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Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Oct 3, 2014.

  1. Dec 2, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Thanks - I intend to drop the the bumpstop down a bit and protect both the spring from over flex as well as protect my fender from my tire. That also meshes nicely with the range of travel for the shocks I am looking at. I can find shocks that have 8 inches or so of total travel - and the midpoint is just about right for my current height for 4" up and 4" down. Setting the bumpstops lower will also keep the shocks from maxing out compressional travel.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  2. Dec 2, 2017
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Typically when you buy a lift "kit" it will include shock absorbers that are longer than the original shocks by about the height of the lift. In that case, they intend for you to extend the bump stops by about the amount of lift to keep the shocks from bottoming before the bump stop is reached. You can measure the distance between the shock pins, the length of the collapsed shock, and the distance between the fully compressed bump stop and axle to determine whether the bump stop is low enough.

    I have never heard the story about over-extension of the springs. I know that many times the upper shock mount is raised so that the maximum axle travel can be achieved using longer shocks. The Jeepster race cars I recall had shock mounts that extended something like a foot above the (heavily reinforced) frame, and used with long Koni racing shocks with ball studs like a tie rod at the top end. I don't recall anything special about the front springs, except that they were installed with trailing shackles.
     
  3. Dec 2, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Tough to see much bump (up) travel in a conventional arced lift spring unless it's something like a Holdbrook long leaf ...........or a custom YJ type flatter spring, but in either case it's still hard in a CJ to make much room above the tire so it does not hit .............plan on more droop travel than up when setting bumps and positioning shocks........you'll gain much more there.
     
  4. Dec 2, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    I just spent some time wondering if this was the case - been using jacks to flex to get the springs to both move up and droop. At rest, the shock mount distance is 18 inches - so if the shocks have 8.5" of travel, it looks best to have a little less up travel and a little more down travel - one that allows for 3.5 inches up and 5 inches down would be perfect. Not sure if I can find that exactly, but gives me a good target.
     
  5. Dec 2, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    Aug 13, 2015
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    This might be common sense, so forgive me, but if your shock limits the up-travel at 3.5", it's vital that you mount your bumpstop so it limits your up-travel at 3" max. Allow for a little wiggle room and extra movement through articulation. You never want the shock to bottom completely. (This includes during an accident-avoiding-panic-situation where you hop a curb, or whatever.) Your shock mounts will lose that battle.
     
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  6. Dec 2, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Agreed!
     
  7. Dec 3, 2017
    RATTYFLATTY

    RATTYFLATTY I think you need a little more throttle

    Central MN
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    Oct 23, 2007
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    What if you were to cut the top ears if the chip off? You still have the sides and a full clip to keep the springs aligned.
     
  8. Dec 3, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    I have a set of shims coming from Mcruff which may provide a half inch or so an the steering linkage - I need the shims to get correct caster as I am right around 0 currently, but getting some steering linkage clearance is just an added benefit. That plus whatever I can shave or cut off of the top ear (on that one side) will probably be enough. If not - then maybe a tie-rod flip.
     
  9. Jan 17, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Between the holidays, a couple work trips up to Montana and waiting on some parts and pieces here and there...I finally got everything back together.

    I cleaned up and painted the spring plates, new shims from Mcruff and got new U-bolts for the D27 from a local shop here (Denver Spring and Suspension) since the kit was for a 72-75 D30. I put on new shocks on the front that are appropriate length - my old ones were way too long (from when the POs shackles were much longer), and the shock would bottom up after only a couple inches of up travel. I also got a new steering stabilizer shock - and moved the entire set-up above the 1-piece tie-rod. Clearance of this thing is really tight around the front cover of the differential whether above or below - so I went above to keep it clear of incoming rocks etc off road.

    Here is the front with the BDS 2.5" kit and McRuff's shims installed - in addition to caster improvement, the shims help raise the tie-rod up and create more clearance above the top of the leaf spring. Additionally the shackle orientation has the bottom end nicely in front of the top frame mount (as shown in the above pics with test fitting):
    [​IMG]

    The steering stablizer set-up:
    [​IMG]

    Of course, after getting this all good to go, I find the front body mount on the bottom of the front grill has popped all the spot welds and was in two pieces:
    [​IMG]
    This piece:
    [​IMG]

    After welding that back together (no pics - my welds were ugly - but at least it on the underside and behind the radiator), I got the grill and repaired radiator (from back in November when it cracked on the way to Moab) back in.
    [​IMG]

    Here is the front ready to go - I believe this should be enough clearance. I lost about 1/2" or a bit more with the BDS vs whatever was on there. I would suspect they will settle down a bit more over time and use as well. As long as they clear my 33s while also flexing its good with me.
    [​IMG]

    From a short drive around the block mostly to get the engine temp up and flow coolant to test the radiator etc, it does seem to ride smoother. I have a bit of curb I drive over while turning to get to my driveway and it usually bumps and rocks the jeep quite a lot for what it is...seemed way better today. Even if its just a placebo affect I will take for now. With the caster shims, I find the steering a bit more resistant, but the front wheels definitely like to self straighten/re-center after a sharp turn whereas I used to have to turn it back to center when coming out of a turn. I do seem to have a bit of a pull to the right now, but most of the roads around my neighborhood are highly crowned so it might just be the road - need to get out on open stretch of flat blacktop.

    Maybe I will drive it to work tomorrow...
     
