridge at the top of the cylinders, and no immediately obvious issues with the cylinders that I can see so far.....here are some pictures...will get pics of the heads and valves up tomorrow...
driver bank:


passenger bank:


cylinders 2 and 4:


cylinder 3:

 

Ok - here is the passenger side head right off the block:


some carbon build-up on the valves - not sure how aggressive to be with cleaning that up by hand?


After the initial clean-up - which included warm soapy water and nylon bristle brush, and then some work with brake cleaner and a light coating of WD40:


Valves still show the carbon build-up - I don't have a big enough tub/sink to soak them in with soapy water, and not sure how much I can mechanically scrape or remove the carbon without damaging? I am not intending to take these in for a valve work unless someone see too much of an issue? Just trying to clean them up.

 

I'll look into valve seals - would have to get the valve spring compressor tool as well...somewhere in the past I've looked into valve seals and remember a bunch of discussion about 'umbrella' vs 'viton' vs 'positive etc...have to see what is appropriate for this scenario. Supposedly, there is only 12k on this engine, but there is a lot of carbon build-up - not sure if the EGR system was functioning properly - I am intending to go without one - but will run a PCV. So far, it seems like this should be a clean and put back together, but still have to see the bottom end....

 

James - I've used a brass brush and brake cleaner. You can also spray with a cheap oven cleaner with warm water in a spray bottle to clean up. Those do look more built up than I would have expected, but if the seats look good I'd just clean them up.

 

A bit more....all from #1 cylinder.
Here is this exhaust valve:


The intake valve:


and the valve seats:


I don't really know what I am looking for, other than there is quite a bit of carbon build up....will try cleaning the valves without damaging the stems...is it okay to use a powered wire wheel? Same for the valve seats? thanks