Dana 30 Questions

I am wrapping up more or less a complete rebuild with new parts on the dana 30 (2 bolt disc axle).
kept the old spindles just refurbished them.

as my understanding, the spindle should fit on the knuckle with the slot (that holds the washer) pointing in any direction. so I indexed the driver and passenger sides so the slots point rearwards, drivers side went on with some persuasion,

the passenger side will not go on, the forward side gets hung up with about 1/8 of an inch to go before it bottoms out, if I index clockwise once more to the next stud its around the same issue but any other indexed location clockwise it just slides in effortlessly.

at first I thought a bent spindle, but the inner hub is held in tight so I would assume I should see a bend on the spindle shaft and that should not really influence the fit to the knuckle, so
I did roughly check the spindle on my lathe with a three jaw and can notice a slight wobble but it seems about right for a three jaw scroll chuck and a spindle sticking out far. maybe 5 thou in that area. I put a few extra spindles and they all seemed to be similar

or perhaps because the spindle is old the holes and studs just want to go together how they like?

 

I've never worried about where the slot ended up at If it goes on in one of the other positions I would assume it would be fine

 

Hum, for what i read before, disq brake spindle and drum spindle is lightly different from each other....maybe the problem is there...

 

Pretty sure if you had the disk or drum spindles, and tried to use the other, your assembly troubles would be when you install the bearings and the hubs. I don't think it would affect how the spindle sits on the knuckle.

It would be easy to measure the ID of the hole in the knuckle and compare that to the shoulder on the spindle. A little wire brushing of the knuckle bore and spindle, if they are not bright steel already, would certainly be allowed. I suspect it's more about an uneven build-up of rust/dirt/oil on the inside of the knuckle bore.

 

good info,
I am using the original disc spindles that I took off the axle prior to the rebuild. so no issues in that regard.
so indexing 6 times, two combinations bind up so I think its just age of the parts.
I had cleaned up the spindle to shiny metal, the knuckle not as much. its just odd.

the axle tubes don't look bent, I would think the spindle would have some representation of a bend if they were.
maybe the alignment shop will tell me something later!
probably over thinking it, I will leave it in one of the locations is slides into nicely and call it good.

 

its a really tight fit. Do what Tim says and clean them up thoroughly before reassembling. I'm a big fan of never-seize on these parts.

 

yes, anti seize now that side slides in effortlessly, the same combination still hangs up maybe needs more cleaning.

 

I have a complete disk set-up (5 bolts hubs) in my storage unit.
I took those disc spindles and was able to mount on the knuckle any way I wanted.
In full disclosure, I did not try and install the spindle all the way into the knuckle due to rust debris etc etc.
The spindle hub will fit very tightly into the knuckle opening.

 

so, another issue!
I had forgot that one of the drive flange/hub bolts was cross threaded.
this hub is 6 bolt.

I have a stash of hubs, but I have to ask. aside from measuring now.

what do I have to look for when trying to see if I can find a matching hub? are all 6 bolt hubs the same regardless of drum / disc / cj2 or?

 

Some of the early hubs used a smaller race. I believe most after about 1949 will work with drum brakes. I have just been buying new Crown ones lately.

 

what would distinguish drum or disc use?

maybe this weekend I will scrounge the hubs with bore gages and check the two inner race diameters.
all the other physical or visual characteristics should be the same? any dimensions I am missing?

- alternatively, I don't know if there is a way to save this stripped thread. a coil seems like it would not be long enough..... I did run a tap I could tell it was cutting a new path. the bolt threads but feels like its going to pull the threads out. perhaps I can JB weld a stud in that hole permanently, since the threads are still keeping everything centre.

 

D25 was used prior to 1963.
The D30 hub is certainly not the same as the D25 hub.
The D25 hub uses smaller diameter bearings and slightly smaller seal than either D27 or D30.
Also both D25 and early D27 hubs used LH lug studs.
All D27 hubs are identical to D30 hubs excepting those D27's with LH studs.
All D30 studs are RH thread.

There is a difference concerning the disk or drum type spindles.

 

lots of info!
I just thought afterwards that any drum hub is likely not machined flat on the back side. so this means I couldn't have the disc sit flat.
so looks like I am out of luck this time.

I am going to give the hoard a fast look, I have a misc bucket full of dana 44 front axle parts maybe have something in that.

has anyone repaired a stripped lockout hub thread? be a shame to toss this hub on the account of one shoddy thread. or maybe thats just my opinion as I cleaned and painted it already :S

*Edit,
HeliCoil I suppose I answered my own question unless something else I missed.
3/8-16 for the bolt size?

 

you answered your own question. the mid-70s d-30 hub will not readily accept a disc because of the non-machined surface. later d-30 hubs will, but i don't know offhand the year breakdown.

you might also look into the chevy disc/caliper conversion. from what i recall, it can possibly be used with the d-30 hub.

 

I knew this would haunt me, I unfortunately purchased all new 2 bolt disc parts that were originally on this axle. is there any issues with this setup?
anyways, after I bought everything I remembered I had the chevy caliper mount that will fit the knuckle, but I didn't want to buy everything again for that set up.
the plan is keep the bracket and parts and if I ever wear out the original brakes I will upgrade to the chev, I suppose this is the same setup Herm sells.

my rear 44 has the chev setup. hell of a lot beefier then the dana 30 stock 2 bolt.

 

I believe this should be the last of the dana 30 questions.

I am trying to distinguish the left and right two bolt caliper mounts that bolt to the knuckle.
any easy way to identify left and right? perhaps in relation to the bolt that holds the removable key on the mount.

also what torque do I put on the two bolts?

in regard to the callipers, the bleeders should face up so that can tell me the left and right for those.

all the manuals I have found are for drums :s

 

seems like I did in fact mark left and right.
if I did it right, the retaining screw on the 2 bolt bracket should be on the lower ear.
*edit, I believe once the rotor is on its evident it only fits one way, sometimes I make life more difficult then needed.

now to figure out the torque on the two bolts.