1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Clutch cross shafts -- Is there a difference?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Chevallier87, Nov 7, 2014.

  1. Nov 7, 2014
    Chevallier87

    Chevallier87 Member

    Boise Idaho
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    Hi all,

    I dont have a master parts list and need to know if there is a different part number between the clutch cross shaft on the V-6 or F-4 cylinder. I'm having a hell of a time trying to get my clutch to work and Im thinking this may be the issue...I also bought 2 of the cross shaft rods measuring between 9-3/4" and the other 10-1/4"...Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. Nov 7, 2014
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2002
    Messages:
    4,418
    Dont think there are any differences in the pivot tubes with the cam lobes if thats what your talking about. I know the rods may be a little different.
    I usually make sure the cam lobes are as close to up and down and then adjust the pedal as needed
     
  3. Nov 7, 2014
    Rralphs

    Rralphs Old Member

    Nederland, Co
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2004
    Messages:
    270
  4. Nov 7, 2014
    Chevallier87

    Chevallier87 Member

    Boise Idaho
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    OK, I got the V-6 cross shaft for sure....do you know which is the correct rod length then?
     
  5. Nov 7, 2014
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2006
    Messages:
    3,466
    These are properly termed "lever and tube" assemblies.
    The lever and tube system is used to actuate the threaded cable which attaches directly to the release lever.

    There are at least 6 different" lever and tube" assemblies used with CJ models alone.
    The variations account for different engines, transmissions and optional clutch makes and sizes.
    In other words a clutch control for the 1951 CJ-3A with an 8-1/2" Rockford is not identical to the 1962 CJ-3B with 9-1/4" Auburn.
    ECJ5 V-6 engines using the "lever and tube" control system have a unique lever and tube configuration.
    I have a collection of several NOS lever and tube assemblies for various applications.

    Note: that some 1968 thru 1970 and I believe all 1971 CJ's used a unique type of clutch control that is called the "CABLE TYPE" clutch control .
    With the "cable type' clutch control there is a long heavy cable that attaches directly to the pedal lever on one end and directly to the release arm at the other end.

    Please identify... your Jeep model and vintage... the engine... the clutch... the transmission
     
  6. Nov 7, 2014
    Chevallier87

    Chevallier87 Member

    Boise Idaho
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    Oldtime,

    I've got a CJ-5 1969, 225 v-6, standard running gear T-14/D18. I've been meaning to put that into my signature...haven't gotten to it apparently hah. This CJ was originally set up with the "lever and tube" system. When I bought it the parts had so much slop (the pivot balls and other linkages), I figured replacing them out would be easy. Has been a hellofa time trying to piece this story together on that Jeep.

    -Hayden
     
  7. Nov 7, 2014
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2006
    Messages:
    3,466
    GROUP 11-02 specific to 1969 D-225

    G907588 release bearing

    1378486 lever

    941232 lever and tube

    803358 spring, clutch fork (3.31" OAL)
     
  8. Nov 7, 2014
    Chevallier87

    Chevallier87 Member

    Boise Idaho
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    Great!
    Does that also come up with a specific number for the clutch rod? Thats what I really need so I can find out what length is required. Thank you for the help.
     
  9. Nov 7, 2014
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,513
    If it were me......
    I'd cut the 90* ends of the shorter rod off and thread the remaining length of rod 1/4"-20 on both ends.
    Then get a couple of 1/4" threaded clevis forks to screw onto both ends.
    You'll have to measure the rod length with the ends to get the correct length for your application.
    Use clevis pins/washers/cotter pins to secure to the tubes.
    Now you are getting a straight, strong pull along with an adjustable rod.
    You eliminate those pesky 90* ends that always wear thru and break.
    If it were me.......
     
  10. Nov 7, 2014
    Chevallier87

    Chevallier87 Member

    Boise Idaho
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    I love the idea of doing that, but I dont have the fabrication tools necessary to do that.
     
