F134 stalling problem?

I am having a problem with the F134 engine stalling when I come to a stop. I can drive the jeep at 40-45mph when I slow down to stop it starts sputtering and hesitating then stalls. I haven't had any luck trying to fix the problem my timing is set to 20 inches of vacuum and the idle speed is set to 850rpm. Could it be a fuel mixture problem? I also rebuilt the carburetor two years ago using a highgrade kit.

 

My old Nova used to do that. I don't remember the exact problem but my granddad reset the float level in the carb and it ran great after that.

 

Yes, could be over-rich and or flooding. The excess fuel is not a problem at higher rpms, but is too much at idle.

Possibly crud in the float needle valve, or some other carb problem, such as accelerator pump diaphragm, leaky float, etc.

 

Well I readjusted the float come to find out it was set to hi. After I readjusted the float I test drove it and now it's worse than it was. Looks like its time for a rebuild kit.

 

Yeah ... disassemble and clean your carburetor. Also, change your fuel filter. I once had similar issues to yours that I traced to dirt getting into the carburetor from a bad fuel filter. Once everything was cleaned, everything ran great.

 

I disassembled the carburetor and cleaned it then went for a test drive and it stalled on me three more times again. I made it home and found the glass bowl on the fuel pump to be empty. When I pulled the glass bowl off there was pressure on the bowl but not fuel. I reinstalled the bowl and cranked and restarted the engine and the bowl filled up. I think I might have a vapor lock issue since I had to put the side exhaust back on to run the pto drive shaft. The old exhaust runs over the frame and threw the fender well and under the drivers side of the vehicle. I'm going to make a new pipe and put some heat wrap tap on it.

 

Put some heat tape on the fuel line or wrap it in tinfoil and try that for a temp test. You could also replace the line with a piece of rubber and run it way out of the way. Can you drive it with the gas cap loosened and see if that helps? Does it stumble when you let off the gas each time you shift? That would mirror the slowing situation. If it does then could be float adjustment or fuel pickup tube in tank with low fuel. Just guesses.

 

Well I tried making a heat shield to cover the fuel line and I'm still having trouble with stalling. The only thing that could be left is the fuel pump diaphragm is torn and letting air into the fuel system. Are there single action fuel pumps for 1957 F-134 engines?

 

Yes there are. I bought glass dome reproduction from walcks4wd.Com and you may or may not need a pump spacer.

 

Thanks I found a auto tune #572 pump on ebay which is the same as a AC #572 pump. The good thing is walcks sells rebuild kits for these.

 

Well that didn't fix a thing it is still stalling out when coming to a stop. I have no clue what is wrong with it now. I don't know here to go.

 

Basic tune up to specs is the first step, for any valid diagnostic process.

Points and timing are always first. I would check, clean, and/or replace plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor.

Then look into fuel supply (too high pressure at carb?), carb mixture, vacuum leaks, etc.
A leaky or incorrect float needle valve is a possibility. Leaky accelerator pump diaphragm may be another (and it is very common for folks to lose the check-balls when rebuilding a YF).

Are the plugs black/sooty immediately after stalling?

 

It doesn't have points it has a pertronix conversion. I idles great when it is first cranked up, it accelerates great with no flat spots. I have already gone back through the carb and found the accelerator pump to not torn. I haven't had a chance to check the plugs after it stalls because I'm to busy pushing it out of the road so traffic can get by. But it starts back up and runs like nothing is wrong after it stalls out.

 

Could be the coil heating up.

 

I had a problem with my 134 and some told me the accelerator pump, in fact this filter on the carb was full of herbs, I cleaned it and now the engine works perfect;
Also I repositioned better the ignition turning the delco more to right (contrary of a clock) and I am surprised to have a Jeep with more than perfection. Yes, it is possible!

You can see this working on the engine easily, not useful to run on the road to check.

 

How's the plug wires? I had a cracked coil wire once that drove me to howling at the moon.

 

The plug wires are two years old I replaced them when I replaced the cap and rotor and did the pertronix conversion.

 

Check the coil wire anyway, it costs nothing to look. I dumped a pile o' money into trying to fix my old truck before I finally pulled the coil wire and it came off in two pieces. It would run because it was arcing across the break, but just barely. Finally quit running when about 1/2" of the wire core was burnt away, but the outer sheath was still intact and covered up the problem area.

Not saying this is your problem, just an example of little things that can be hard to find yet drive you batty.

Same truck years later, I was ready to pull the engine 'cause it wouldn't start, and I'd dumped another pile of money into everything I could think of. Turned out the spark plugs were fouled, but I didn't think it could be the plugs because they were only a couple weeks old. Replaced the plugs as a last resort, ran fine for years afterward.

Moral of the story - check and recheck every piddly little thing, especially the "oh, it couldn't be that" items, sometimes the fix is stupid easy and cheap. That broken coil wire on my Chevy pickup was fixed with an old coil wire I'd replaced on a Harley Panhead, and it ran with it for another 20 years.

 

"The plug wires are two years old I replaced them when I replaced the cap and rotor and did the pertronix conversion."


I've said it before but I'll say it again...

The newest stuff is what I always suspect first.

 

Does it do this all the time or only after it warms up? When it starts sputtering and hesitating is there any way you can recover it or does it just quit anyway? What do the spark plugs look like? Does it immediately start right back up, or do you have to let it cool off? When it does refire, does it run smoothly at idle? Does the exhaust smell overly rich and burn your eyes? Does the oil smell like gas? I noticed you said you "timed it to 20" of vacuum." Put a timing light on it and set it to spec, timing could be way off.