D30 Upgrade

Thanks Tarry good info!
At full droop the shock is about 1/4" shorter than the travel. I did take measurements at ride height and full droop. I am going to try to match that when I move the mount.

 

From what I have read the RS5000 should not be inverted. The ride will suffer tremendously. I am not saying it cant be done, apparently people do it all the time but they also say the ride sucks when you do it.

 

Well you surely don't want the shock to be the limiting droop factor for the axle............when you get around to checking for clearance.......perhaps you should just tack on the upper mount and stick the shock on and then cycle the suspension up/down and side to side.........before any final welding............you do also have the option of moving your lower shock mount up onto the axle tube...

 

Started trying to remove the upper shock mounts yesterday. It seems I will need to remove the fender to get them completely off. They have huge rivets(?) through the top into the frame. I was able to grind one down but can't reach the other. Now I am trying to figure out how to replicate the rivets(?) when I move them. The frame is boxed in the area where I need to place them mounts.
Progress pics coming soon.

 

Cut off wheel , and then knock the other half of the rivet out the bottom.........................or if your trying to save the mount.........got to drill the center of the rivet out. then knock it out.......some of those mounts also had a short little bead of weld on the side..........................Jeff, FYI I looked for those other later shock mounts yesterday........and I'm still looking???

 

I use a torch to remove the rivets. Blow straight down on the rivet head and slightly wash the rivet away in a circular motion. If the base steel of the mount isn't heated, the molten puddle will stay contained to the rivet. Wash away until flush with the mount, then use a punch to smack it through. Quick and easy method.

 

When I moved my shock mounts, I just bolted them in their new location with Grade 8 bolts and locking nuts. Then I welded down each side.

 

This is what I plan to do. Not sure how to get nuts on the bolts where the frame is boxed though. I'll crawl around under today to see what it looks like.

 

I don't have a blow torch, using a high speed grinder to get them off. One is off and I need to get to the other today.

 

Good advice Tarry. I may try the drill method since it is so hard to get to the front rivet. Mine have been welded around the edges. I am using a high speed cut off wheel to get through the welds.
No worries on the mounts, hopefully I can reuse the originals.

 

The key on drilling the rivet out is to first get a good center punch mark in the center of the rivet..............then start the first hole with say a 1/8" bit and progressively work the size up until the head of the rivet nearly falls off.........If I'm not mistaken the shank size of the rivet is 3/8"? ..............but once your drill down into the rivet and say get the drill size up to 5/16" or greater that will release the grip the rivet has on the ID of the hole.........once the head falls off use a big punch and hammer and it will drive out...................keeping the drill bit in the center of the rivet is important.

 

I ended up getting the old mount off. I drilled and tapped some holes into the frame and put a couple grade 8 bolts through the mount. I am going to cycle the suspension before I weld it in place. I have a couple of pics I will update later of where it sits at full droop. The shock is perfect now, no more 1/4 inch difference.
Wondering if I should tack a few spots on the bolts when I am welding it in place?

 

May as well..................Tack the bolts and weld the mount

 

That's the plan, thanks for confiming.

 

Pics of shocks bolted in place. Driver side is the one with the least clearance but it should be good. This is with the wheels turned as far as travel will allow. This is at full droop.

The first picture makes it look tighter than it actually is.
I hope to get the mounts welded in today. With my auto immune sometimes I overdo things and it takes a day or two to recoup.
A pic of the suspension fully compressed.

 

Welded the shock mounts yesterday. As I said somewhere in this process one of the u-bolt plates was cracked on one of the holes. I ordered these Ubolt spring plates, skid plates for Jeep. and I am waiting for them to arrive.
I have on board air and a tank under my seat. I am trying to figure out the best way to mount the ARB solenoid. It seems most are mounted to an ARB compressor but I will need to figure something else out. I just need to plumb the ARB, fill the diff with gear oil and bleed the brakes.

 

ARB AIR COMPRESSOR MANIFOLD KIT (171503)

 

Thanks I saw that but I am a bit over budget at the moment. I made a mount today, hopefully it will work.

 

The u-bolt spring plates I ordered are out of stock until at least next week. I decided to cancel that order and go to a different product. The ones I had on my D27 were 3/16's and the new ones are also.

 

It won't care how it's mounted. As long as you can feed it air without leaking, it will work. The manifold kit just makes it easier on you, not the pocketbook.