1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Clutch diagnosis

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by JZ, May 17, 2008.

  1. May 17, 2008
    JZ

    JZ Member

    Huntsville...
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2004
    Messages:
    140
    OK, I have shortened the link from the clutch fork to the arm about as far as I can go... And, the clutch (new) still does not disengage. Where else can I take up slack?

    ['59 CJ5 F134, mostly stock]
     
  2. May 17, 2008
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
    Messages:
    2,620
    Re: Cluth diagnosis

    Throwout installed correctly?
    Clutch disc installed backward?
    How much free play do you have in the end of the clutch fork now?
    Can you take off the inspection plate top cover on the bell and look down there when you depress the pedal?
     
  3. May 18, 2008
    JZ

    JZ Member

    Huntsville...
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2004
    Messages:
    140
    Re: Cluth diagnosis

    I think so
    Read the manual carefully, I chose the direction that matched the diagram (with the spline sleeve not centered on the disc).
    Over 2 inches of free play.
    Yes, the arms do not move much when pedal mashed to floor.

    Thanks, sounds like i have to shorten the ball-cable-clevis some more.
     
  4. May 18, 2008
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,371
    Re: Cluth diagnosis

    Does the F head have a pilot bushing, or bearing? If it's a bushing, and you had to pull the tranny up with the bell housing bolts, the input shaft can stick in the pilot. I've seen it happen. If so, put in in low range, push in the clutch, hold the brakes, and try to start it....
     
  5. May 18, 2008
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    491
    Re: Cluth diagnosis

    Patricks speaks the truth.

    If the disk is in backwards the throwout bearing will make a howling sound and send lots of sparks all over the place while gouging a groove in your new clutch fork (i et my dad replace the clutch once). I also had a couple of issues with mine before this. The pivot in the bell housing can be unscrewed with the 225. I replaced mine with an adjustable pivot to gain some extra throw. Also, if the cross shaft doesn't have the ears at ~45 degrees some motion is lost in vertical travel instead of horizontal. I made a new linkage shaft to get things where I wanted them and voila no more linkage issues.

    if the latter is the case you might want to swap out a yoke type fitting for the bent steel rod. Take a piece of steel rod, thread it to match the yokes (should be available at lowes or home depot) and adjust the new linkage until you get the angle you want on the cross shaft. I broke the carter pin that holds the linkage in and lost my clutch coming home from school (downtown atlanta) one day... it's no fun driving like that, but doable.

    yoke:
    http://www.pacificmarine.net/yoke_end.htm
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2008
  6. May 18, 2008
    JZ

    JZ Member

    Huntsville...
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2004
    Messages:
    140
    Thanks all. It was just an additional 3/4 inch of adjustment on the last cable. Works fine now. Sometimes it just takes your encouragement to push through to solution space.....
     

Share This Page

New Posts