Blueprint 225

WOW Tarry! This is a fantastic write up. Great information! This should become a sticky or whatever it takes to makes it a permanent thread on this forum

 

Terry, how did you "adjust the valves"? The pic looks like the rockers don't have adjustment screws. What is your guidance on valve lash for these engines?

 

As long as pushrod length is good they shouldn't need adjustment yours are hydraulic. A solid lifter needs adjustability a hydraulic one should self adjust.

 

Correct, however... When I get everything tightened up, and the lifter is on the back side of the cam lobe, so valve closed, there is no gap between the valve stem and rocker (good), but I can still easily rotate the pushrod by hand. If I had an adjustment on the rocker system, I would tighten this up a bit.

 

With Solid lifters and this type of rocker system like in the Buick V6..............I use adjustable pushrods.

For Hydraulic lifters , there seems to be many different opinions on whether or not they should be soaked in oil for a few hours or pre-oiled by using an oil squirt can prior to install..........Bottom line there are many parts inside a hydraulic lifter like a spring and check valve that need to work properly and also need to be clean in order to do so.................on old used Hydraulic lifters I would change them to new and give them a little pre-oil bath.............

If this was a Chevy V8 that gets oil through the pushrods then pre-oiling is probably not as important as say in these little Odd Fired V6 motors that already have a much challenged oil delivery system.

Make sure you pre-lube the camshaft and lifter face with a suitable pre-lube.

 

Thanks, we are all lubed up, new lifters...So I am going to button it up.

 

Solid lifter OHV engines can use adjustable pushrods, or the rocker arms can have adjusters. Our old 134 4 cylinders have solid cams, so have adjustable lifters and rocker arms.
-Donny

 

HAHAHAHAA THAT'S ME

 

what a great build for a Dauntless all these pictures are awesome .super close to the one pic I needed but I must keep searching ….. I might have a mismatched part

 

I need to reread this. I want to rebuild the little V6 next year, and this is such a wealth of information, as is the entire site. My hat's off to the Moderators, the contributors, and specifically for this thread, to Tarry!

 

Just wanted to follow up on this thread as I am tinkering with a couple 225s. About a year ago Tarry99 and I went back and forth in PM regarding the oil pickup mod, where he warned me to double check all my specs before hogging out holes in the block. Anyways, I’m here to say my math was off when boring the oil pickup through the block casting. Even after utilizing machining blocks to gather the best idea on wall thickness, I had a blowout. My initial pickup ID was well under a .500”, closer to .400”. After measuring I was sure I had room for a .562” bore. I used the proper core bit for the job, unfortunately there just wasn’t enough wall thickness. I ended up sleeving it and getting a true half inch (.500”) bore for the pickup, which was much better than stock.
Anyways, moral of the story, check your math a dozen times and if using multiple items to get a reading on something like wall thickness on the block. Remeasure the individual components and also measure stack up height.
The only thing I can come up with is either core shift or there are a few different block castings floating around leaving more material to remove from the pickup.

Anyways, thanks for a great thread Tarry99!

 

Your welcome.......and glad you were able to save the block.....