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Fino's Sbc Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Sep 25, 2020.

  1. Sep 26, 2020
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    That thar looks like a small block chebby...
     
  2. Sep 26, 2020
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I think a plan has been hatched.
     
  3. Sep 26, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    I was just replying that the easiest way to sort out the pulley/accessory bracket puzzle is to get a whole engine with everything there. Short pump or long pump, go with whatever the donor engine has.
    I'm particularly fond of 283s for CJs, and 327s for Wagons/Pickups. Any more than a 327 has too much torque where you have to start upgrading transmissions, axles, etc.
    -Donny
     
  4. Sep 27, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    you got a lead on one at a good price....
     
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  5. Sep 27, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    The distributor is still on the wrong end!
     
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  6. Sep 27, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    yup
    yup....sometimes it takes me a while to feel out the right solution, and by 'right' solution, I mean the one that works for me.....even if its a bit piecemeal....
    yup and yup...its a 350 (although I will post block numbers for confirmation when I get to work on it. For now I will be keeping the T90, but I do expect that it won't last so will have to be aware of it, and when the time comes, it will get swapped for something stronger. That will also be the time when new cross-member will be needed, and thus the whole engine placement thing can be sorted (side engine mounts included with the 'new' engine will get put to use). For now, this will 'bolt' in using the same front cradle mount and the t90j adapter etc....

    This solution really works for me as I can build the wagon in steps and also keep it driveable for good chunks of time. I will work on going through the 350 this fall and still be driving the wagon as is....there will be no time pressure or issue with having an inoperable vehicle on my street, and I can take my time and learn some engine disassembly, inspection and reassembly etc, and I can enjoy puttering around in the wagon while doing so. Then after the engine swap, i can drive it for a while, before moving on to the next step of transmission etc....

    As said earlier post, I do really like some aspects of the 283 - and if it were in good shape, I would have just kept using it. But it just doesn't seem worth putting money into a rebuild of an engine that I didn't think would ever be that great on the low end torque needed for my intended usage or interest. I do worry a 350 could be too much motor, and in a perfect world a 305 or 327 might have been better, but the price and history (hopefully) for this one was right. While the T90 is a problem, I think the D18 and D44 should be able to stand up to some use, and the D25 can be babied a bit when in 4wd lo. No intention to put traction devices in the axles, so that also helps keep from abusing them....
     
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  7. Sep 27, 2020
    73 cj5

    73 cj5 Not ready for the junkyard yet

    Clinton, Mississippi
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    Now's a good time to hop up that sbc. :sneak:

    Fwiw anything you know is a pita to do with it in the jeep, I'd try and do it before it goes in.
     
  8. Sep 27, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    it will have plenty of power as is....but yes, there are some things that need to be done when the engine is out....the list includes re-working the clutch cable system, and of course an all new clutch etc, and while a transmission rebuild would normally be a good part of that, I am hesitant to put much money into the T90. The big thing I'd like to do with an empty engine bay is to clean-up, and paint the engine bay. Also will clean-up the firewall notch that was a bit rough as riveted flashing to begin with, and that I hacked even more. Also, trim the firewall for a bit easier valve cover clearance and access to the oil pressure line fitting, and if I don't get it done before then, it will be much easier to mount the electric wiper motor when you can stand in the engine bay. Might also work on redoing the battery tray and getting a good mount to the frame.

    As for the engine, I will do a basic disassembly: remove the intake, valve covers, heads, oil pan and timing cover. Will inspect the cylinders, rings, timing chain and gears for any significant issues, as well as check the crank. Will be reassembled with all new gaskets and seals, and possibly swap over the intake, carb and distributor from the current engine. I like that I will be able to keep driving the wagon as is while I do the once over with the new 350, and then it should be a relatively simple bolt in replacement....
     
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  9. Sep 27, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    This sounds like a good plan! I too prefer my projects to only have short non-op times. Otherwise project creep means they don't run for years with me and my motivation level.
     
