Claudia Jean A 1967 CJ6 V6 Dauntless

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by jwmckenzie, Mar 25, 2012.

  1. Jan 25, 2015
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    Dane... Of all the things I could think of, I overlooked one of the simple fixes. Thanks will try it tomorrow

    Wenaha .. Thanks. I hope to have this finished in the Spring. Just waiting for painting weather.

    Chris.. Thanks. It is a Weldon system. Bolted up perfectly.
     
  2. Jan 26, 2015
    chris423

    chris423 Member

    greeneville tn
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    sounded good
     
  3. Jan 29, 2015
    Tom_Hartz

    Tom_Hartz Member

    North Carolina
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    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
  4. Jul 13, 2015
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    Big Day.... Finally the paint is good enough, registration with MA and inspection sticker affixed. Now I am ready to drive her.

    [​IMG]

    Maybe I should wash her.
     
  5. Jan 15, 2016
    Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum Member Sponsor

    Big Island on...
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    Beautiful!
     
  6. Jan 30, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    I am going to re-start this build thread, as I go into the Dauntless 225.

    When I built the Jeep, I simply cleaned up the engine, painted it and put it back into the frame. I use the Jeep to get around town at our summer place. So in a couple of years I put <200 Miles on her. Started to have issues and lived with them last summer so, this fall I got her home, to my shop, and started to diagnose the problem.

    Low Compression on #2 and Leak Down tests yielded problems in just about every cylinder. Pulled the heads and sure enough we had problems. Both heads had cracks so had to go into the donor engine I purchased for the oil bath air cleaner.

    Both heads from the donor engine are OK.

    I decided to re-build the donor engine, as it looked like it hadn't been touched before. The cylinders will clean up at 0.30" over. Crankshaft: the main and rods checked at STD and it will need no work.

    I did find one issue with the fuel pump eccentric, that when put back correctly should address the #1 problem I was having.

    Fuel Problems

    More to come.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2017
    johneyboy03 likes this.
  7. Feb 4, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    Block returned from the machine shop. Dropped in the main brgs and the crank to make sure we were good to go. The crank was STD both mains and rods, so had it polished.

    I am not as comfortable with my measurement techniques, as others may be, so I used Plastigage to make sure we have the right clearance.

    Book says clearance should be 0.0005 to 0.0021, all mains checked 0.0015.

    [​IMG]

    End play checked. Book says 0.004 to 0.008. Good to go at 0.006.

    Get her lubed up tomorrow and torqued down.

    Rods are next.
     
  8. Feb 5, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    Got the rods checked. All checked at 0.002 or smaller, book recommends 0.0002 to 0.0023, so good to go.

    [​IMG]

    Will set the ring gaps next.
     
  9. Feb 5, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    Checked the end gap on the rings. Mfg only spec was a min of 0.015. Book says 0.010 to 0.020. I found most between 0.016 a 0.020. A couple were 0.021, and one had to be filed to get it to 0.016.

    Not ideal but I think it will be OK
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017
  10. Feb 5, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Did you make sure while checking the rings that they were in the bore square and at the same height from the deck in each cylinder?
     
  11. Feb 5, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    Yes, just as you described in the blueprint 225 thread.

    Do you see an issue with this end gap?
     
  12. Feb 5, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

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    No not really..............they all seem to be within that specification you gave , which can be different among ring & piston manufactures , so if that is a book value given I would surely want to relate back to the manufacturer's spec's. for end gap.

    Did you bore this to .030 & replace the pistons? or just had someone hone it?
     
  13. Feb 6, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    Had it bored to 0.030 & new pistons.

    Doubled checked the ring box, they were 0.30 over as well.

    I was re-looking at the specs. The Ring Mfg spec was a minimum of 0.004 per 1" of Bore, which is 0.015. As well the FSM spec is "the compression ring should have no less than 0.015" gap".

    Not sure where I picked up the "Book says 0.010 to 0.020".
     
  14. Feb 6, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    While I am waiting on the rear Main seal and front seal (decided at the last minute not to use the rope seals), I am getting the oil pump together. I purchased the Hi flow gears and spacer plate. I was not entirely happy with the spacer plate. I had to do a fair amount of file work to make it consistent with the pump. The pilot holes, for the alignment pins, were not drilled square with the plate, which ended up not being an issue, but really? The spacer shims provided to set the plate in relationship to the gears, were a mama-dog to get in place, but it all worked. The gasket shims they sent with the kit and a new gasket put my end play to 0.004" (FSA says 0.0023 to 0.0058). So good to go.

    So now I wait for the seals.

    Guess I will clean up the shop and put the tools back.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2017
  15. Feb 11, 2017
    jwmckenzie

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    Working on the front cover today,

    Got the pump cavity filled with Vaseline, What a goopy mess.

    [​IMG]

    and oil pump top (or bottom) torqued down to 7 ft-lbs.

    [​IMG]

    Used the ~40 psi spring.

    Mounted the water pump and put the front oil seal in place. Used a new style seal from TA Performance. Very nice part and fit perfectly.

    Front cover is ready to go.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2017
  16. Feb 11, 2017
    Rozcoking23

    Rozcoking23 RUN & GET BIT! Sponsor

    Stockton, CA
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    jwmckenzie, If you have the time I recommend doing the upgrades to the oil pan and oil pickup tube that Terry99 did in his engine build, (baffles, re-enforcing the pickup tube). As the recipient of this motor, I can tell you that even on hills and off camber sections it idols at 22-25PSI. 40-45PSI at 55-60mph.
     
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  17. Feb 11, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

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    Rob, Good to hear all those upgrades to the 225 oiling system worked for you
     
  18. Feb 12, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    I have studied that upgrade (tarry99 does nice work) and think that some of the work is above my welding paygrade. I am going to take a stab at re-enforcement of the pick-up tube. As far as the sump, I really don't do much with this jeep except on the flat, its' basically a take my butt, chairs, cooler and umbrella to the beach vehicle. So not in the plan today. But who knows if this winter keeps up, I may be looking for an inside project and give it a try.

    Jon.
     
  19. Feb 18, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    Working on the intake manifold, it's almost ready. Plugged the exhaust ports to the throttle base of the Carb with 13/32 freeze plugs.

    [​IMG]

    I also removed the steel pan on the bottom of the intake, to see what was there and make sure it was cleaned up. It is held on with 1/8" drive screws. I call them spiral rivets. They were harden and I had to get a cobalt drill bit to get them out, and of course I ended up with oversized the holes. So am waiting for some #10 x 1/4" drive screws to put it back together. I should have just left it alone. Nothing to see here, nothing to clean here.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Feb 18, 2017
    Alan28

    Alan28 Sponsor Sponsor

    Ch√Ętillon en...
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    Very beautiful Jeep and nice work.
     

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