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Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Oct 3, 2014.

  1. Mar 20, 2019
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2007
    Messages:
    488
    This puller by OTC on the left should get those off. As 45es mentioned... perhaps Northridge has one and they could pull the bearings for you ??
    OTC #4520
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Mar 20, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2017
    Messages:
    535
    Tough to tell from the pic, but the hooks/teeth on those puller jaws look a little short and chubby. The puller slots in James' carrier are very narrow and may require a puller with longer sharper teeth to get in there. I used one like this from Snap-On and it was still a tight fit...


    Another option if there is no intention of saving the bearings is to cut the cage, remove the rollers and use a bearing splitter to grab the top lip of the inner bearing race. As mentioned, a local machine shop will likely pull them for you for not too much money, but they won't likely commit to saving the bearings.
     
  3. Mar 20, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Member

    Cottonwood, Ca
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2014
    Messages:
    861
    You spent basically $1k on the e locker. You use your jeep regularly. $120 for both axle bearings with seals, Richmond Excel complete pinion and carrier set with shims, seals, rtv, paint, is $76. You take the whole shebang to a shop and give the guy $100 to press everything on. For $300 more you get a brand new axle and piece of mind. I'm willing to bet that if you reinstall the axles without addressing the seals, you will have a leak before our rubicon trip is over......... :shrug: I know that it would happen to me.....
     
  4. Mar 20, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2017
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    535
    I tend to agree, but I also can't leave well enough alone. Parts are relatively cheap when you have something all apart. Wheel bearings for the flanged 44 can be had on RockAuto for $23 per wheel (Timken Set10 comes with bearing, race and locking ring). FWIW
     
  5. Mar 20, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    1,910
    don't worry - they already leak as is...:beer:

    the sad part is, literally there is nothing that doesn't leak on this old junk and I've given up trying to stop it. The oil pump leaks, the rear main seal leaks, the coolant is still leaking from somewhere, the front knuckles leak, the D18 leaks out both outputs and the pan gasket, the rear pinon leaks, the passenger rear axle seal leaks, gas leaks...I am probably missing a few as well...It used to bother me but now I just drive it to forget it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2019
    73 cj5, 3b a runnin and Rich M. like this.
  6. Mar 20, 2019
    neohic

    neohic Member

    Woodland Park, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2018
    Messages:
    79
    Jeep life. I get worried when mine STOPS leaking!
     
    Buildflycrash likes this.
  7. Mar 28, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    1,910

    I was looking at the Richmond gear with Timken bearings kit (83-1033-1) and it seems to indicate it doesn't fit the 1970/71 cj5 application (30 spline axles - not sure if there is a difference with anything regarding the bearing etc, but just want to make sure)...I am assuming that is because jeep applications are never correct in the catalog archives etc... But before I order this, I wanted to make sure I am ordering the correct kit...thanks

    EDIT - after going directly to the Richmond gear website, the XL 1033 and 83-1033-1 kits do appear to be the correct ones....thanks
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2019
    txtoller likes this.
  8. Apr 1, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    1,910
    Back home...made my yoke wrench tonight...need a bit more hardware to hold it in place...had some flat scrap 3" x 3/16". Its o only a little over a foot long...can weld a better and longer handle on it if needed.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    tomorrow can hopefully pull the pinon and/or modify a 2 jaw puller to fit into the slots for the side bearings. Hope I can get this back together....
     
    Bowbender and Fly Navy like this.
  9. Apr 1, 2019
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Southern Oregon
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
    Messages:
    472
    Do you have a link or a part number for us?
     
  10. Apr 2, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2017
    Messages:
    535
    Easiest way I have found to remove the pinion is to take an air chisel with a pointed tip (once the nut is off of course) and drive the pinion down through the case. This will remove the yoke and outer bearing all in one shot. You may have to do this several times while setting pinion bearing preload and getting your pinion depth/tooth pattern correct. Air chisel and set of tips is cheap at Harbor Freight.

    Air Impact Hammer Kit
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2019
  11. Apr 2, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    1,910
  12. Apr 2, 2019
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Southern Oregon
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
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    472
  13. Apr 2, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    1,910
    After using my yoke wrench, impact socket, heat and some aggression to get the pinon nut off, I put a small puller on the yoke to remove it:
    [​IMG]

    After removing the yoke I used a drift to drive out the pinon gear:
    [​IMG]

    Although I don't have picture - I drove the outer pinon bearing out from inside the case, pushing the seal and oil slinger with it.
    Next up was getting the pinon bearing races out - the first one was a PITA. As there are two races, I couldn't fit the appropriate race driver through either race to drive the other one out. So I had to drive the first one out with a drift on the small little exposed lip of the race:
    [​IMG]

    Then I was able to drive the second race out with a driver:
    [​IMG]