  10. Sep 27, 2020
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    The T90 might surprise you...its actually pretty stout in 1st and reverse. Just take care on 2nd and 3rd as they're less strong. I agree that this isn't an ideal combo, but if you take care in your use of the skinny pedal it may go longer than you think.
     
  11. Sep 27, 2020
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Yup!!! The T90 was likely overkill for either 134 and will stay together if some restraint is used with the right foot.
     
  12. Sep 27, 2020
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    What year? If I were doing this I would take the opportunity to ditch the front engine mount while this is being exchanged. More work but very worth it. Quite a few mounting kits out there. Being pre 87 your existing flywheel should be usable if it is still in decent shape. And I would also be using the headers if they clear everything-with some added insulation. I've never failed to get better mileage with headers.
     
  13. Sep 27, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    that is what I am hoping....

    It came with mounts that look a lot like the old Novak style...they look like this novak picture, although don't know if the dimensions are the same yet:
    [​IMG]
    I do want to use the side mounts, and I do want to get the engine in the right place....its the transmission part of this that might delay that. I am hesitant to go through all the cross-member and floorpan work around the T90, and then maybe have to redo all of that if the transmission gets changed.....To be determined in due time....I think the headers should fit - they are the short block hugger style. Maybe with the small primaries on the q-jet and headers and reasonable use of the skinny pedal, the fuel mileage won't be a total pig, but in some ways, that isn't too big of an issue. The tired 283 seems to be getting 12-13 mpg right now. Got to go through the engine a bit first, but the manifold has some egr/emissions tubing coming out of it that went to the q-jet - is there any significant differences in the intake manifolds otherwise? I might prefer to use the older q-jet that I rebuilt with the older manifold without emissions stuff, and with the thermal choke coil. Something I will have to check on, I would assume some larger jets might be needed for a 350 vs 283...will have to look into that. I could see putting TBI on this at some point... :rolleyes:

    I bought the engine from Chuck (Warloch) down in the springs. This is the classic 'was running when pulled, had recently been rebuilt with low mileage but got pulled due to some other issue" etc, etc, etc. Chuck had planned to use it with his son in a Scout project that they are moving on from. Its been sitting for while, but the idea (hope?) is that it shouldn't need any machine work or parts etc....hopefully just a basic disassembly, inspection and re-assembly with seals and gaskets etc. Guess we'll see as I get into it.
     
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  14. Sep 27, 2020
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
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    The Summers Brothers front drive distributor kit
    FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE (STANDARD), SMALL BLOCK CHEVY | Summers Brothers Racing

    is the only kit I like, The MSD front mount requires total mod of the engine front using their parts, but both methods are very expensive.

    If the Summers Brothers kit was even 1/2 the cost it might be worth considering....
     
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  15. Sep 27, 2020
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Tbi would be nice in an old wagon.
     
  16. Sep 28, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Trying to track down some info - feel free to correct me if I am wrong, or someone knows better....
    Casting number on rear of block is 3970010 - which is basically a 350 from 69-79
    VIN number (on front driver side) is 17K420450 - Its the 17K that is tells Chevy ('1'), 1977 ('7'), built in Ontario ('K')
    Engine Code (on front driver side) is V1001CKH - Flint, Oct 1, but don't know what the suffix CKH stands for...
    So, from what I can tell its a 1978 350 (assuming assembly on Oct 1977 would have gone into a 1978 model year vehicle?)
     
  17. Sep 28, 2020
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    block casting number ending in 010 is almost always a 4 bolt main. :sneak:
     
  18. Sep 29, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    I was told it was a 4 bolt main - but didn't check or go that deep at the time. I've heard '4 bolt main' more times than I care to relate on motors that weren't....
     
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  19. Sep 29, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    I won't turn down a 4 bolt main, but for my purposes, it isn't really going to matter whether its 4 or 2 bolt....
     
  20. Sep 29, 2020
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    Kinda like every Willys with a Chevy swap has a "Corvette " motor...
     
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