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Build - 1970 CJ5

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FireFighter0817, Oct 13, 2013.

  1. Oct 31, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    [​IMG]

    :)

    I have spent hours researching every little thing... I am trying to make sure it's all done right. Did you leave the metal ready on longer than the recommended 20 minutes? I was thinking it might be better to leave it on a little longer. And yes I am definitely going to do 2 coats, were you able to finish the first coat on the entire frame before beginning the second coat? Thanks for the rely and good info!!


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  2. Oct 31, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
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    312
    There are very small cracks up front only here:[​IMG][​IMG]
    Only on the passenger side, that's all I have seen so far... There is a bumper that the PO installed I still have to take off.. Hoping it's all good underneath..[​IMG]

    Do you think that crack is a major problem? I don't have access to a welder and have been pretty worried about what to do before painting...

    Edit: Got the bump stops off! Idk why I thought they were rivets, but they were not!


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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2013
  3. Oct 31, 2013
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
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    8,102
    Actually for the metal prep I've kinda got into the habit of spritzing things twice- I hit it once, & then before it has a chance to dry I hit it again, leave it be for a bit, then wash it down. If the rust is bad enough I'll also hit it with a steel brush between spritzes, that seem to do a really good job of conversion. Don't let it dry- cleaning off the powder residue is a pain.

    I always keep an eye on how this stuff sets up- I wait until it's somewhere on the dry side of "post-it note" tacky before I apply the 2nd coat. How long it takes to get there is very dependent on the humidity- I've seen it take anywheres from 1 to 12 hours.

    H.
     
  4. Oct 31, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
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    312
    Removed the Ross steering box, master cylinder, all the bolts on the front and rear bumpers, just have to cut the welds and then it's painting time! [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2013
  5. Nov 2, 2013
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2009
    Messages:
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    Used POR 15, follow the directions. If you have a question, call them, when I was doing mine, I would talk to them a couple times a week. If you have POR 15 in black and the top coat in black you might have a problem knowing where you start and stop . So do not skip around. That Prep and Ready is a good rust remover, I use it to prep stuff when painting. The Marine Clean they have is a very good grease remover. Wear gloves and clothes that can be throw away, it does not come off. Tracked some in the house on the carpet, so watch walking around in the house after working in the garage. When I was done I sprayed a little water on the floor of the garage to set it up.

    Steve
     
  6. Nov 3, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
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    312
    Thanks for the advice! I'm hoping tomorrow paint will start flying... I'm not using the marine clean, using a degreaser I bought from my FLAPS. I also am using grey POR 15, and will paint it with a black top coat.


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    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  7. Nov 4, 2013
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2009
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    1,381
    Plan on the whole day, if you have to be some where that evening, wait. I had things go good and finish like I thought it should. Then one time I fooled with the stuff all day and then some.
     
  8. Nov 4, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
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    312
    No paint on the frame yet unfortunately. The front an rear bumpers ate up my time this weekend. There was some serious effort required to get the factory rear crossmember off also. It was cut on one side and bent in several places pretty bad, needed to be replaced and it ended up coming off. The rivets are a pain and then it was welded along with them. I will either purchase a replacement from classic enterprise or if the rear bumper mounts are in line with the frame I'll just use the bumper in place of the rear crossmember. Have to wait on the bumper to get here before a decision is made on that. Other than that, I did get some more prep done on the frame, it's pretty close to being ready for the por 15 process.

    Here are some pictures of the front and rear bumpers coming off
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Homemade winch plate gone!

    From this:
    [​IMG]
    to this:
    [​IMG]
    Took 2 days

    Took the grinder to some of the frame to get rid of the welding leftovers that happened in the manufacturing process I'm guessing...
    [​IMG]

    Removed the transmission crossmember and skid plate, got them primed at least.. I was determined to put some paint on something!
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Well I think that ends this post, won't get anything done tomorrow but the 2 days after that I should get some stuff done. I would really like to have the paint on this week..


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    Last edited: May 19, 2014
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  9. Nov 7, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
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    312
    Over the past 2 days I have finished the cleanup on the frame, wire wheeling and sanding. After that I got the frame degreased and then etched with the POR 15 metal ready. I left the metal ready on for a few hours and continued applying it so it didn't dry, then left it overnight. Woke up and it was dry, which took some scrubbing to get it off. I know that once it dries it's not really doing anything but I'm hoping it stayed wet for a while before it dried.. Seemed to help some of the rust, I had a lot of smooth metal from the wire wheel and was nervous about the POR 15 going on it. Today I got the 2 coats of my grey POR 15 on, I used a brush. Here are some of the pictures.

    Before degreasing
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Degreasing
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Etching
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Took forever to get it completely dry. Left a few fans on it for several hours and then ended up taking a hair dryer to it.

    Painted
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    The plan is to get some chassis paint to use as a top coat. Might order some from Eastwood, unless I can find something local.

    Also finished the transmission crossmember and skid plate. [​IMG][​IMG]



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  10. Nov 7, 2013
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    You need to coat the POR 15 with in so many hours or it will dry hard. You will have to rough it up to get the top coat to stick.
     
  11. Nov 7, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    Yea, I read the directions from POR 15. It says for fully cured surface to sand with 280-320 grit and apply their self etching primer, and then POR chassis black, after a couple hours of looking tonight, that's probably the route I'll go.


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  12. Nov 7, 2013
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    I think you have 24 hours to coat with no sanding.
     
  13. Nov 7, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
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    Oh well... I don't have the top coat yet, looks like I get to do some sanding! From what I have read it seems that its a pain to sand POR 15...


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  14. Nov 9, 2013
    CJ Ollie

    CJ Ollie Member

    Lincoln, NE
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    Nov 24, 2012
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    I may have missed it but when you brushed the Por15 on, how did you get inside the boxed portion of the frame up front?
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2013
  15. Nov 9, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    I brushed it, I used a small brush to get as far as I could through the openings, I'll buy the internal frame coating soon when I purchase the self etching primer and chassis black for the top coat.

    Also I used probably 80% of a quart of POR 15, I applied it pretty heavy, will have to purchase more for touch ups and the axles in the future.




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  16. Nov 9, 2013
    CJ Ollie

    CJ Ollie Member

    Lincoln, NE
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    Nov 24, 2012
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    90
    Thanks for the info. I have a quart of POR15 and chassis black waiting for me to finish my frame so I can coat it. I am planning to brush it as well and I have been pondering how to get in that portion of the frame. Is the internal frame coating made by POR15 also or is it Eastwood?
     
  17. Nov 9, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
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    It's eastwood, I'm actually leaning more towards there products for the top coat, the cost difference is huge and I have read good reviews using it over POR 15. I have spent hours looking through various forums online, and it seems that a lot of people have had good success with the eastwood products if done right. It's hard to justify spending $30 on 1 can of POR self etching primer.


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  18. Nov 9, 2013
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Did you come up to get that jeep in south carolina? I think I remember seeing it on craigslist. Good work!
     
  19. Nov 9, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
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    It was! I was wondering when this was going to happen... Thanks! It's coming along..


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  20. Nov 11, 2013
    willswilly

    willswilly New Member

    Northern New Jersey
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2008
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    If you use the Works to clean the smaller rusted parts, after they are removed from the Works, place them in a tub with water and some baking soda. This neutralizes the acid on the metal. That's the smoke your seeing, Don't breath in those fumes!!!!
     
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