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CJ3B Beastie

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by browncoat, Apr 15, 2017.

  1. Dec 8, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    334
    Thanks for the info Oldoriginal86.

    Would that back pressure still be there if the exhaust system was 2.5inch diameter?

    I was thinking more about the engine breathing easy for best performance rather than the effect that would have on the turbo.
    With a larger bore exhaust I am thinking the back pressure would be minimal?

    At any rate here's what I have done today.
    Easy things changed first and tested as I went.

    Installed the air filter. = Same amount of oil leaking

    Rotated turbo body. = Seemed a little less oil coming out.

    Moved the oil feed from down near the bottom of the block to the top end of the block. = Minor amount of oil, seemed to be what I would expect as normal.
    Enough oil seeping to satisfy me that the shaft is being lubed.


    Couldn't buy a small enough banjo fitting with the AN4 nipple that I needed so made one from a threaded A4 nipple and a block of aluminium.

    [​IMG]

    Here's what the system ended up looking like after the changes.


    [​IMG]
    Drain is now directly below.
    Oil feed from the rear of the engine, same line that feeds the head.
    Crossover to air intake made and installed.
    Still need to mount the waste gate valve actuator.

    From front.
    [​IMG]


    Now there is no reason I can't put the oil feed line back to the lower point on the block and have a dedicated supply to the turbo.


    The next step is to do the exhaust from the turbo back.
    Then I will reassess the oil supply line situation and determine the best course of action
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017
    Danefraz, 73 cj5, 47v6 and 2 others like this.
  2. Dec 8, 2017
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2014
    Messages:
    352
    Any amount of piping will have a positive effect. Keep up the good work.
     
  3. Dec 10, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
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    334
    Big thank you to Oldoriginal86 for the insight about the turbo oil situation.
    I think it may have saved me some headaches down the track.

    Today I finished the exhaust system and ran the engine with the oil feed from the lowest point again.

    Exhaust before the oil feed changed.

    [​IMG]

    Got a straight run from the rear of the turbo to the muffler, then a slight direction change over the rear axle and out the rear.
    [​IMG]


    This is what the exhaust side of the turbo looked like after setting up the original oil feed again.
    [​IMG]

    The smear is where I wiped a finger across the discolouration to check if it was wet oil mist, but it was not, just exhaust residue.

    So now I have a fully functioning turbo with it's own dedicated full pressure oil supply. So all should be good to go.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2017
  4. Dec 10, 2017
    Rogue277

    Rogue277 New Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    Messages:
    14
    I wish those small Diesel engines were as easy to get here in the states... I was contemplating a Detroit 3-53 but the weight is almost double a small block v8. Have easy access from a couple of old trailer mounted compressors that are down back on the farm. Great job on the fab work. Reading this has inspired me to go try to make some room in the shop to move in the first CJ to see how big of a mess this project is going to be... Hate winter here but at least the snow held off till now.
     
  5. Dec 10, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
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    334
    It's all because your EPA not allowing the emissions from diesels, isn't it?

    I think these particular engines got used in a a few models over there during the early 80's so you may get lucky and find one.

    The 4FB1 is a 1.8 L SOHC 8-valve engine with 51 hp and 72 ft·lb of torque used in the 1981–1986 Chevrolet Chevette and the 1979–1987 Isuzu Gemini/I-Mark as well as the Australian Holden Gemini iteration of that car.

    Wikipedia says there was a few different isuzu models that used F series diesels in the US.
    But they would be in demand if there is a limited supply.

    If you do go with a diesel take care it is not one that is regulated to low revs, especially if it's out of old industrial equipment. (y)
     
  6. Dec 10, 2017
    Rogue277

    Rogue277 New Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
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    14
    I run a 3-53 in my skidder not sure how high the rpms go but it has plenty of torque and great fuel economy. I burn about 5 gal of fuel in a 10 hour day.

    The 3-53 is a two-cycle engine. The bore by stroke is 3.875 by 4.5 inches, or 98 mm by 114 mm. The total displacement is 159 cubic inches, or 2.61 liters. The compressions ratio is 21:1. The engine produces 101 horsepower at 2,800 rpm and a maximum torque of 205 ft-lbs at 1,800 rpm. Continuous gross power produced is 70 horsepower at 2,400 rpm.

    Size would work I think plus the 2 stroke just sounds great

     
  7. Dec 10, 2017
    Rogue277

    Rogue277 New Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
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    Here it is in a CJ-7. Probably would be doing better if he wasn’t attached to the brick down the hill...
     
  8. Dec 10, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
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    1st vid, Sounds like the rev range is there OK.

    I reckon go for it, especially if your project needs an engine anyway.

    Add a turbo, might give you half as much HP again from normal aspirated.

    Do something that stands out from the crowd.


    2nd vid, Holy crap if that's his break in procedure.:lol:
    Looks like it produces plenty of what we call down here "grunt". (y)
    Was the towed car even trying.

    It sounds good.
     
  9. Dec 14, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
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    334
    A little update; noticed I had made a mistake and had to move the vent pipe that comes out of the tappet cover of the engine.

    It was getting pressure from the turbo going in to the engine instead of allowing pressure out, so it is now plumbed in to the air system before the turbo.
    I think that may have also contributed to the oil leaking through the shaft of the turbo as it would have been pressurising the engine crankcase and therefore not allowing the turbo oil to drain away as easily as it should.

