F134 - Engine Dies After Several Minutes

Any chance the regulator is allowing too much juice? Maybe that's what's heating the coil?

 

When it dies can it start immediately back up or must it cool off?

Yeah, do you have a voltage gauge?

 

I would like to see a vacuum guage on the intake manifold, monitored as the procees proceeds from cold-to-hot-to-dead. Sticking valves, plugged exhaust?

 

Still say it acts like a coil gone bad.

 

If it's getting too high voltage to the coil, it might've fried every one that was put in. Grasping at straws, but possible.

 

Yes, I can start it up immediately the first few times it happens.. then it gets harder (as things get hotter?) . I have uploaded 2 videos showing fuel going into carb and they were shot right after each other. First video medium gas, second more gas (second time it dies quicker, not sure if because of more gas or the heat (or whatever the issue is) getting to it the second time round





This video shows spark tester still running after the engine starts to die..




no voltage gauge.

This in theory could be true... what would give the coil too much voltage ?

points are good. I also put in the original coil (w external ballast) this morning and same issue.

Generator is not to hot to touch and wires are all 'cold'

One more video to hopefully explain...

 

I like the idea of looking at sticking valves/plugged exhaust; silly question - > how do I check all that ? Regular compression test is showing 135 on all 4 cylinders.

I do have some vapor coming up from carb and also out of the air filter (coming up from dip stick into air filter) at times... nothing crazy and not all the time.. but I always thought this was normal or acceptable.

 

Vacuum guage.

 

12 volt coil?

 

Not just wires on generator but all wires in engine bay are cold....

I'm also thinking the clamp around the coil is touching the engine.. obviously this makes it very hot as well. Can the clamp/engine be making the coil to get to hot and be an issue ? I wouldn't think so ...

I will

Will need to get my hands on one. Might be a while.

Yes

Readings taken at a few minutes of running. I recall that was the method.

I have the cover off and will redo adjustments on both intake and exhaust

 

I did actually move the coil to the side fender and it did not get as hot but the issue was still there...
Also checked all valves gaps and everything was still spot on. Will not be working on the jeep until weekend so no further updates from my side. Thanks everyone so far.

 

I would try unhooking the generator and just allow it to run on the battery for a test cycle.

(If your coil isn't already fried,) this would rule out the generator/regulator.

 

Bypass chassis wiring and run a 12v source directly to the coil (or ballast res if externally resisted). Run spark grounds directly to the battery. this will help you completely rule out all chassis wiring getting in the way of spark.

This will also rule out the battery or narrow it down to it.

 

A good route would be if you were able to get 12v DC from a converter from regular AC house/grid power. This way you can rule out the battery and bypass it entirely to test JUST the spark equipment.