Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by browncoat, Apr 15, 2017.
This is all great stuff!
I am glad people are enjoying the posts, maybe it will inspire more diesel jeeps.
Played with the alternator today.
Hooked up the alternator terminal on the rear body to the battery + along with a multi meter to monitor the voltage, and then tried putting 12 v exciter wire to each terminal in turn.
Found one terminal that prompted an output increase above the batteries base voltage so I am guessing that is the exciter terminal I am searching for.
That terminal induced a load in the alternator that you could hear it in the engine bogging down a little while the voltage at the battery rose to 13.6 volts with some revs.
Also, with the engine switched off, power to that terminal also induced a felt resistance at the pulley when the belt was off.
I think that terminal may need to be the ignition wire otherwise the battery would be drained??
While that terminal was energised a second terminal was putting out around 6.5 volts and increased when revs added so I am not sure whats going on there.
One terminal did nothing at all.
The glow controller seems to be usable. It gives a 5 second timer for power so it might be included in the circuitry.
Also got the power steer pump, and steering rods painted and bolted on to the knuckles.
I'm not a diehard diesel guy, but I do love seeing unconventional swaps.
Glad to hear you got the alternator mostly sqared away. Your thinking is correct; the exciter needs to be wired into your ignition switch. Otherwise, on top of a drain, it will keep feeding power to accessories and you might not be able to shut your engine off.
I'm curious, what letter is the exciter on the wiring diagram you posted?
I believe it would be the S terminal based on seeing other plugs with S+ noted as the exciter terminal.
Been doing real work for the last few days making these alloy fence panels
but only have half the materials so far so got to have a little bit of jeep time this afternoon.
This may be old news to some but here's a solution if you have oil seals that get chewed out by rough pitted or grooved shafts.
My front hub spindles have small grooves that may or may not affect the ability of the seal to do it's job.
It might seal the grease in the hub, or it might not so to be sure I am putting some "speedi sleeves" on the shafts.
Speedi sleeves are a very thin ring of metal that slips over the existing shaft to provide a new flat and perfect surface for the seal lip to run on.
They come in various sizes to suit most applications and shaft sizes.
the ones for Dana 27 spindles are;
They come with a cup that is supposed to be used to install them but the tool is no use in this situation so a piece of pipe the correct size or turned down to suit the lip of the sleeve is needed.
Sitting on the top of the shafts shoulder.
Gently tapping it down to start the sleeve on to the shaft
Half way on.
All the way seated.
There is an option to be able to remove the lip that is used to tap it down but I don't think it will interfere with the use in this situation.
You can also make out that these are a little longer than ideal for this application but again I don't think it will hurt anything with that little lip at the top.
It does not seem to be sticking out enough to interfere with the bearing when it will seat in position but I will confirm that later, and the chamfer helps the seal slip on so I will see how it pans out.
As I said, may be old news to some but this is the first time I have used these despite knowing they exist.
Also made my pudding for the steering knuckles ready to assemble.
I made it with about a 70 to 30 ratio of grease to 90wt oil.
I think a little thicker than the recommended 50 / 50 ratio wouldn't hurt my situation as we have some extreme heat to deal with at times.
After mixing, it flows slowly, like a cake pudding mix surprisingly.
Now to get it into the knuckles with lubing myself up excessively.
I'd love to do a diesel swap - just finding a small unit around here is the hard part, or it will costs a fortune.
Excellent job! Looks good!
For future reference, New Holland has a grease called EP grease, specifically for knuckles of a 4wd tractor. About halfway between 140wt and bearing grease. Comes in quart squeeze containers but won't squeeze well unless its hot.
We're pretty much ignored down here as far as product choices go fhoehle.
I asked at a bearing dealer, here in a heavy coal mining region, about any greases available with the consistency required for our front hubs.
Something between a grease and oil in thickness?
Corn head grease?
Anything that flows under it's own weight?
Just got blank looks and head scratching so thought it would be easier to make it myself.
Maybe I should have tried the tractor dealerships around town.
So I got the front hub assembled and that went OK.
Sent the rims I will be using away to get the old rubber off them so I can repaint them.
Going with 31-10.5 R15 rubber on those.
So while that's happening I moved back to the engine and started to work on the exhaust manifold to mount the turbo, and the bracket to hold the power steer pump.
Right hand side of the engine is already crowded and there is no room to mount the pump that side.
Manifold made and welded, test fitting.
The bracket for the pump.
That took a lot of trial and error, tack, move, bend, and weld before it did what is needs to do.
Glad I wasn't paying anyone to do it.
There is minimal room on the left side once the turbo is mounted and the power steer pump will have to fit in between the alternator and the hose for the air intake to the turbo.
Here is the painted manifold and the pump bracket attached to the block.
Here it is with the turbo attached and the pump in place.
Hose in front of the turbo is a temporary water line in waiting until the turbo gets plumbed in later on.
This is the air filter unit I will be using.
It will mount on the left fender with the intake tube running through a cut out section of the hood.
It should let the little beastie breathe easy.
So there has been a lot of holding of parts in position and thinking and assessing if there will be any future issues over the last day or so.
Hopefully nothing needs to be moved once the body work comes in to play.
Nice jon my friend. I like the diesel conversion and the work your doing. Keep it going as we a;; can't wait to see this running.
What are the fluid lines piped into the back of your alternator? Some kind of pump?
Yep, its a pump.
Those are oil lubricating lines going in to a vacuum pump for the brake booster.
The other pipe sticking up in the air will go to the brake booster.
Apparently there is a problem with diesels drawing a consistent vacuum from the intake manifold so these came with a separate vacuum pump system specifically for the brake booster.
No vacuum at all in a modern turbo diesel. My 5.9 Cummins never shows less than 5 psi of boost... and a maximum of 42 psi with my foot in it
My 85 VW jetta turbo diesel had a vacuum pump for brake boost. When it failed, wife crashed. All ok, but its an important part.
Got the power steering assembled and pipe work secured.
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