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Fino's 58 Wagon

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. Apr 19, 2020
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
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    1,450
    Ooof!!! So much want :drool;
     
    Glenn likes this.
  2. Apr 22, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    Battery tray back in - modified the base leg support (aka bent it inward) and welded it back to the frame cross-member giving more space for the radiator hose to fit on the radiator outlet...sorry not best pic...
    [​IMG]

    Also got my fabricated top of battery hold down in place and it seems like its going to work well...fans shroud clears everything nicely...
    [​IMG]

    Exhaust has to go back on on the driver side (was removed to create more access space for the MC)....then might try to add some fluids and start it back up...it can't go anywhere until tires come and get mounted....
     
  3. Apr 22, 2020
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2002
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    12,367
    Good job! (y)
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  4. Apr 26, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    Begin working on the e-brake system...its a 2 cable system: one from the pull handle in the cab to the lever and 'equalizer' that transfers to the 2nd cable that runs to both brakes. Here is my T-handle - the upper cable has a retention ball that fits into the slider, but the cable is broken that the ball.
    [​IMG]

    Here are the lever, pivot, equalizer etc all cleaned up, painted and ready to reinstall...I think I can re-use the existing lower cable that goes into the drums. I got some better diagrams and photos from the OWF with exactly how this all mounts and how the cables run etc...when I get it all done I'll post some of it up.
    [​IMG]

    While I was under there trying to find the cable clamp on the transmission cross-member - there is so much grease/dirt and gunk that trying to scrape away inches of sticky gunk (and not for the first time) finally broke me down and I decided to pull the cross-member. It has been abused and the front lip was so bent back that it is essentially impossible to reach the nuts. So after some creative determine 'will get this effing thing off' work, I cleaned the 20lbs of oiled dirt off and bent the front edge back enough on the passenger side to allow access to all the mounting holes. Not sure if I am going to work on the other side or not - but the folded back part doesn't cover any mounting holes
    [​IMG]

    Finally - this allowed me to get to the D18 torque mount and bushing....so might add a new rubber bushing mount to the parts list...This was also motivation for removing the cross-member as I could see the bolt was loose but no way to access it with out removing the cross-member...
    [​IMG]
     
    ojgrsoi, Fireball, snoobly and 2 others like this.
  5. Apr 26, 2020
    Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Silver Hill,...
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2018
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    2,698
    One thing leads to another.....I know :whistle:
     
  6. Apr 27, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
    I've been concerned about how the battery tray is mounted to both the frame and the body fender... I'd like to see how other sbc swaps handled the battery tray, as maybe there is an easy solution - but since I couldn't figure one out, I essentially kept it the way it was. I did add in rubber mounts between the tray and the inner fender to maybe help separate the different body vs frame movements and vibrations.
    [​IMG]

    Its far from ideal, but its been this way (without rubber mounts afaik) for at least 20years, and there is no fender damage that I can tell. But that got me looking at the set-up a bit more wondering how it hasn't caused damage after 20 years, but I think the reality is the batter tray is basically mounted to the fender (it moves and vibrates with the fender) and the little 1" wide x 1/8" thick flat bar support leg is in no way rigid, flexes a lot, and allow for lots of movement and vibrations of the tray with the fender. I would guess in the long run, the more likely place for damage is work hardening and cracking near the weld at the frame - I think that is where the difference in movement is occurring. But the rubber mounts can't hurt and maybe will help prolong the life of something....
     
    ojgrsoi, Glenn, Muzikp and 2 others like this.
  7. Apr 27, 2020
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    Apr 28, 2011
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    you might already know this . to remove that ball end . lift the two ratchet clips and lever will more forward and turn
    [​IMG]
     
    Glenn likes this.
  8. Apr 30, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    Small thing but lots of hassle:
    [​IMG]

    Got the D18 torque mount installed...I removed the cross member to get it out and cleanup, so its always fun getting a bent up cross member back in. Now on to finishing the e-brake.
     
    ojgrsoi, fhoehle and Fireball like this.
  9. May 1, 2020
    snoobly

    snoobly New Member

    Arvada, CO
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2020
    Messages:
    28
    Looks good man! sometimes those little fixes really help in the overall scheme!
     
  10. May 1, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    I've never been disappointed in something I have bought from Walck's, but I was a bit this time...For many common use and replace parts, I try to get my stuff from summit or FLAPS as the prices are better. Walcks generally ask high prices, but when you can't get some unique items its usually part of the price and they have always been helpful and very timely with fulfilling orders and fast shipping (actually, I sometimes wish they had a more budget shipping option), and the fit is right and the part is exactly what I expected. But this time I ordered a 'new' upper cable for the e-brake system....and I received what I think is either a lightly used salvage piece (with yellow tag), or possibly a 'rebuilt' or 'new' piece that had then been left on a shelf for years and rusted....Its not a big problem - some wire brush/wheel and some sanding its mostly cleaned up, but it certainly didn't feel like 'new reproduction' as I felt it was advertised (Cable Hand Brake Front T Handle 1954-1959 Station Wagon, Sedan Delivery).

