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Brake Adjustment

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by nolehynaws, Dec 12, 2019.

  1. Dec 13, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
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    Here’s a picture. I dug around in the hole with a screwdriver and couldn’t find anything. Thanks!
     

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  2. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    At the bottom of the picture in that recess is there a slotted hole in there? Also, on the left side of the picture about halfway up, is that a kind of stud with a nut on it?
     
  3. Dec 13, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
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    I don’t see a hole in the recess, just the one on top of it. And yes, that’s on both sides! Do I take that off?
     

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  4. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    No, don't take it off, that's the adjustment. Those are the 9" brakes and you adjust the shoes individually. Can you also take a picture of the end of the axle showing the drum also?
     
  5. Dec 13, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
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    Here’s the pictures! Thanks for the help.
     

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  6. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Are there 3 slotted head screws through the drum from the outside? I can't tell if they are there but if so they are holding the drum to the hub. That's the first step. Second step is loosening the adjusters. Hold the stud and loosen the nut just enough to be able to turn the stud. Both of the studs should be turned towards the axle housing, meaning front one clockwise and the rear one counter clockwise.
     
  7. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I just realized you said left wheel cylinder. The clockwise and counter clockwise is opposite on that side. I thought I originally read right side.
     
  8. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    If the screws are there they of course need to come off.
     
  9. Dec 13, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
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    There are 3 things that you can see now in the new picture but I don’t see how I would get those out. And I loosened the adjusters a little bit!
     

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  10. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Those might not be screws....can you see any slot or a philips head design on them? Usually the holes have a tapered edge for a flat head screw to tighten down on. Can you get the drum to move at all now?
     
  11. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    There might not be anything in there but a bit of dirt buildup?
     
  12. Dec 13, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
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    No, there’s no slot or Phillips head or anything. Just some dirt! And I can rotate it slightly before the driveshaft and everything moves too. Thank you so much for all your help so far!
     
  13. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    It's fine to loosen the adjusters more if necessary to back the shoes off enough to get the drum to come off or at least start wiggling.
     
  14. Dec 13, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
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    How can I tell if I’m actually backing the shoes off? And if they are, do I just start using a hammer and pulling?
     
  15. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    If you can rotate it as you mentioned then the shoes might be backed off enough already. You can start by tapping on the flat part of the drum in case a bit of rust, dirt, whatever might be holding the drum against the hub. You don't want to hit it too hard and damage the drum. Grab the drum and pull/wiggle it if possible. I would also re-read the posts on the first page looking for tips about what to do.
     
  16. Dec 13, 2019
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I enlarged picture to look at studs . yep appears to be swaged
    your going to need the hub puller tool . whole hub/drum has to come off axle shaft
     
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  17. Dec 13, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I kept looking at it but was on the fence....I do agree they look that way. I've only had the ones with screws holding them down.
     
  18. Dec 13, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    X2. The real heavy duty puller that bolts to the lug studs. DO NOT use a puller behind the drums unless you want to buy new drums.

    Did you get a FSM yet? You'll be glad when you do.
     
  19. Dec 13, 2019
    Bobcreag

    Bobcreag Bob C

    Danville, CA
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    I agree with Twin 2. I have a 1965 CJ-5 and it has the tapered axles. You need to get the specialty puller to remove the drum and hub as an assembly. Mine had been sitting in a barn for 17 years. It took a lot of force to get those things off of the end of the tapered axle. Some say to leave the axle nut on there loosely so that when the hub finally breaks free, it doesn't fly across the room/garage.
     
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  20. Dec 14, 2019
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    My '64 came with 10" brakes (but it is a Tux), and the drums were not swedged to the hub. The 9"drums are often swedged to the hub, but not always.
    -Donny
     
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