Dana 44 Locker

thinking of putting in a locker in my rear axle, dana 44. questions:
1. if its in the rear axle, its always locked?
2. if I go with an air locker, like ARB or the like, then I can switch it on and off?
3. do you notice it at all while driving? my jeep sees 97% pavement, and 3% trails behind my house.

 

1. if its in the rear axle, its always locked? (depends on type)
2. if I go with an air locker, like ARB or the like, then I can switch it on and off? (YES... negates question #1)
3. do you notice it at all while driving? my jeep sees 97% pavement, and 3% trails behind my house. (with a full time you will absolutely notice in a CJ5... go selectable, Electric/Air/Cable and its invisible 97% of the time

 

You make selectable lockers sound desirable.

 

pulling into a parking spot with a SWB locked rear end vehicle often gets gazes of curious onlookers who hear chirping tires, banging noises.. and yeah.. the brown underwear

 

I had a lockright (automatic locker) in mine for 2-3 years and it was very noticeable. It did odd things with the steering and the noises and jerks when engaging/disengaging were annoying.

I switched to a e-locker (selectable) and it is so much more pleasant to live with...but alot more expensive.

 

I have a Detroit in the rear of my 71. I see 97% trails and 3% street. It definitely let's you know it is there at times. After not driving it for a while the first time it unloads certainly will wake you up.
My locker was either the best or second best upgrade I ever made. Huge difference off road and I get used to it on the street.

 

I ran a lockright forever in mine (now I have them front and rear), I got used to the odd steering (it's not a racecar after all) and the clicks when parking.. I am a huge fan of them, cheap, super easy to install, work great as long as you are not running huge HP engines and all.. I just put one in the D44 I am building for my XJ as well. The odd steering comes from the fact that it will unlock the outside wheel in a turn and tend to push with the inside wheel, if you pedal it in a loose surface turn it will really do some odd things haha but I like the odd things, all part of the fun..

I do agree, selectables are a far better way to go if you have the time and money to set one up but for cheap and easy you can't go wrong with a lockright..

 

Anyone running a TrueTrac in the rear?

 

Keep in mind that there is another option to a locker; a limited slip, or LSD. These are sort of like a locker, but not as extreme, therefore, limited slip. For the D44, a Power Lok or Trac Lock are options that may work well for trail use without the hard-core side effects of a Detroit Locker, which is a LSD. These have clutches, ratchets, or gears that allow traction to be transferred to both wheels, but allow for slippage for better road manners.
A locker it just that, both axles locked together with no slippage. ARB , OX, and Eaton E-Locker are examples of selectable lockers, as well as the Lincoln Locker where all the spider/side gears in the diff have been welded into a solid chunk.
-Donny

 

Just my $.02 but I would steer clear of a Trac Lock. My 71 had an original unit. I blew it up twice and fixed it once. After it failed the second time I went to the Detroit. If you can find a good Power Lok they are definitely worth it.

 

I wondered why LSD are no longer offered in late model trucks (Fords). I supposed it had to do with fuel mileage. Takes HP to turn with friction plate type LSD.

 

Randy's Ring and Pinion has an article that gives an overview - Standard Carriers, Positraction & Limited Slips, Locking Differentials, Spools and Mini-Spools - if you're up for a little reading. Note that Randy's refers to "selectable" as "on-command" - same thing.

The selectable locker (air like ARB, mechanical like Ox, or electric like Eaton ELocker) is the best option in nearly all situations, but it's also the most expensive (including purchase and installation). I believe this is the limiting factory for most owners. About the only other downsides are possible shifter failure, and that it isn't on all the time.

 

Both of my SuperDutys have them from the factory and frankly they suck. I think they set them pretty loose otherwise the litigation from inexperienced drivers. Non selectable lockers have some quirks and you'll learn to lay off the skinny pedal through the turns

 

My 97 Dodge Dakota has a Trac-lok in it from the factory. It still works fine after 330,000 miles, I would guess it depends how hard you use it. Mine will still lay down 2 nice tire tracks when doing a burnout after all these years. My jeep has an Aussie locker in the front and power lock (limited slip) in the rear. It sometimes does some weird crap on the road in the rain but just don't drive it like an idiot and its fine.

 

They do add significant complexity. They are actuated "on demand", usually some kind of switch or valve. These mechanisms can be failure prone, depending on install. With a mostly road driven rig and light wheeler, I'd likely be looking for a LSD (and I'm installing one right now). My perference is for a Detroit TrueTrac since it's always-on, gear driven (not a wear item clutch), and requires no special additives. Known for its excellent street manners, my big beef is that it's not Made in USA.

Selectables get the 'best of both worlds' at the cost of complexity, expense, and adding more failure points.

 

I have a Lockright in the rear of my 56. Love it off-road tolerate it on blacktop. I am not sure I would go that route if it only saw 3% off-road. There is certainly a learning curve to driving it.