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F134 - Engine Dies After Several Minutes

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 1968CJ5F134, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. Jul 21, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    If the Solex sat that long then it most definitely needs a rebuild. Could be the accelerator pump is dried up (probably is).
     
  2. Jul 21, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    That's probably not that far off from being accurate. Seriously though the Solex is easy to maintain, but FWIW the Carter is a much more durable carburetor but I wouldn't make replacing a properly operating Solex with a YF a priority if money was any concern at all.
     
    Jrobz23 likes this.
  3. Jul 21, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    To add to this I'm wondering if this scenario is happening: with the fuel enrichment open pressing the accelerator of course opens the butterfly valve giving a false sense of proper accelerator action. Closing it cuts off that fuel supply and if the accelerator pump isn't doing it's thing then pressing the accelerator opens the butterfly valve and the lean condition kills the engine. Maybe just a coincidence that it's temperature related?
     
  4. Jul 21, 2017
    1968CJ5F134

    1968CJ5F134 New Member

    Houston, TX
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    Money is always a concern; especially when I thought a few hundred $ would get me running again. Several thousand $ and several years later the Mrs. is asking why it still doesn't run properly :)

    I'll do a rebuild and test the old one just to see if it will run longer.
     
  5. Jul 21, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Only several thousand so far? You're doing good. ;)
     
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  6. Jul 21, 2017
    1968CJ5F134

    1968CJ5F134 New Member

    Houston, TX
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    Opened up the carb and it looks good. Cleaned everything anyway. Gaskets and openings are in great shape. Pulled a new line from the pump directly to carb away from exhaust as well.

    Still same issue.

    Someone mentione ignition cool and I've gone over that a hundred times however while taking a closer look and touching different parts I do realize the coil does get super hot.

    If the coil is not busted what would make the coil get excessively hot? I know they can get hot but I really can't touch it.

    The other thing is I have the spark tester on there and it willl continue to spark as the engine dies. It could be not making enough spark though ?

    It really feels like someone cuts the engine. It's a clean cut and does not sputter or anything. If I throw it in neutral I can sometimes save it and it will idle all day long ... but no gas/load then it dies completely.
     
  7. Jul 21, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Accelerator pump diaphragm not stiff or torn?
     
  8. Jul 21, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    Does your coil say "internal resistor" on the outside? Or are you running an external resistor?

    Do you have another coil to try?
     
  9. Jul 21, 2017
    1968CJ5F134

    1968CJ5F134 New Member

    Houston, TX
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    The jeep origins had external and ballast on the firewall. The two I have replaced and tested with are internal. I actually bought one 2 weeks ago local and did not help.

    Is it hot because it's mounted to the engine or because its working too hard / resistance ?
     
  10. Jul 21, 2017
    1968CJ5F134

    1968CJ5F134 New Member

    Houston, TX
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    The accelerator pump / diaphragm looked brand new.

    When giving full throttle I see both fuel from center (not sure what that is called) and accelerator noozle working.

    When the engine dies I still see it spraying gas in carb.
     
  11. Jul 21, 2017
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
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    This is what our probing questions are trying to find out. Can you obtain a known working part from anyone local? Can you compare your coil with a working Jeep near ya?

    If you changed the coil out and no change, check the wiring. Impedance changes with heat on most substances, so that is why I think this is spark side. The clean cut also helps this theory as does the 'still spraying gas'.

    ..and yeah.. I think you found the only two Solex fans here LOL
     
  12. Jul 21, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Must have read my mind cause I was going to ask these questions.
     
  13. Jul 21, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    So if I understand it right, it runs fine, revs fine until totally warmed up?
     
  14. Jul 21, 2017
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
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    Do you have wiring going over the heater core or something? Where that warms up after therm opens and some wiring cuts out switched voltage?
     
  15. Jul 21, 2017
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    If that were the case then you would not have enough current (amps) to heat up the coil. The coil should not get super hot. Sumpin wrong there.
     
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  16. Jul 21, 2017
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
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    Good Question. OP clarify.
     
  17. Jul 21, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    From a cold start how long does it take to get to operating temperature?

    With the Solex choke (fuel enricher) right after starting you should be able to move it to about half position, and move it all the way forward by the time the engine reaches around 120 to 140 degrees.

    The coil will get too hot to hold your hand on it but it shouldn't get too hot to even quickly touch.

    Absolutely sure the point gap is good? .020?
     
  18. Jul 22, 2017
    1968CJ5F134

    1968CJ5F134 New Member

    Houston, TX
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    Correct. It runs and starts great. With cold engine I need to keep fuel enricher open (can indeed move to half-way after 1 min). The warmer it gets in the following minutes the better the response and drives rather 'perfect'. But once it gets to a certain 'something' it just dies. I would characterize this 'something' as engine as hot or operating temperature.

    I can repeat this behavior a 1000 times all with same timing and symptoms.
     
  19. Jul 22, 2017
    1968CJ5F134

    1968CJ5F134 New Member

    Houston, TX
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    there is no resistance on the ground side. Either coil , spark plugs, voltage regulator.... or anything else for that matter. Tests done both cold and when symptoms occur.

    Wiring is a new harness from Walck's and does not come near any hot parts. Only item that gets hot that has wiring attached are coil and generator.
     
  20. Jul 22, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    Well, you say it has spark, and you say it has gas down the carb. One of these can't be true. I think you're going to just have to keep replacing parts until you find it.

    How about the ignition switch? Try a jumper from battery to + on coil just to rule that out.
     
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