Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Bigdaddy13, Dec 9, 2019.
Oh, now I can - Thanks!!
Last night, this wasn't available, seemingly? Maybe I was just tired..haha.
No you're good, I had to fix something for you.
First official addition. New Smittybilt rear seat. Daughter approved.
Fixing my cobbled together Saginaw mount is probably my next project once I get the cooling system back together. Sketched up a possible game-plan:
Merry Christmas everyone.
Well, took some time to work on my saginaw mount. Bought some 1/4 plate And after mocking it up in cardboard i cut it with my cutoff wheel and drilled some holes in the right spots.
The idea is that the top surface will give a spot to mount a winch plate without interfering with the steering box.
Something like this:
I’m working on reinforcing the top mount:
Before and after on the rail-side:
Happy new year!
I decided to get 2020 started on the right foot, and that i’ve had enough crap quality/2nd-hand winches.
Just pulled the trigger on Warn M8000:
Hope 2020 is a great year for all of us afflicted with Jeeper’s syndrome!
I am making some good progress on my winch mount, and had my M8000 arrive, too! Very Cool!
Unfortunately I also accidentally left my ignition on overnight a couple nights ago, and proceeded to create a no spark situation...[facepalm]. After checking a few connections I realized that my coil was cracked and belching oil out, so even though I tend NOT to throw parts at the problem, I went ahead and bought a new coil as an apology to a very well-behaved jeep thus far. (Long story short, still no spark, thus the troubleshooting)
With the key on, using a test light:
1. I have 12v to the Pos side of the coil
2. I have 12v's and some nice sparks at the points.
3. I have 12v at the breaker plate and the distributor "shaft/main bolt"
4. I also have 12v's from the coil to the dist. wire, and dist wire to the center connection on the cap.
Once I checked all that, I cleaned all metal to metal connections (points, condenser, at the coil, etc)...and still no spark at the plugs.
This motor was timed and I'm assuming points were well set before this issue because it idled and ran at speed very well, but I went ahead and re-checked point gap .035 @ 0 degrees BTC.
I bench tested the condenser...which gave me dubious results. Using the Ohm setting on my Digital multi-meter, I would have expected it to show a bit of a reading and then a move towards infinity, right? It pretty much always showed infinity...no movement. When I tried to charge it and then discharge it, it moved very quickly from a very small charge to zero, as in less than a second. (if that doesn't make sense, it could be because I'm somewhat un-sure of what exactly I'm looking for when it comes to Condensers, and I'm getting mixed info on how exactly to test, but nothing that I've tried has brought expected results. SO, I've got a condenser on standby at the parts house, too.)
Ok, well that was a great education on how Buick motors are put together...haha.
Ended up being the coil, the points and the condenser...
Fixed everything, got it running and put'er right to work moving our small trailer around:
T98? T18? Thinking about picking this up to prepare for a fall 2020/winter 2021 project.
I know i’ll need adaptors, but i’m trying to foresee which ones. Been reading up for the last week.
i want to keep my t-case, but i’ll eventually swap out my 198 V6 for either a 4.3l or a 225/231.
Get it! I think it's a t18 based on the PTO cover, which iirc is on the drivers side on the t98.
I'm nearing the end of my t18 swap and am excited to have the benefit of the granny gear combined with my 3.73 axles. Lower low and higher top end!
From what I’m finding, ford switched to the T18 in 65 with the introduction of the Windsor in trucks.
The T98 was attached to the Y-block v8s in 62. They had a massive 1 3/8” input shaft width, where the T18 switched to 1 1/16” (I believe).
I just went through this roller coaster of emotions the other day. There’s some helpful info pertaining to this:
Some T-18 Vs T-98 Questions
the seller actually put that detail in his post, that it’ll bolt up to a y-block. I’m thinking this is likely a Ford T98.
I would venture to say the easiest route is find a T18. Easy to come by in just about any junkyard around here.
Well, with all the sheltering in place, I've made some progress lately, and have a few projects on the horizon.
1. Combined two roll bars to create a DIY family cage.
2. Installed a sweet swing-a-away carrier from DirtWorx
3. Repainted the carrier to blend in (super fun project - got to use my set design background to "age" the metal)
4. Installed original passenger seat, purchased, and started to install new Smittybilt driver's seat.
Dirtworx "hybrid" bumper and Tire carrier - Some detail pics
Comes with hardware required. nice stout steel and some great welding throughout. You can also see the massive D-ring mounts.
Simple, well thought out hinge and swing stop.
Came bare steel which was nice since I was able to see all the connection points.
I ended up priming it, painting it black, and then spraying a top coat of bronze/copper that I "wore" away with mineral spirits.
This is the overall look I was going for. I wanted it to blend it with the natural patina/rust as much as possible.
This swing away gives great access to the tailgate. Just one lever and it swings quite a bit past 90 degrees and stops securely.
Does it have a way to lock it in the open position? You find out how heavy that carrier is when you need to access the tailgate on a left-leaning side hill.
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