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Build - 1970 CJ5

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FireFighter0817, Oct 13, 2013.

  1. Nov 20, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    I like that option , but I am not able to as the bumper is already made and I have no way to modify it like that. I was thinking an option like this would be good. Saw it posted somewhere and plan on doing this.

    [​IMG]

    It is bolted through the crossmember and to the frame using that L bracket. This is something I am capable of doing.


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  2. Nov 21, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    Just dropped the bumpers off to get powder coated, went with gloss black. Cost will be $250 for sandblast and paint. One last picture of them bare steel couldn't hurt. [​IMG]


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  3. Nov 22, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    Took the shackle mount bushings out yesterday, I was very patient on the first one, and did some research on the best methods to remove them before hand so I would be prepared for battle. The first one took about 30 minutes and I used small drill bits to drill out the rubber enough until I could get the inner sleeve out. After the first one, I kinda lost my patience and broke out the torch, will have some POR 15 repair after the welding and now a couple more from my torching. I found a little 5 dollar puller from my FLAPS that worked great for pushing the inner sleeve out. See the pictures.. Then used a hacksaw to get the outer sleeve out. Anyways not much else done, did a little more sanding and with the use of a BFH got the rear crossmember on for a test fit.

    Have plans now to get the frame to a brothers friend from a local jeep club to get some welding done the weekend after thanksgiving. Hopefully get the crack fixed, bumpers ready to mount and any reinforcement done. Not much else going on.. Few pictures. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  4. Nov 22, 2013
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
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    That puller is autocraft brand?

    That's exactly what I needed when I did mine. Ended up using big C clamps and sockets.
     
  5. Nov 22, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    Yes, although I'm sure you could find a similar tool at any FLAPS.


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  6. Nov 22, 2013
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
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    I'm sure I can, I'll have to look. The puller that a buddy of mine had just barely didn't fit.
     
  7. Nov 22, 2013
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Last edited: Nov 22, 2013
  8. Nov 22, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
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  9. Nov 22, 2013
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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  10. Nov 25, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    Got the bumpers back, they look great and I'm glad I went with gloss black. Not too glossy, was a little nervous about that. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]




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    Last edited: Nov 25, 2013
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  11. Nov 25, 2013
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

    norfolk,va
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    Dec 16, 2006
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    Wow !! Those bumpers look great. Looking forward to seeing it all together .
     
  12. Nov 25, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
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    Thanks!


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  13. Nov 25, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    312
    Rear crossmember painted, sanded it really good and cleaned with a degreaser and then sprayed the POR 15 metal prep on it and let it sit to etch it. Didn't use POR 15 as it's very smooth metal still and I worry about it peeling off.

    I just put normal primer on it and will topcoat it with the chassis black.

    Also got the shackles primed and followed the same process as above. [​IMG]


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  14. Nov 26, 2013
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Mar 4, 2003
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    Just a bit of info for cross members - I cut the ears of the face and put a C channel (@ 3/16) front and rear. I then extend down the outside of the frame rail with 1/2" arms that the bumpers are hooked too. Depending on the pull load, I may add face bolts to the cross members for strength.

    The bumpers I build are tube versions of yours.
     
  15. Nov 27, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
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    Got the rear crossmember mounted today. I used grade 8 hardware with lock washers on every bolt and blue locktight. I planned on upgrading to 7/16 bolts instead of the 3/8, since the holes didnt line up perfect and had to be drilled out a bit. But I was comfortable going up to 1/2 on the top and bottom of the frame and kept the 3/8 on the ends.

