Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by jeepstar, Dec 11, 2018.
so smart....i thought you were saying to use the silicone that you use on a window...
i use permatex "the right stuff" for anything like that diff covers and whatnot. never had a leak. you might as well get a tube your gonna need it. My brothers shop uses it too and thats all they've ever used
just had an epiphany....going to detach the cab and just set it back where the bed used to be. then the cab wont be outside in the elements, i have easy access to the engine, and im really not taking up any more space in my shed, and i can attempt body work as time and weather permits.
Cab is off. Motor spins freely.
Fsm arrived today as well
so, after a 5 hour cutting and wrenching marathon after work yesterday, i was able to remove the cab. all i did was roll it back onto the frame, over the box area. NO BROKEN GLASS!!
hopefully this weekend i can get some of my derelict friends over to help me move it out onto a hay wagon, where i can store it outside, out of my way, and just tarp it over the winter.
since its December, and too cold for frame painting, and i have the water in my shed turned off for the year already so i cant pressure wash it, i will spend my time patiently scraping the accumulated crud off of anywhere i can, wire bush things, replace what i can and what i need to, in order to have a running rolling chassis.
had to cut the door hinges off. sad to say, but the screw weren't budging. they were too rusted into the body, and door side. i tried drilling them out, but that worked on 2. so i cut them. didn't want to, but i had to.
the snow plow was going to stay on because it was tied to the frame, and it was a nice tow point, if nothing else. now that i have 100% access to the frame, it is coming off.
the overall setup is very much like a CJ, the main difference is the radiator location and the fill location.
frame is in excellent condition. there are no cracks around the leaf springs, or anywhere else. there is mild surface rust, but that's to be expected from a 60 year old vehicle.
over the winter, i plan on the following:
1. electronic distributor
2. replace the oil air bath filter for a K&N paper filter, like i did on my other two cjs with the 134 motor.
3. new plugs and wires have been ordered, just need some time to install them.
4. replace the generator with a modern alternator
5. pick up a new wire harness
6. clean and paint any small items (shifter knobs, body panels, etc) up in my house-attached and heated garage. see how much stuff i can stuff in there before the wife says WTF
7. new shocks
found a box/bed local to me, about 15 minutes north, in manitowoc county, for 300 bucks. way better shape than the 400 dollar one that was all cut up in Indiana, and about in the same condition as the 1000 dollar one in southern Iowa.
this guy bought it 15 years ago for 300 dollars, and then put it in storage. he took it out to send me a picture, but said said he will put it back in his shed for anything under 300 dollars. im not going to argue or haggle. going to get it sometime between after xmas and new years.
cab...i feel it is a lost cause. i have no english wheel, or any other body working tools other than a welder. I do have two friends that assure me they can salvage the cab, and bring it back to life safely without fiberglass or bondo. while i trust them, my father in law is looking to retire come march, and he offered to mule me back an FC from anywhere in the country, because he is looking for a road trip adventure. so i am mildly actively searching for a rust free cab in the southwestern US.
the doors are a main point of concern for me. there is a limiting strap and it is prone to failure, so the doors open too far and get a large vertical crease where they hit the body. FC doors in modest shape are more rare than the coveted tilting CJ windshield, im finding out.
there may be an end in sight, but i just dont see it anytime soon. overall, ive got about 350 dollars tied up in this thing so far. if it all goes south tomorrow, at least i can proudly say that i have owned an FC.
if there is any progress, i can and will post it. i also have a full service manual for the complete line of FC 150's and 170's so if anybody has any questions or need some pages scanned and sent, i would be happy to assist.
till spring time folks, thanks for looking!
New coil, plugs, wires, carb rebuild kit and ballast resistor came in today
I'd love to go back in time and be a fly on the wall when they were designing them.
They probably rolled a complete bodiless CJ chassis into a room and started throwing sheetmetal at it until they figured out what fit and what didn't.
Here is a possible cab...sell off the axles to pay for most of it....
I'd drag it home in a heart beat at that price
That front axle is bringing $1k minimum around here.
Guessing the add expired....if the add pops back up I will repost. Its been for sale for a long time.
You have more dedication than I do. I would have scrapped the T90 top cover after using it for a pattern on a piece of 1/8" steel or alloy plate. Its a shame you cut your door hinges. They are hard to find intact. The screws seldom come out, but the trick is to drill the center of the phillips head, drilling out the shank of the screw. This way you still have the hinges intact. I still need a pair of door hinges for one of mine.
If you end up with extra door parts, keep me in mind! I have a pair of door shells, but no window frames, trims, or regulators, or latch assys.
These FC trucks are uncommon, but there are essentailly none in south Florida! At least you are finding parts around your area.
I love the progress so far. Eat an elephant one bite at a time.
Alternator is mounted
One more bite of the elephant. Starter #16224 from a Toyota. Easy peasy install. For sanity sake, I highly suggest an Allen head bolt to replace the stock bolt on top. That was the absolute worst part of the install.
Question 1: is the forward belt running the cooling fan from a pulley down a shaft through a tube...?
And B: Did you have to egg out the mounting holes on the starter?...I haven't installed my Toyota starter yet...but it appears i will have to ream the holes more than i thought i would have to
A minimal amount. Use a half inch bit, and slightly elongate the holes towards the outside. I did both holes equally.
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