Dana 44 Overhaul

I thought that a brake cylinder hone was the tool of choice to make setup bearings.

 

Good idea. I've always used a barrel sander. I can hold it in my hand that way. I'd have to figure out a way to hold it securely. Brake hone to the finger tip doesn't feel too good.

 

I use the brown die grinder stones. Makes very short work of them. Tried cylinder hones and just ate up the stones. I use flat washers on the inner race and put it all in the vice. The washers are sacrificial. Has worked well for me. Make sure you clean and fully cool the bearing before test fitting or as the inner race cools it may be tight on the case bearing journal..... Damhik.


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On hold for the week while I do my day job. Did manage to stop by Northern tool and get a dead blow hammer, punches, etc.
Also dug up a piece of steel to make a tool for the yoke. It came off a shipping brace for some imaging equipment. Strange but it's the right width and two bolt holes align perfectly with the holes in the yoke. Drill two more and cut a hole in the center and it's done. Will post a pic, this is a positive sign of things to come.

 

FYI looking at prices for case spreaders, I think you could buy one, use it, then sell it on ebay and almost break even (minus shipping of course).

 

Good idea i think I'm going to buy the spreader and pullers and anything else I need and do just what you suggest. I have two axles to rebuild and need to get rockin.

 

You have a welder and a drill press?
I made my own housing spreader using a welder and drill press for just the cost of the metal and the 1" drill.

Don

 

X2 I've made several over the years (always seem to lose the last one). It's nothing more than some bar stock, a length of all thread, and some small square tube to hold the all thread in place against the bar stock. Oh and 4 nuts.

 

Good advice on making a spreader. My problem is a lack of quality time with the jeep. Buying is faster and hoping to get a good part of the $$ back on resell.

I'm still missing a good dial indicator. Seems there's several options. Would a 1" range with .001 increments work ok?

 

Yup. Would be just fine.

 

Cool. Off to find one

 

I need to see if someone could look back at my pictures of the pinion and see if I have the oil slinger and the three spacers are positioned correctly. Also, The oil slinger has an indentation and not sure if I have it facing correctly.

The spacers and the oil slinger are the only spacers in the entire diff. None on the carrier.

 

Also pinion depth is confusing. Need to read more about this. Nothing stamped on end of pinion.

 

did you look in the service manual? I think there is an exploded view in there that shows the assembly. I am at work right now, so I can't check it.

 

PMed you. Also the lack of any stamping on your pinion means it's original factory. Markings come on the aftermarket pinions giving the variance from factory (+3,+2,+1,0,-1,-2,-3 in thousanths of an inch).

 

Yes but the quality of the photo's in the exploded view are fairly poor. I couldn't tell what was what.

 

Oh! Ok. That's good to know.

 

Not just aftermarket, but also factory Dana pinions may be marked + or - 1, 2, or 3 thousanths inch variance from standard. FSM calls this out. This just reflects factory manufacturing tolerances.
A pinion that is not stamped just means it is one that came out right in the center of the allowable tolerance.

Don

 

This is turning to a great thread elvis, you keep bringing up all the issues you run in to that we'll all run into when rebuilding our stock.