    What I received had no rubber housing around the cable sleeve, and rusted ends...as said above, not a huge issue, just a bit disappointing...After I opened the package, I left the cable on the table and when my wife saw it, she assumed it was the broken one I took out and asked what was broken...
    [​IMG]

    Anyway, its all cleaned up now, and I put a touch of paint on the ends so they don't rust again (was probably just a bit of flash rust when in storage?)....the end ball is all that was broken on mine - I probably should have tried to see if I could just get the inner cable with ball end....I might still and try to salvage it for a back-up or pass along to someone who could use it.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. May 2, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    Made a few steps forward...and then another hiccup...
    Made a bracket to hold the lower e-brake cable and welded it to the frame - tried to mimic the one that is still on the driver side.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Got all the brake pieces (pivot arm, equalizer etc) mounted up, and got the T-handle assembly in the cab all set....But the upper cable is too long. Its not really that is too long, its that the inner cable is too long relative to the sleeve. The sleeve clamp is supposed to mount on the cross-member, but that leaves way too much wire sticking out the sleeve to operate the e-brake pivot arm...

    I'd like to to just cut off about 4-6 inches of the wire, but I don't know that I have any way to add the stop that is on the end. Is there any way to put a 'stop' on the end of a wire like this with no special tools? Maybe a local shop can do it around here? The pic is on the one I am removing - has the broken off ball on the other end - but you can see the PO kinked the wire up as it was pulled through and tied off on itself. I thought that was weird when I removed it, but now I know the PO was just trying to shorten the cable.
    [​IMG]

    Obviously, I could mount the end of the sleeve farther away from the brake arm, but there are not a lot options in front of the cross-member - i might be able to mount the sleeve clamp on a bellhousing bolt or something, but nothing is anywhere close to a good solution. arrghhh....
     
  12. May 3, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
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    6,656
    I did something similar when I shortened my clutch cable. I drilled a hole through a piece of steel I formed to act as a cable end, I used a center punch all over the sides to pinch it in place, then welded the tip to fuse the cable to the end just for good measure. That part might be tricky with a cable that small without a TIG.

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. May 3, 2020
    neohic

    neohic Gentleman Jeepist

    Woodland Park, CO
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    Mar 29, 2018
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    500
    Think a cable clamp or two would do it?
     
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  14. May 3, 2020
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    Sep 27, 2016
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    I would think something like this would work, maybe two just to be safe :shrug:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. May 3, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    wonder if I can find one for the very thin wire that is being used, and if it would pull inline or want to twist? I think its going to be a bit fidgety to get everything adjusted just right even with the right cable. Embarrassed to say it but the PO clutch cable is held together like that on both ends (although I didn't do it and throw up my hands, I was only fixing the brakes, hope you understand....). I also have another, easier (?) but more expensive solution possible - like finding the correct length cable for sale from one of the aftermarket suppliers....probably won't know much until Monday when I can talk to someone....Its a nice day out today, and technically I don't need a parking brake to drive the old willys around (just have to tie the lower cable up out of the way....Can actually put the new wheels and tires on, test the new brake shoes and MC etc....oh, and I am supposed to be writing online final exams for my seniors as those start tomorrow.
     
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  16. May 3, 2020
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    Sep 27, 2016
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    1,450
    Nice day.. I vote go drive it (y)
     
  17. May 3, 2020
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2012
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    1,427
    Those cable clamps need 2 cables in them to properly grab. You also need 2 clamps. would say it should work temporarily and they have them at any ag store. I would go ITLKSEZ route instead, that would be strongest, I feel. I would also second the idea of having one made.
     
  18. May 3, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
    I've been chasing a bad oil leak since I got this thing...it comes from somewhere along the back of the engine, and with the firewall squeezed up so tight its hard to see whats back there. Anyway, I took it for a quick brake test drive around the block and when I got back there was oil dripping out everywhere along the back of the engine and bellhousing....I've thought quite a lot of it was due to struggles with the oil filter canister and then the oil filter adapter - which was a big problem - like it used to make a puddle of oil in a few minutes of idling. Now its just a few drips every minute. Its been hard chasing the leak as the entire engine block is covered in oil and its been hard to clean it with all of the self service car wash sprayers closed, but I did a bunch of hand cleaning when under there with the brakes and think I was able to track it to the back of the valve cover - especially on the rear driver side cover....When removing the covers, the cork gaskets were dry and cracked....I think this is the one that was most responsible for the biggest leak, but other areas are certainly seeping:
    This is where I think the worst of the leak was coming from - back driver side corner of the driverside valve cover:

    [​IMG]

    the valve cover that goes in that corner:
    [​IMG]
    there were also two other smaller through cracks along the front and I think that is also causing the seepy mess behind the power steering pump (which I though might have been PS leak)....
    Here is the passenger side - its much better, but still seeping along the front and drips down onto the differential housing making a mess. This is fresh from a 10 min drive around the block:
    [​IMG]

    If new gaskets can get the oil leaking at least reasonably under control I will be very happy....
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2020
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  19. May 3, 2020
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Apr 4, 2010
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    7,110
    ?? They're open here, I just washed my Mustang this afternoon.
     
  20. May 3, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
    Denver county is still stay at home essential business only through May 8 despite statewide restrictions loosening. I could probably find some open down south in Douglas Co. I tried to go to my favorite one near my house last week to blast the cross-member but nope...
     
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