Dana 44 Overhaul

Yeah, I'm convinced I'd rather be related to these guys than some of my own family. All but one of my friends have turned shy when they look at the guts of a diff. I just look stupid and keep asking questions.

 

I know that feeling. I have always worked on my own cars, its just the way I was raised. Now my wife and I are living in a neighborhood where not many people even change their own oil. Last year I was changing the timing belt on my 4runner (inside my garage), I think half the neighborhood walked by and asked me if I needed the name of a mechanic. I think they believe if they are unable to do something, then no one should be able too.

Anyway, once you have this differential back together, you will have the jeep mastered.

 

The bronze drift punch didn't work for removing the two pinion races. I had to have more beef and pulled out a pin punch and whacked one right out of there. Need to dig up a longer one for the outer race.
I remain stumped on the shim and oil slinger position on the yoke side pinion. These shims have to fit on the pinion shaft outboard of the outer bearing. No doubt about that. My previous pics were wrong. These are my only options:

1, the shims reside against the outer surface of the bearing after it's installed or
2. The oil slinger resides against the outer surface of the bearing and the shims are then installed against the slinger,
In both cases I have a choice on which way the oil slinger is installed. The oil slinger is like a big washer but with a concave recess pressed in the center. Does the concave face in or outbound toward the yoke?
Wish I hadn't let that darn pinion slip out so fast or I could have seen this and move on. I might call Randy's next week if we can't confirm.

 

I'm adding questions on top of questions. My pinion yoke is slightly scored, maybe where the seal slides against the collar. You can see the line in the photo Is it speedy sleeve time, new yoke or fine as-is?
http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii610/Elislives/40e4777b.jpg

 

Speedi sleeve or new yoke.
The order is shims against the step on the drive pinion then outer bearing. The shims set bearing preload. After the outer bearing then the slinger, yoke, washer, and nut. Play with the slinger against the bearing. The slinger should not hit the bearing or race in any way. This will tell you real quick.


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The oil slinger is positioned between the back side of the gear and the bearing. Just slide it all the way down and press on the bearing. The depth shims sit underneath the pinion race. You don't even mess with the preload shims until you're almost done with the setup. As far as the yoke goes both a sleeve or new yoke is acceptable. There has to be clean shaft on either side of the groove for the sleeve to seal properly though. Make sure there's enough meat left to get a good seal.

 

Good info all. Thank you!!! And, please have a laugh at this contraption. I don't weld so had to improvise a little,,,

 

Hmm. Can't be. The bearing is still on the pinion gear end so the slinger can't reside between the two. It has to be on the yoke end somewhere

 

I need to find a better diagram. There's no way to have the slinger not touch bearing or race. Either way it will touch.

 

Pics of oil slinger

 

D30 pictured.
I think what you have there is the thrust washer. The slinger is a thick piece that should slide all the way down to the gear. You can see it in the picture above.

Sorry if picture doesn't show. I'm on my iPhone. The pic is in the write up I sent you.

 

Well, I had most of my answers at hand and didn't catch it. The exploded view in the service manual shows this as the oil slinger and it rests against the yoke side of the outer bearing. it must be turned so that the inner offset portion in the center rests against the bearing. If turned the opposite, it would prevent oil from entering between the cone and race.

 

There is also one between the outer bearing and yoke. Some are flat and some are offset like the pics shown. Some don't use the inner one you describe and some do. All the ones I've seen use the outer slinger. It directs the oil as was said and acts like a splash shield to help direct oil away from the seal. The Id of each is different and the outer one will not slide down the shaft so it can fit between the gear and inner bearing.


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I bow to Nickmil. I do it recreationally.

 

I apologize for asking questions before I research and look at the dang pictures in the TSM. And yes, I bow to you, Nick and others who pitch-in with your vast array of knowledge.

 

Draft assembly procedure. Grossly over-simplified but hopefully generally correct. Comments appreciated.
Rear Dana 44 – Flanged Axle - 3.73 Ratio
Assembly with existing R&P, new posi, bolts, bearings, seal, shims, oil slinger, yoke, nut & washer

1. Assemble and install pinion gear and yoke with new bearings, new outer race, “set-up” inner race, oil slinger and all shims to match original assembly. Do not install seal. Set pinion bearing preload to 14-19 in-lbs
2. Assemble and install posi/ring gear with set-up bearings. Set backlash to .006 - .010 inches. Shims installed between carrier bearings and carrier housing.
3. Check pattern and adjust pinion depth by adding/removing shims between the “set-up” inner bearing race and the housing.
4. Recheck backlash & pinion depth – adjust as-needed.
5. Remove the carrier.
6. Remove the pinion gear, replace the “set-up” inner race and reinstall the assembly with the new oil seal. Torque pinion nut to 160-200 ft/lbs and set pinion bearing preload to 14-19 in/lbs. Adjust preload shims as-needed.
7. Remove “set-up” bearings from carrier and replace with new bearings and shims as determined in Step 2, 3 & 4.
8. Install carrier/ring gear assembly. Torque bearing caps to 45-60 ft/lbs
9. Recheck backlash & pattern

Misc Notes:

1. Use Red thread locker on final assembly of ring gear bolts and bearing cap bolts
2. Use Blue thread locker on final assembly of pinion nut
3. Use lithium grease on seal

 

Add a step 6a:
After replacing the setup race for the inner pinion bearing with the new bearing race, reassemble the differential case and recheck the contact pattern. Do not install the pinion seal until after verifying both the correct pattern and the correct pinion preload. Don't put full torque on the pinion nut until the very last time, 100 lbs or so is enough to check pinion preload. Use Anti-seize compound on the pinion threads for all these trial assembly steps, and use a standard nut (not your locking nut) until final torque step.

 

Good points. I'll add this. Additional questions on torque,,,,
1. The TSM calls for 200-220 ft/lbs on the pinion nut on final install. What if it's much lower when you reach the correct pinion bearing preload of 10-25 in/lbs? Keep tightening?
2. The specs call for 35-55 ft/lbs for the ring gear bolts. At 30ft/lbs they feel VERY tight. Get a bigger torque wrench?
3. Using wood blocks in a vise to hold the carrier/posi/ring rear,,,can you tighten the crap out of the vise without distorting the bearing stubs? Suggestions?
4. Carrier bearing cap bolts spec'd to 70-90 ft/lbs. Go the distance?

 

Just what works for me.