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Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Oct 3, 2014.

  1. Jul 31, 2016
    shaun

    shaun Member

    ohio, Beavercreek
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    Oct 15, 2015
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    By any chance what top and door do you have. My best top wants me to drill a hole in body and I want one like yours.
     
  2. Jul 31, 2016
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Los Alamos, NM
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    That's a Bestop Supertop and doors.
     
  3. Aug 4, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Yes its a bestop supertop with 2 part doors (which I believe is the only way they come). Dont think the gray color is available anymore.
     
  4. Aug 16, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Well...I don't have pictures loaded up yet, but I received the AA OD parts and installed to the T14/D18. Was a little tedious putting the diamond shaped washer thing in, but once I fully understood the goal it was fine - the pics I had from AA for the install where very small and blury, and when I took things apart it kind of all just fell out.
    The amount the bowl gear stuck out from the back face of the D18 was correct - IIRC without referencing the specs, its about 0.667" (I will check this number and correct if needed)- and mounted up the rest of the OD housing with gasket.

    So next up was time to install the entire T14/D18/OD into the jeep. I have only installed 4 or 5 transmissions over a lot of years and it never seems to go easy. I am using a simple transmission jack and some 'alignment studs' that I screwed into the mounting holes on the bellhousing (well technically the adapter plate that goes on the bell). One problem with this method on the T14 is that the studs cannot be very long if used on the top mounting holes as they then cannot be removed - There is only a couple inches of clearance to back them out without hitting some part of the transmission. The bottom holes have much more clearance, but it doesn't seem to work as well. So using one the the DS bottom and a short one on the passenger side top.

    The input shaft has slid through the release bearing as it should and after a lot of messing around it slid to within and inch or so of mating up. And now it won't go any farther. Guess I can't get the input shaft spline to mesh through the clutch - I did use an alignment dowel on that, and have even pulled the transmission back out to re-check with the alignment dowel. All is good...but still can't the the transmission to go the last inch. I put the transmission/TC in gear and have been turning the rear output (parking brake drum) to help - but to no help yet. Wondering if the input shaft tip is hitting the pilot bushing and that is keeping it from moving forward. The pilot pushing fits pretty darn snug on when previously test fitting.

    After working on late into the night I had to call it - got some sleep and off to work. Maybe a fresh attempt tonight and it will miraculously go together.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2016
  5. Aug 16, 2016
    montanacj

    montanacj Sponsor Sponsor

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    Sometimes taking a step backs and trying again later will help. I know using a standard jack has its drawbacks as well but you didn't mention struggling with that as much as that last inch.
     
  6. Aug 16, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Sounds like your doing all the right things.........if you have previously fitted the input shaft nipple into the pilot bearing both for fit and length and also the clutch hub splines that is all good. I like to take a little......and when I say little it's just a swipe off your finger of Anti-sezze and put some on the input shaft nipple and also a little on the splines of the input shaft...........a little of this stuff goes a long way so keep that in mind................

    Most Transmission fit up issues are all about keeping the incoming transmission at 90 degrees to the bell housing surface..........both up & down and side to side. That is where a level piece of real estate for the jack to be on is important as well as the vehicle and motor to also match the incoming transmission angle..........
     
  7. Aug 16, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Cheers fellas - transmission slipped right in today after a fresh start. I did put a couple short alignment dowels on the top holes which corrected just a slight bit of off-center to the driver side at the top. The bottom was fine with the existing dowels. Probably just missed that last night as I was tired and working with limited artificial light whereas today it was nice to work this afternoon with lots of natural sunlight coming in, and could maybe see the slight issues better.

    Anyway, good to be done with that, and got the cross-member in with no problem as well as driveshafts and a few other odds and ends. Will need to finish up the shift levers, clutch cable and adjustment, parking brake, skid plate and probably a couple other things in the next day or so - certainly the center floor pans as well. Trying not to get too hopeful that everything is going to work perfect when its time to fire it back up - but will also be crushing if something inside the drivetrain doesn't work. Its a lot of work to get things apart and back together again.

    Time for some pics as well - I have had a friend helping me the last couple days and he was also taking some photos so will add them as soon as he sends them to me.
     
  8. Aug 17, 2016
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    At the foot of...
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    That has happened to me more than once, when struggling to install a trans.
    Fight, cuss, fight, cuss, then walk away. Come back later and it falls right into place! Sometimes you just gotta take a step back.
    Hope you get it all together soon and can hit some trails before the Jeeping season is over!
     
