CJ2A know how needed

I have a 1948 cj2a and I cannot get the dist to come out of the block.

is there any trick to removing one from the L134 or is mine just weird.

all help appreciated.

also, will any other axles from the jeep line up bolt in and provide better breaking, and strength?
can get 1979 cj5 parts jeep with d30 disc brakes.

 

You don't have to swap axles to get better brakes. http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/brakes/11InchSwap/11_swap.shtml

The Dana 30 axle from a '79 will probably have a 3.54:1 gear ratio - if so, you won't be happy if you keep your L134 and swap in the axle. You probably have a 5.38:1 ratio now. The stock axles should be strong enough with that engine, depending on your driving style.

 

are the springs on a 1979 cj5 and a 1948 cj2a the same distance? just how easy is this swap? I would like to use both axles if I could. I have a scoutII d20 transfer case will that swap inplace of the d18?

so many questions so little time.

The story:

I found a 1948 cj2a that is practicaly rust free, the motor ran until the dist. rotor no longer turns with the oil pump. Point is I am new to the flattie thing and I want a good driver/trail rig built out of mine. (31-33" tires lockright rear and a whole lotta fun.)

Thanks

 

No, the springs are both longer and wider. The front axle spring pads are the same distance apart IIRC. You'd have to move the spring pads inward on the rear axle, since the '79 frame widens to the rear.

 

For the Distributor try taking the oil pump off the other side of the block and see it is stuck there. When I put mine in I believe I just slid it right in and put the retainer and bolt on.

I also did a disc brake coversion on my 2A using Chevy 4x4 front disc brake backing plates, and calipers. and then CJ7 rotors. Small write up on my web site, but its all bolt on with some minor grinding to clear the calipers.

 

i want a rig I can drive on the highway to the trails, maybe to work if economy permits. I have an all out mud truck now, this is just for recreation without the need of a towrig and trailer.

1945 CHEVY
1948 CJ2A

 

How about a Warn/Saturn overdrive? The offset of the Dana 18 makes a place for this cool little planetary transmission. You can more easily run at highway speeds then. http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id130.htm ... though we're talking 55-60, not 70-75.

Realize though that the power-to-weight ratio of a 4-banger Jeep is marginal for cruising at highway speeds. Big tires too are going to make your frontal area larger, rolling friction higher, and gear ratio less favorable. And unlike modern engines, the Willys 4-bangers are all through at 4000 RPM. They have a really long stroke, which gives lots of torque but isn't a spinner. Push them too hard and the rod velocity gets really high, and your rod bearings are in peril.

That said, I'd love to have a flattie with an L-head. They are a blast to drive, and remarkably competent on the trail in stock form (or so I've heard).

 

thanks for the info on the tab, i think mine is broken since the dist. turns free of the motor. anyway the dist. housing will not turn but I will let you know how it turns out.

If anyone has anywrite ups on saginaw swap, engine swaps or putting cj5 axles under please link it for me.

 

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/engines_general.htm

<edit> IMO the only engines that make sense for swaps in flatties are modern 4-cylinders and the Buick V6. V8s will fit, and were popular 20 years ago, but why struggle to fit them in now that the Buick V6 is so widely available?

Look at the tech articles at earlycj5.com or the CJ3B page for axles, brakes and such.