Dauntless - One Side Smoky / Rich

Hello,
New to this forum. I hope that I'm not repeating a thread here.
I have a recently acquired 69' CJ5 with a Dauntless with an HEI, Rochester 2GC and headers. I've got smoke and what smells like a rich condition on the passenger/right exhaust. The two exhausts also sound different.

Cardboard placed behind the exhausts (to stop water and exhaust from spraying other parts gets blackened on the right side - not on left side

I have confirmed that I have the correct HEI - odd fire

I have timed the engine to 5 deg BTDC - vac disconnected - 19-20hg with about 33 deg advance at idle

Idle screws adjusted using tach and vacuum gauge. I can crank the right side screw all the way in and that side still smokes.

Choke is open
Will idle down to 600.
Seems to have a slight miss on right side at idle.
Compression is 140-150psi on all six.
New plugs
New gas

So what's next? Sticky exhaust valve? Bad plug wire?
The old plugs looked a little more sooty on the right than the left side, but still dry. All three on that side looked the same. That said, while consistent, I have no trust in how the PO was running it. I'll wait a bit before I drag the plugs out again to inspect (and whats the deal with the tiny plug holes? I can barely get a socket in there!)

As I've leaned out that side as much a possible, I'm thinking it's a valve or misfire thats causing the rich smell and smoke.

Too smoky and smelly to be a fun driver. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks!

 

Insure distributor is installed correctly with cyl 1 spark plug tower of cap correct.
There have been several threads outlining how to accompolish this.
Here's two that may help you sort this out:
Dauntless 225 Cylinder Numbers, DUI Distributor, Timing Problems
Passenger side runs rougher than drivers side ...

 

IIRC someone on this forum had a similar issue in the last month or two. Try a search.

 

Mine had excessive soot out the tailpipe when the valves were sticking. Easy to check because you know what side is acting up. Did it sit a long time? If it did stop now and let us know before you continue.

 

About the spark plug part, yes you need a thin walled socket. I just happened to have this lying around. (13/16” for the spark plugs)

 

Thanks All -
Well, it ends up it was a brain fart on the spark plug wiring - always good to go back to square one. I was sure that I had it correct :/ Good call NCRenII - Thank you. Another odd-fire mishap. I marked the crank at 90 degrees from #1 TDC for the timing light and hitched the pickup to the #6 wire. Sure enough, it fired. So I had the wires on wrong....2,4 and 6 were all retarded by 30 degrees. I'm shocked it ran as well as it did. I ended up shifting the rotor back/counter clockwise to the next post, changed the wire locations to match and re-timed. On another thread, someone mentions timing up to 8 degrees BTDC with HEI, and I did find that 8 degs had it running best. That said, with larger HEI cap and aluminum high mount power steering pump bracket, I can't spin the cap any further - so 8 degrees it is It's running great now and is also a lot more comfortable with the exhausts pointed out the side of the Jeep rather than straight out the back - all of the exhaust blowing right back up to the passengers......cough, cough. Thanks again for feedback.

 

Re the timing, Static timing is generally o.k. on the v6, for kicks you might determine what your total timing is. With weights and vacuum all in (1,500 rpm or a little more) it's nice to see 35* total.
Glad the info helped. Mny people end up with similar issue after tuning, some jeeps come with the problem. The issue is the funky rotor that corrects for the oddfire spark timing events. #1 has to be on the right tower and dist gear correctly oriented with cam .

 

Interesting - I hadn't even considered the rotor. I'll have to have a better look next time I take it apart. I'm afraid I don't understand why #1 wire couldn't be on any one of the three towers for that bank (assuming the rotor matched at TDC and you have enough swing/twist to time it), as they are all 120 deg apart? We actually considered shifting all the wires so #1 would end up on the #3 tower, in hopes that we might have more swing to time with. This ended up not being necessary. The narrow band of twist that we had, fortunately, hit the mark perfectly and we preferred to leave the system as the manufacturer specified (making future work more easily understood - for my forgetful self or for future owner). I did determine that I am now on the tower that the distributor manufacturer specified. Unfortunately, when we originally assembled the system, the directions allowed for some "interpretation", which I mis-interpreted Oh well.
With vacuum, we set the gun to 35 deg and were spot on at idle. I'll be curious to have a look at 1500+rpm. I'll let you know if I don't get expected results
Thanks again

 

The 120 degrees apart works for an even-fire Buick, but not the odd-fire. Look inside the cap to see how the terminals are offset.
-Donny

 

the v6 is basically the same design as the v8 with 2 cylinders lopped off. the timing events are 90-150-90-150-...
I neglected to describe the dist/rotor/cap correctly. On my prestolite the rotor contact is not a tab, rather an arc, on your hei, the contact is a tab, yet terminals are grouped with unequal angles between the contacts (and towers).
If you haven't browsed this site, check it out:
The Novak Guide to The Buick 90 Degree V6 Engine