    Also mounted the Ross steering box and the brake master cylinder bracket so it will be ready to coat with the POR chassis black. Tomorrow I will put the transmission crossmember and skid plate on for the same reason also.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Put the shackles from McRuff together after painting them, kept them loose until I mount them with the suspension. I also used the factory leaf spring bolts for the middle bolt, I bought out all the 7/16 bolts at ACE and almost had to buy a stainless one so this will have to work for now, but I don't see this bolt being too much of a weight bearing bolt so it may just end up staying like this.
    [​IMG]

    After hitting my legs and getting pants caught several times, I improvised a solution.
    [​IMG]


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    Edit: I changed the rear cross member hardware up a little. Just feel better about it this way. I used a large flat washer on both sides with a lock washer on the nut side also. Looks like this now, maybe it doesn't help but at least I feel better! [​IMG][​IMG]

    Changed my mind about tomorrow, stayed up late and finished a couple more things. Like the transmission crossmember and skid plate. Also went ahead and mounted the bump stops, that way when it gets painted with chassis black there is less of a seem for mud, dirt, or moisture to get in? Made sense since it's late and I felt like tinkering. [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2013
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  16. Dec 1, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
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    Got some work done today thanks to a guy with the space coast jeep club. He welded the rear crossmember in, made some reinforcement brackets for the rear bumper, fixed a crack in the frame, and repaired the front end of the frame where the front bumper mounts since it was all messed up. Now I have to touch up some areas with POR 15 and it will be ready to topcoat. Goal is to get the axles and frame top coated by Wednesday so I can start reassembling. Here are some pictures of what happend today:

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Front end before
    [​IMG]

    What we came up with as a fix [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It's also welded to side of the frame inside, just needs to be drilled out where the bumper mounting holes are.

    The frame crack was repaired and welded on both sides:

    Before, kinda bottom right of the picture
    [​IMG]

    After:
    [​IMG]




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    Last edited: Dec 4, 2013
  17. Dec 3, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
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    Painting done on the frame! I am very excited about how it came out. Fingers crossed that I don't have any problems with it. Again I used the POR 15 self etching primer and POR 15 chassis black. [​IMG]

    I had a problem with the primer spray can, it worked for about 3 minutes and then kept clogging.. I ended up having to use about 5 different nozzles from other cans laying around because I kept having the same issue. I would not buy another spray can of it even though it's a huge time saver. The chassis black layed down really nice and smoothed out. Some brush strokes visible in some places but not bad at all. Best way I found to put it down is to do a very light coat first, where you can clearly still see the undercoat through the brush marks. Then apply a second heavier coat on top.

    Here is after the primer. The instructions say to lightly dust.. Feel like I did a little more than that but oh well. Also cleaned with a degreaser before.
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    After the chassis black
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    The axles are primed also and will get them painted on Friday. Hopefully I have enough paint left! Then the rest of it will start going back together.


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  18. Dec 7, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
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    Made some progress, having a small issue though.. Will explain below

    First of all, I got the skyjacker 4" lift soft ride springs on and got the axles painted enough for now (ran out of chassis black paint)...

    Bushings in
    [​IMG]

    Leaf Springs going on
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Tires and shocks going on
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Used white lithium grease on all the bushings and sleeves, and also put anti-seize on all the non threaded parts of the leaf spring/shackle bolts. The bushings that I bought to go in the frame shackle mounts are a little long, might have to do some trimming or get longer bolts in the future, nothing is very tight now, will torque them down to spec once the body/engine is all back together.. Very happy though, it's sitting a lot higher than I was thinking it would, but there is also no weight on it right now. The rear crossmember is at or just above my waistline, and I'm 6'1. Hope it sits down some so I don't run into shackle angle problems..

    Alright, so I'm actually going to post the problem I am having in the tech section. I'll put link here shortly once it's up but it has to do with the drivers front shock.

    Link: http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?t=106661






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    Last edited: Dec 7, 2013
  19. Dec 7, 2013
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
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    The bushings on my Rancho stock height shackle kit were a little long. I left them as is, I figure it's probably better than the shackles rubbing on the shackle hangars.

    Remember with the lift kit, even on a fully loaded JEEP it takes time to break in and settle.

    With only a frame, they're bound to sit way high up there. :twisted:
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2013
  20. Dec 7, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
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    Good point, I'll leave them then..


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