D30 Upgrade

I am considering your suggestion also. I may be able to splice the tubing with a fitting before exiting. The gentleman I spoke to yesterday has done a bunch of these and he always puts a groove in the cap. With that being said it still may not be the best answer. I am no expert either but what is the difference between drilling a hole through it and making a groove? I'll try to get a picture of how it is currently drilled.

 

Seems there should be a better way to correct that. I know that tubing is copper and can be easy to break or kink.........but it sure seems strange to have to go through the cap to get where you need to go.....................I think you can buy that outer sleeve with a new tube attached.

 

You can buy that part but it is very different now than mine is. The new version has you drill a hole in the cap to add a retainer clip and the part itself is not even close. I need to do more research to see if it will work.
Here is a picture of how the old one is through the cap.

Here is the cap I need to use.

 

Jzeber- I pm'd you.

 

I would certainly yield my hypothetical suspicions to his real world experience. If he has had success with his method, then it must be acceptable.

 

That's the common way to do an ARB, notching the cap.

 

Thanks Daryl. From the pictures was the original done wrong? It seems like you should notch the lowered part.

 

Did a bench test and the ARB engages.

 

Thanks for learning me something guys.

 

jeepermc sent me the installation instructions, it calls for "the bearing cap to be drilled or slotted". Today I was able to get the tube out of the original cap using my high speed and a cut off wheel.
He also told me I need to use a different race than what is supplied with the Master Install Kit. Off to order more parts!

 

I'll chime in here. jzeber has an early RD30 that uses 4 bolts on the cylinder cap instead of the later model that used 6 and was discontinued in about Y2K. It's an old design but still serviceable. Replacement parts are limited to mainly seals, seal housing and cross shafts at this point. The seal housing is still the same as it always was, but it uses a 3.5 mm copper line and has since the early 2000's. His is a 3/16" steel line. It uses a ferrule in the bulkhead fitting on the steel line to hold things together and seal it. I only slightly clearanced the bearing cap on the one in my CJ-6 when I installed it. Very minimal, but I used a new seal housing with the copper line so it was a bit smaller. I should have taken some photos.... But I didn't.

 

First, jeepermc has been a tremendous help with the ARB! Thanks for that.
I ordered the ARB seals and new bearing cups last night. Seals were $12 plus shipping, cups were about $5 each. The bearings that came with the master install kit are the correct ones. I ordered 2 races because I was reading that you have to use the same for each side. Since I do not have the original I am going to do a little more research to make sure. I just looked up the different P/N's.
The standard P/N LM510314 Outer Cup Dia. 2.8910 inch, Cup Width 0.5800 inch.
The required P/N LM510310 Outer Cup Dia 2.8910 inch, Cup Width 0.6537 inch.
Another great resource for Timken is the link below. I just typed the P/N and "spec" into Google and it took me to that page.
Timken Part Number LM501349 - LM501314, Tapered Roller Bearings - TS (Tapered Single) Imperial On The Timken Company
Gears showed up today, NIB and exactly what was described. Off to turn on the oven to warm them up!

 

So the ARB requires and different cup than the factory case? Am I understanding correctly? But the bearing is the same for either one, right?

 

Correct but only on one side. I checked with my friend today. Stock cup on gear side, above cup on air side.

 

A couple more pics. Still waiting for a few more parts. I am going to install the upper ball joints, rotors and wheel studs and any other little items I can this week. I hope to get the gears installed next weekend.
New ring gear installed:

Cleaned up and painted:

 

What did you paint that with? it looks AWESOME!!!!

 

Thanks, just rustoleum gloss black. I spent a lot of time with a wire wheel on my high speed grinder. I almost had it down to bare metal before I painted it.

 

I received a few more parts. I am just waitng for the ARB housing O-rings.
Rotors and new wheel studs installed.

I buttoned up the ball joints tonight also. I just need to take out the old pinion and get this to my friends house for gear install. He wont be back until Fri. I also put new outer axle shaft seals and spindle seals on the axles tonight. I'll get pics tomorrow when the sun is out.
For those that wanted a parts list, what is the best format to post? PDF, Excel, Word, jpg?

 

Looks Good Jeff