    A completely empty case - starting doing a bit of cleaning:
    [​IMG]

    All the pieces: I now have to measure all the different spacers/shims - both the ones between the pinon shaft and housing and the ones between the races and the housing.
    [​IMG]
     
    47v6, Bowbender, TIm E and 1 other person like this.
  14. Apr 3, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    1,910
    I haven't had much time to review installation of the pinon....focus for the next couple days...but thinking:
    1) I first need to drive in the new bearing races. Just to ask, is there a difference between the inner and outer pinon bearing (is one slightly bigger?). I am going to measure and replace the pinon depth spacer rings that were 'under' the races....these cannot be easily changed once the race is driven in (would need to remove and possibly damage the race) so I guess I assume using the exact same amount of spacer rings will work? Guess this is the one that would be much harder if I were setting this up from scratch...I have no way to check pinon depth other than to install the case and check gear pattern. Here's to hoping its all the same...
    2) Then I can press on the new inner bearing onto the pinon and install into the housing and tap on the new outer pinon bearing.
    3) Then I will be ready to put on the the pre-load shims - again, I will measure the old spacer and use the same amount with new spacers
    4) Put on yoke (but no seal or slinger) and tighten down pinon nut...check for rotational torque measurement.

    Questions:
    1) I saw in metalshaper's video that his new bearings and old bearings were slightly different in thickness....I am replacing the existing Timken bearings with new Timkens - so hopefully that won't be an issue. But I think its probably worth a quick check with the micrometer to make sure everything is the same? If its not, I might have to adjust the amount of preload shims? Guess will cross the bridge if we get to it...
    2) Is there a special tool for measuring rotational torque? Or can I use a normal torque wrench (that works for the range of 10-20 inch-lbs)?
     
  15. Apr 3, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2017
    Messages:
    535
    If you ordered the Richmond Gear diff rebuild kit, it will have all the bearings and shims you need (shims, nut, washers, etc. are vacuum packed under the bearings/races). Your pinion depth is set by the shims under the inner pinion race, there should be NO shims under the outer/front race. When you press on your new inner pinion bearing, just make sure it is fully seated, then going with the same thickness of shims under the inner race should get you very close to original if not spot on. Pinion preload is set with the small diameter shims that go on just PRIOR to installing the outer/front bearing cone. Usually you can tap the outer/front bearing on a bit, then pull it on with the yoke/nut. You will need to use a dial or beam-type torque wrench that measures in in/lbs (clicker type won't be accurate).

    Something like this works well...

    Titan Tools 23140 1/4 in. Drive Beam Type Torque Wrench 802090231407 | eBay

    Yes, there is a difference in the inner/outer pinion bearing, the bore is larger on the inner bearing that goes against the gear. Just keep track of which race goes with which bearing cone when you open the kit.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
    FinoCJ likes this.
  16. Apr 3, 2019
    melvinm

    melvinm Member

    Arvada Co. 80003
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2012
    Messages:
    72
     
  17. Apr 4, 2019
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2007
    Messages:
    488
    For what its worth...you can use a length of wood lath and a fish scale to check the rotational torque pinion bearing preload value. I prefer to use this method because my scale has a hold feature and I can view the recorded value easier than watching the scale on a torque wrench as it spins in circles.
    That being said...your younger eyes may not have any issues with watching the torque wrench scale graduation marks :).
    Also, you may want to consider drilling and tapping the carrier for a drain plug while you got things apart.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Apr 4, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    1,910
    thinking about that....I have to drill a hold in through top of the carrier for the locker wire to go through...might as well drill one on the bottom for easy draining.
     
  19. Apr 4, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    1,910
    Made some more progress...little by little...
    Got the 3 remaining bearings pulled off - the 2 side bearings on the case and the inner pinon bearing on the pinon gear shaft :bananatool:. Used a bearing splitter on a puller set-up (and a little heat):
    [​IMG]

    used my yoke wrench to protect the top end of the pinon from the puller screw drive - it was all I had handy :oops: .
    [​IMG]

    Also swapped out the stator ring that had the broken stop tab on the new eaton locker:
    The broken tab:
    [​IMG]
    Just have to remove the snap ring and lift top and stator ring off to replace:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Time to measure all the different shim thicknesses....and then try to get the inner pinon bearing driven on the pinon shaft and inner pinon bearing race with the appropriate spacers under it for pinon depth.
    Thanks Tim - you are correct...I did have to go double check.
     
    OzFin and TIm E like this.
  20. Apr 5, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    1,910
    Tim has generously offered his set-up bearings to help me test the fit of the new case (many thanks)....and hopefully we can make that work....but just because I like to do research, anybody have a good option for where to get set-up bearings? This is the best one I have found:
    Dana 44 - Bearing Set-Up Kit
     
    Rubicloak likes this.

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