    Also made a mount for the cross pipe to the turbo as it vibrated horribly when idling.
    It also made a nice spot to secure the oil and water feed pipes.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Dec 14, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
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    334
    Having done about as much as possible on the engine I decided to look at making the main fuel tank that will live between the chassis same as the later AMC CJ5.

    I had an idea earlier to use a Y piece at the standard filler that comes out next to the seat.
    It would connect a short tube to the under seat tank and another pipe line to the main tank at the chassis rear.

    But, when I thought about it, it may be impractical, so to check I brought the body down and set it in place to see what the pipe line would have to look like.

    [​IMG]

    Ooh yeah, now it's looking like a Jeep again!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    OK. So to get the big under seat tank in there that I want, would not leave a lot of room for the Y branch for one thing.
    The slope of the pipe line would not be very steep either because it would have to come from the front of the mud guard arch next to the filler, across to under the rear floor, 90* turn, back to the rear virtually parallel and another 90* turn in to the fuel tank between the chassis.

    Not practical.

    So it looks like I will need a second fill point.
     
    Danefraz likes this.
  11. Dec 14, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    Sep 1, 2016
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    334
    Joined the little gang on the site here that is making fuel tanks. :lol:

    Here's my rear main tank, approx 60 litre capacity. (about 15.8 US gallons)
    The under seat tank will be around 40 litres so 100 litre total capacity. (26.4 G)
    [​IMG]

    Will set up the lid with the standard fuel level sender and pick up line unit, but will be screwing it in place rather than the lock ring it normally used.

    I am thinking the filler will be on the left rear with a tube and fill cap behind the wheel arch. That way both fill points will be on the same side.


    Too hot here today, near 40 C (100 F) so the shed is a bit warm to be welding.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  12. Dec 14, 2017
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    Awesome.
    Make sure the differential axle housing will not smash into your tank under full compression. I had that problem the I had to remedy when I installed my rear mount tank in my 2A.
     
  13. Dec 14, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    With plenty of clearance too, if any parts are going to travel past each other through the cycle. Under fair abuse, a leaf sprung axle moves around A LOT.
     
  14. Dec 14, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    All good clearance wise.

    The chassis is originally an early CJ5 so I am using the same arrangement that my '74 CJ5 has as a guide, so it is clear of the axle.
    Even with a bash plate still to be attached it will be well clear.
     
  15. Dec 17, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
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    334
    Fuel tank finished, holds fuel and feeds to engine just fine so far.

    Had 3 leaks that needed fixing which showed up during the pressure testing.

    [​IMG]

    Filler tube to be extended once the body goes on and the fill point is worked out.

    Speaking of body, got the new floor pan fab'd up and tacked.
    Decided to do the floor pan before putting it in the body so I could get the cut out for the tunnel worked out easily.

    [​IMG]

    It actually ends up with the same floor area on the right side due to the extra cut out for the handbrake bracket as the original, but I get an additional 2.5 inches of flat floor on the left side.
     
    ojgrsoi and 47v6 like this.
  16. Dec 17, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    Sep 1, 2016
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    334
    In case anyone forgot why the floor needs replacing. :n:

    [​IMG]

    The big decision I need to make is what do I do with the rear floor.
    The original idea was to repair and straighten it, replace the supports and fill any rusted out holes.

    Now I am not so sure it will come back to the standard I would be happy with and I am thinking of making an entirely new deck.

    Here's what it looks like.
    Up's and downs, pitted and rusted through in places
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    This is the worst of the pitted area, about the size of a dinner plate, with a few holes all the way through.

    The underside supports are totally shot, and the floor has highs and hollows that I'm not certain will be straight again with my limited panel beating skills.

    [​IMG]

    I have a piece of 2mm thick tread plate that would do a nice job as a replacement floor.
    I don't think I would go to the trouble of pressing ribs into a thinner plate like the original has, so the chequer plate is what I am thinking at this point.

    Going to think about it for a bit, so if anyone has any thoughts, let's hear them.
     
    75 DJ and ojgrsoi like this.
  17. Dec 19, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    334
    I have decided to go with the new rear floor, so got that cut and pressed to shape.

    But first I will replace the firewall.

    The reason being, I would need to modify it anyway to let the brake booster fit the correct spot and while the rest of the floors are being done it is just as easy to do that as well.

    Measured it and cut and pressed the straight bends.
    All these flat plates are 1.6mm thick (16G)
    [​IMG]
    Then cut a cardboard template using the body as a guide, then a steel plate to get the curves at each top corner.
    Cut off the excess corners and formed the corners to the right shape.
    [​IMG]

    Then cut out the old firewall.
    [​IMG]

    Insert the new plate.
    [​IMG]

    Going to remove all the surface rust in behind the dash before that gets welded in, then on to the floor panels.
     
  18. Dec 19, 2017
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    Wow, That looks really nice.
     
  19. Dec 20, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    It looks real easy when it's just a couple of pictures.
    But the old spot welds can sometimes be a pain to get rid of so that the old panel comes out.

    I couldn't get a cutter for the spot welds so had to resort to grinding each spot away and got a little lucky with some of them popping away with a bit of force applied in the right direction

    Not much progress today, got that behind dash panel area wire brushed, needle gunned and sprayed with a rust converter today.

    It is currently around 110 F so not having a very productive day at all.
     
    47v6 and mike starck like this.
  20. Dec 22, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

    Sacramento Ca.
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    Wait! What... but how did... Dang that was... Wait! What? :cry::cry::cry:
     

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