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  10. Jan 27, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Small little new project I am working on...going to cover the dashboard radio hole with a cover plate. But I wanted to make something useful with the cover plate and needed a USB charger. So that is going on the plate as well as a 2 speed switch (SPDT) for what I hope will be an auxiliary heater unit that I will get installed at some point. For the USB charger - it has two ports that both charge at 2.1 A and it will have an on/off switch to its left as it will have 12V supply from a small fuse box I have on the firewall (from PO). I think it will be nice to have a charger for phone/camera etc. I didn't search all that hard, but the local hardware stores I am close to only had a few SPDT switch - so the low fan speed will be down, high fan speed up and off in the middle.

    Here is what the dash looks like:
    [​IMG]

    My new cover plate getting close to ready for paint:
    [​IMG]

    Need to begin thinking about how to mount the heater up under the dash....
     
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  11. Jan 27, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Pretty much using Focker's idea here....
     
  12. Jan 28, 2018
    Focker

    Focker Ran when parked... Runs while moving. Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    You have me wanting to redo mine with metal. :oops:
     
  13. Jan 29, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    What did you make it out of - plastic? I don't remember the pic all that well - maybe its in your build thread, I haven't look there yet.
     
  14. Jan 29, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Here is my home-fabbed aux heater bracket tacked up to see if its going work. It will have 2 flat mounts on the top of the lip at the bottom of the dash (re-using existing holes from PO), and one that will go to the firewall for rear support. The four tabs will attach to the heater. I am only using one rear mount to minimize new holes drilled into the firewall (keep it to one), and other side would be more complicated as the firewall curves a bit, and I need some room to route hoses up to it (using the POs holes that I currently have plugged). I think the 3 mounts should be good - its not that heavy.

    ps- you can see I somehow measured the gap between the firewall and dash wrong (3 times by the way) by about 1/2" short. I had to cut the bracket and add in a short extension and then had to open up the front mount hole:banghead: I almost want to make it over now with exact correct dimensions - but I think I'll just clean it up a bit and paint it - its hard to see up behind the dash and mounted to the heater.

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Jan 29, 2018
    Focker

    Focker Ran when parked... Runs while moving. Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    Yes
     
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  16. Feb 3, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    After seeing how Julius mounted his heater (Auxiliary Heater Install) I decided to make some improvement to my mounting design. I decided to move the in cab, behind the dash heater forward against the firewall so the inlet/outlet ports can go through the firewall into the engine bay for easy hook-up to the hoses.
    Here is the new bracket - it needed a second mount point on the firewall to support the heater in the new location:

    [​IMG]
    Here is how it attaches to the heater:
    [​IMG]

    Here is how it will mount under the dash (photo taken with glove box out):
    [​IMG]

    Now I just need to figure out how to drill the holes in the firewall exactly where the heater inlet/outlets are and then I can paint and finalize the wiring.
     
  17. Feb 6, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    More progress - got the heater inlet/outlet holes drilled through the firewall - so the hose connections can take place in the engine bay:
    [​IMG]

    Here is how the heater will fit inside the cab behind the dash.

    [​IMG]

    Got a couple mount holes for the bracket to drill and then need to paint the bracket. Might get this heater ready to roll for summer...
     
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  18. Feb 24, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Finally got this heater project finished - I think.

    Painted the bracket and got the heater mounted in the cab - had to drill two more holes in the firewall to mount the bracket, but I used two existing holes on the bottom dash lip. The mount is very solid.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is how the hoses mounted. I like having all the hoses in the engine bay and not in the cab, and the connections in the engine bay. For now - mostly due to ease of hose routing - I have the water flow going into the auxiliary heater and then out and into the OEM heater and then back into the block. Its all hooked up in series.
    [​IMG]

    I do have a inline valve and choke cable pull that I intend to insert into one of the hoses to that will stop flow of hot water into the heaters from inside the cab - haven't exactly decided where to mount it or how necessary it will be. I am just concerned that in the summer, I don't want any additional heat coming into the cab via the auxiliary heater core.

    Wired all the electrical into the the SPDT switch (down is low, up is high, middle is off). I forgot how quiet this fan is compared to the OEM - and hopefully will put out more heat. The OEM heater will be dedicated for defroster only. That also finalized the radio delete plate with the additional USB charger and switch with LED.

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. May 24, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Want to keep my build thread complete so linking in another thread here. Built some rocker protection...most of you have already seen it...assuming this thread won't delete or get purged as its in the builds forum?

    Rock Slider Ideas
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2018
  20. May 24, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
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    Installed a hand throttle. Did this last week before heading up to Chinaman's - really helps with carburetor and manual transmission. I used the Teraflex kit - its specifically designed for a TJ or something but is pretty universal. Essentially I wanted the pull lever/cable and it has a couple of different cable holders/mounts for the throttle end of the wire. I ended up using a random old strip of metal I had laying around as a bracket - its held onto the intake manifold using one of the manifold bolts. I used one of the included 'hollow' bolts that allows the wire to go through it, but also has a 'seat' on the inside that holds and secures the wire housing. After measuring and estimating multiple times, I cut the wire to length and crimped on an eyelet to the end of the wire to connect it into my throttle linkage on the carb. Using some washers and nut on the hollow screw, you can 'micro' adjust the tension so that the hand throttle lever is well adjusted. I really liked having it on Chinamans.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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