  11. Nov 8, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    9,754
    A hacksaw and a 1/4" die...
     
  12. Nov 8, 2014
    flatyfreek

    flatyfreek Member

    Hillsburrito, OR
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2013
    Messages:
    78
    Hell, I could have done that in your driveway when I picked up the top! Here's another way to do it. Get a piece of 5/16'' allthread rod, 2 5/16'' nuts, and a pair of clevises that are threaded 5/16'' and pinned 1/4''. Cut it to the general length needed and adjust to fit using the nuts to lock the clevises in place. If you don't like the look of the threads, put a piece of hose cut to the finished length over the exposed threaded portion. Using the 5/16" over the 1/4" rod gives you extra strength.
     
  13. Nov 8, 2014
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2006
    Messages:
    2,793
    This is basically what I did. Got clevises and all thread with matching nuts and laid everything out on the floor along with the rod with the 90's and cut the all thread to just clear the inside of the clevises, assembled the whole thing up and pinned it to the cross-tube and the arm of the foot pedal. Then adjusted for the called for free-play of the pedal. Much easier to adjust the clutch here than at the cable end. More room.
     
  14. Nov 8, 2014
    gunner

    gunner Member

    Washington state...
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2012
    Messages:
    596
    The others pointed out it's not that tough. You might consider this as a good time to begin accumulating some tools that will help you get the job done on your jeep without having to rely on vendors for everything. I picked up a lot of tools (good ol' American made ones) on ebay over the years- they're used, but still superior to a lot of new stuff out there. Worth the effort.

    I haven't put the new clutch in my A1 yet, but Oldtime sold me a 9 1/4" set up awhile back with a re-welded cross shaft since I was going from a stock 8.5" clutch to the 9.25. He's a wealth of information on these old systems.
     
  15. Nov 8, 2014
    John Schiefer

    John Schiefer Fltfndr

    Clive, IA
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2010
    Messages:
    191
    Ken,

    I would love to visit with you by telephone regarding my problem. I have a 2A with a dauntless V-6, T-14. and D-18 in it. I have clevis' on both ends of the clutch rod and one end of the clutch cable. I am using a#1378486 ear and lever and the clutch will engage only at the very top of the pedal. Could the lever # 941232 be causing the problem or is my abilities falling short. The lever I have shows it fits a Jeepster (Commando) with a V-6 which I think is the same powertrain I have.

    Fltfndr
    John Schiefer
    515-225-0997
     
  16. Nov 8, 2014
    Chevallier87

    Chevallier87 Member

    Boise Idaho
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    So I've already gotten the two different length clutch rods, I don't need to fab anything up. I just need to know which length to use from the parts list specs...
     
  17. Nov 9, 2014
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2006
    Messages:
    3,466
    John,
    Due to terminology I'm not sure that I fully understand your jeeps malfunction.
    I suggest that you start a new topic to address your concern.
    I primarily make sure that all technical questions are properly addressed on the ...
    http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/index.php?act=idx
    I make it to other old jeep forum whenever I get caught up.

    Hayden,
    I am not confident that the length of your specific clutch control rod is stated in the UPL.
    I'll look it up when I get home.
    What type of pressure plate assembly is installed ?
    "Diaphram" or "3 Finger" type ?
     
  18. Nov 9, 2014
    Chevallier87

    Chevallier87 Member

    Boise Idaho
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    I have the diaphragm pressure plate. Thanks again.
     
  19. Nov 10, 2014
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2006
    Messages:
    3,466
    Yes the 1969 CJ was original with a diaphragm type pressure plate assembly.

    The "rod" length was specifically mated to a particular" lever and tube assembly".
    As stated previously I believe the correct "lever and tube assembly" for your 69 CJ with T14 is the 941232.
    That implies you need rod # 947223 (at 9.74").

    Please verify that your jeeps serial number is below #8305-XXX-350311.

    The # 991143 "rod" (at 10.28") was used with 991145 "lever and tube assembly" on CJ's with T14 after #8305-XXX-350310.
     
  20. Nov 10, 2014
    Chevallier87

    Chevallier87 Member

    Boise Idaho
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    OK, I'll confirm my Vin later this evening. Thank you again oldtime, it's much appreciated. I just need to get one of the master parts lists so I don't have to bother every one here for a number haha.
     
New Posts