  9. Aug 19, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Time to get some pics loaded:

    Here is getting the barrel gear and planetary assembly installed onto the T14 output shaft inside of the D18 case. Torque the nut with a 1/2" square drive to 120ftlbs I believe. That is higher than my torque wrench goes...
    [​IMG]

    Good view of how the asymmetrical flat washer/nut thingy is installed. The longer tip has to both fit in a recessed portion and between two planetary gears: In this first pic the washer is not quite properly aligned but you get the idea. And don't forget the snap ring afterwards.
    [​IMG]

    Putting on the oiler thingy on the OD housing and checking it multiple time to make sure I got it in the correct orientation.
    [​IMG]

    Installing the OD housing with mainshaft/sun gear etc into the barrel gear and onto the back of the D18.
    [​IMG]

    Putting on the rubber block cross-member mounts
    [​IMG]

    Just the bellhousing with T14 adapter plate
    [​IMG]

    Getting the transmission started - using alignment bolts with hex head cut-off. Had to shorten these quite a bit more than shown.
    [​IMG]

    Finally success the next day after giving up for the night originally.
    [​IMG]
     
    47v6 likes this.
  10. Aug 19, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Now that those pics have been posted - I actually made some more progress tonight. Got the shift levers installed for all three components, the cable clutch, nut adjuster and so hooked up to the fork and (hopefully) properly adjusted, the parking brake cable routed and connected and put fluid in the gearboxes. Also put a wrench on anything that I messed with. Waiting overnight on the top gasket of the T14, and might actually try to start it and see how it goes tomorrow. May need to put in at least a bit of the floorpans.
     
    47v6 likes this.
  11. Oct 1, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Well - as many of you know I finished up the transmission and TC rebuild but had some funny noises coming from the crank area when the clutch was depressed. After not being able to figure out the noise, and driving it around town a bit, I took it out for a day trip and it came back on tow. Turns out I have some wasted crank main bearings, and it looks like the crank was thrusting way too far forward. I posted a couple of these in a tech thread, but going to repost them here as this is my archive and documentation page:

    2nd main with heavily worn thrust edges:
    [​IMG]

    3rd main bearing cap with a 'machined' out section from grinding against the crank:
    [​IMG]

    3rd main lower shell:
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Oct 1, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    So an engine rebuild is now on order. I am getting ready to pull out the engine myself: Think I have just about everything disconnected and removed that needs to be. What I am not sure about is where/how to connect the chain to my engine. I still have the intake manifold on - assume that shouldn't matter for now. I have a cherry picker type crane/hoist. I have some extra short lengths of chain (some trailering safety chains) that should work well and connect to the hoist hook. Just need some help with where to connect the chains. I assume I can bolt through the chain link and use a large strong washer washer. Just not sure where to bolt to.

    Here is a pic - anything I am forgetting....should I also pull the fan and water pump first. I may be going a bit overboard with removing stuff first, but most of them come off pretty easy and want to have as much margin for error as possible. I am planning of leaving the transmission and TC in place - will just remov the bellhousing to block bolts.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Oct 1, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's what I do, I know things and I fix stuff. Staff Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    They sell a bracket/with a ring that screws on where the carb mounts. It's easy and about $10.
     
  14. Oct 1, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    montanacj likes this.
  15. Oct 2, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    I would be leery of that on this particular engine as I have seen the carb mount threads in the intake in bad condition before, actually in all the ones I have.

    As far as pulling the engine, Tarry has the idea. The heads are the same on either side, so the threaded holes on the front are the same on the back. You can buy the special chain or just use a chain with a washer and a bolt through a link and into the head diagonally across the engine. If you can't get to the back of the engine, pull out an intake bolt closest to the rear of the engine. Whatever you do, make sure its minimum 3 turns in.
     
  16. Oct 2, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's what I do, I know things and I fix stuff. Staff Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    Know I mentioned the carb bracket, but I didn't remove my carb at the time. I used the exhaust manifold holes. You could remove the valve covers or stuff towels between them and the chains to avoid possible damage. I used towels after the engine was painted.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Oct 3, 2016
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    James - I'm home now - Free this weekend if your still thinking of bringing it here to pull things. Also still have the stand and picker for you to use if you want...
     
  18. Oct 3, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Thanks Chuck - for now I am going to try pulling it out here at the house - got my hands on a cherry picker that I can use for a while. I don't have an engine stand, although some friends in the local 4x4 group have offered theirs as well. Even after I pull it, I will still have to determine how much of the rebuild I am going to do, and how much I might have done at engine/machine shop. Obviously that would cost more than just the machining, and its a shop doing the work (which could be better or worse than me doing it), but may still be a better cost-benefit for me at this time. I really interested to rebuild an engine...but also have some house improvement projects going on that are priority (and have been planned from before the engine died). hmm...TBD. Got to get it out first anyway. Although rebuilding this engine will probably cost a good chunk of what the jeep is worth, I am also glad it doesn't really have monetary value that I could seriously damage (such as a classic hot rod). If I eff it up...well its just an old jeep and can do it again.
     
  19. Oct 5, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Got it out! It was a tight squeeze getting the engine up and out with the front grill on. Will probably remove it before re-installing the engine. Also, if anyone ever suggests to me that its easier to remove the engine rather than the transmission and TC in order to access the clutch etc...I won't believe it. I hope I can get the damn thing back in without damaging the transmission input shaft. I might still remove the transmission etc before re-installing the engine. But I do think it will be a lot easier to come on it straight on from the front without the front grill on.

    If your local to colorado...Anyone know much about Spitfire engine builders? Chatted with them this week about my projects as well as western engine last week. Progress continues...

    forgot to include the pics! Its a bit of a celebration that I got this thing out all by myself...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Oct 5, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Looks Good............glad you got it out...........looks like the HF Cherry Picker did it's job once again!
     

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