Determining Where The Steering Slop Is

One of the next areas I'm wanting to start researching so I get a handle on it, is the steering slop. I know it can come from either the Ross box itself or the components attached to it or both. So is the best way to start is pull the Ross box out and rebuild it or start on the mechanics underneath? My thoughts are to have someone turn the steering wheel with the tires on the ground and watch from underneat to see what moves before the wheels actually move. But since I'm not real experienced at what to look at, where do I start? All input from those that have gone thru this is appreciated. I have no desire to do a conversion, so please don't start recommending it, but want to get it as good as it can be reasonably expected. Plus how much play in the steering wheel is considered normal under these old style systems?

 

There's gonna be play... it's just finding the fine line between what is a safe limit and what you can stand.

Your plan is good; have someone rock the wheel back and forth 1/4 -1/2 turn while you crawl around underneath looking at all the moving parts. Every point of direction change will be the biggest culprit. The worst point is usually the bellcrank.

 

As mentioned above, there are many wear points between the steering wheel and the tires. Each point adds to the next, creating very sloppy steering. Usually, the two most common areas are the actual Ross box, and the bellcrank, both mentioned above. The next is the drag link connecting the pitman arm to the bellcrank. A huge slotted screwdriver can be used for tightening if you don't have a drag link socket.
Just have someone get in the Jeep and gently saw the wheel back and forth in the "free play" zone to see the slack movement.
-Donny

 

Are you getting death wobble? After you get your steering linkage sorted out it is still possible to still get death wobble (but you will be one step closer). I've been through this before and there were other things I had to sort out before it went away. Kingpin bearing need preload and you should test the drag while the tie rods are disconnected. Use a fish scale and connect to knuckle, pull and not the preload. Also I found springs and shackle bearings need to be in good shape and stock size is better. Even the number of leaves and leave clamps contribute to dampening. I have a stock A1 with the stock military springs and no aftermarket steering dampening shock and I never have death wobble. When I first got the jeep it had scary death wobble and a problem with everything I listed. You will know when you get death wobble. It's a very scary shaking of the whole vehicle at any speed.

 

Mine is not what you describe as death wobble. It's more of a moving it from 11 o'clock to 1 constantly as you drive down the road. I've kind of gotten used to it but the wife hasn't.

 

Double check your caster and toe-in. Maybe take it and have the alignment checked/fixed at a shop that can give you a print-out to see where it needs help.

Even with slop in your steering (with healthy tie rod ends), if your caster and toe are set correctly, it should go relatively straight down the road with minimal input.

 

Eleven to one is factory spec, new. 9 to 3 is when you worry.

But sawing back and forth may be alignment/toe-in etc. Properly adjusted steering will tend to self-center.