Dim headlights

Do a search, it has been discussed several times. really fairly simple,

 

Sounds like a possibility. Also, the high/ low filaments aren't wired in series, are they? Run your wires right to the battery, and then try it. Still dim, then it's not wired correctly. My opinion is that complicating things with relays may be unnecessary. I would question wether the proper and actual ground on the three wire light plug is being used, as opposed to one of the filament wires used as a ground, and when power is applied to the other filament wire we now have a dim series circuit...

 

Almost all automotive relays will have either 4 or 5 pins, labeled "30", "85", "86", "87", and if a 5 pin, "87A".

These may be wired in a couple of different ways but I wire them as: battery voltage on pin 30, load on pin 87 (in this case, the headlight bulb leads), control switch on pin 86 (the old wire to the headlight switch), and ground on pin 85. You should be able to get a mini relay/pigtail assembly from any FLAPS. If you are running H4 bulbs, which can pull 100 to 130 watts, you need at least 30 amp relays and I would run at least 12 gauge wire (I use 10 gauge) on both the actual light circuits and the power feed to the relay. You should also have a circuit breaker on the relay battery feed because the one on the stock light switch will no longer be protecting anything but the switch lead to the relay. I use two relays, one each for high beam and low beam and they are wired in on the headlight side of the dimmer switch so no high amperage is passing through that switch.

If you want to incorporate additional relays, it makes a lot more sanitary installation to use a relay block that can mount several relays. That also eliminates some of the wire rat's nest. I've become rather fond of the Bussmann 15300 series blocks which are available in a number of configurations. I get these from Waytek Wire but think Summit may also have them. This is how the Bussmann 15300 relay block is wired in my 3B:


HB = high beam,
LB = low beam,
FG = fog lights
YK = York OBA, and
HN = horn

The adjacent fuses protect the relay power output circuits to the lights, compressor switch, and horn.

These blocks are water tight if properly assembled. I'm also using one of the Bussmann blocks from the main fuse block in the B-mounted on the inside of the firewall.


I made the base from old electronics enclosures but brackets are available from Bussmann. During assembly:


There is a waterproof cover that seals on the red silicone gasket.

 

I wired it straight to the battery previously and they were to dim still.

 

How are you determining which wire is hi beam and which wire is ground and which one is for lo beam? The center pin on the headlight goes to ground.

 

Is that correct? I thought the left pin was ground when viewed from the rear of the lamp as shown here:

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/images/Charts/WiringChart.gif

 

OK looks like I stand corrected again. (standing in corner) My mental picture is of the wiring diagram showing the ground in the middle. I have always installed them by color of wire and black is ground so I never worried about it.

 

Walt, welcome back to the corner, I finally moved a real comfy chair in here.

 

There are some awesome electrical experts on this board. I'm not one of them. But here is how I wired my lights (mistake on the diagram--there is no fusible link directly off the battery):



Duffer describes which pins to use. When you buy the relay, the pins will be diagrammed on the package or on the relay itself. Like I said, I'm no expert-- this might not be the best way, (others may suggest improvements, which I welcome) but it works for me and I haven't burned down the Jeep yet. Using relays powers up your lights like this:



My park lights are also on relays, as is the horn and the electric fan.

 

You might want to make that a couch. I'm sure it's just a matter of minutes before the rest of us join you.

 

I supose as long a somebody shows up with a few packs of beers, we will be a happy bunch

 

Thing is, his lights ought to be working a lot better than they are, relay or no relay. A relay might be nice, but it is not the root of the problem here.

 

Reversed wires/ground seems most plausible then, since he wired direct to battery and lights were still dim, assuming battery voltage is good.

 

Try this: disconnect one of the headlights. Just unplug it. Does the other get brighter or does it go out also?

And somebody asked, I think, is this a 12volt or a 6volt system?

 

I'm getting old and the ol' memory ain't what it used to be. That is one reason we have scroll wheels on our mice.