Best way to insulate fuel line?

Figured out today that in 75 the 258 did not use the fuel filter with the return to the tank. Checked my FSM, and sure enough, that is the way it's supposed to be. I can't figure a way to run a return without dropping the tank, and somehow adding a return nipple, so I think I'm stuck.

It gets warm up here in the summer, and with the High Speed Burrito Cookers (headers), I worry about vapor lock in the middle of nowhere. I know there is always ice from the cooler, but I like to keep 'em cold. So I want to wrap the fuel line in the engine bay at minimum. What is the best wrap to use for insulation? Is there a specific product?

In the past I remember some guys used to have to run kind of a phenolic resin spacer between the carb and the manifold. Do they still make such things? Seems to me something thick enough to prevent heat transfer could mess with fuel delivery. I'm really ignorant here, what are your experiences?

 

on my 75/304, I replaced the steel line on the engine with rubber and re-routed it..

 

can you use one of these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D65385&N=700+4294798043+115&autoview=sku

 

I would strongly suggest you avoid long runs of rubber fuel line. Too much of a fire hazard. BTDT (not my car though).

Here's a kit that I found with a search http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...05764/p-2005764/N-111+10201+600010263/c-10101 pretty straightforward. Your local plumbing supply may be able to supply some similar material, and I'm pretty sure there are metal ties available which would be a good option if you don't want to use wire.

Re the phenolic insulator, a 1/2" thick insulator won't affect performance as long as the linkage still fits. You might have a hard time finding one for a YF though. You can buy a phenolic blank and machine it, if you have that capability.

Make sure your steel lines don't touch any places under the hood (hot spots). A sheet metal shield will be effective if you need to run the fuel line near the exhaust. Header insulation will keep the under-hood temperature down. You can also install an electric fuel pump near the gas tank, which will typically overcome any vapor downstream of the pump.

 

another option for trying to reduce the likelihood of vapor lock is to relocate the fuel filter to near the tank, rather than having it in the stock location up by the carburetor. the "expansion" into the filter can contribute to vapor lock, so just having fuel line in the engine bay can help.

 

Would also advise to stay away from the rubber, I ran new steel lines from the tank to the top of the block and in places that there was going to be excissive heat or possible tight spot with body I took sections of heater hose and slid it over the 2 fuel lines to the area I wanted protection. Was easy to slide on before the fuel system was buttoned up.

 

Thanks for the input, everyone. There was a short remnant of what looks to be the insulation Timgr posted in the link above on what remained of my auto choke, that is the stuff I remembered. Had no idea it was that expensive, though.

I'm gonna start with a version of Eric's idea...just slit a length of rubber hose with the same id as the existing steel line od. Now to figure a way to protect the filter. I really don't want to move it, as it is nice to give it a quick visual when I lift the hood.

If my cheapo methods don't work well enough, at least now I know how to do it right, thanks Guys!

 

As you know you are only putting a bandaid on the problem. Just be careful modifing without using the proper stuff. Check out this place for supplies or ideas. http://www.pitstopusa.com/Categories.aspx?ID=2435
The fire sleeve just slid over what you have might work.

 

Great link Joe. Lots of heat management stuff, that site will come in handy for any other High Speed Burrito Cooker owners out there.

 

While I am sure all the reasons for not using rubber may be valid, I still have it on my Jeep. The piece is only like 16" long and runs from the filter to the carb. The old metal line was clamped in several places to the engine along the back of the valve cover on top of the block and was prone to heat up. Yes rubber can get a hole rubbed it it. But so can metal. In fact I have had more trouble with metal fuel ines over the years than rubber.. Ask my bud who's metal fuel line developed a pinhole leak waaay back in the boonies. I had a piece of rubber line that we slid over hole in the metal one and hose clamped it to get him going.. If metal is so good then I guess you guys are gonna be replacin all those rubber coolant lines to, e'h?

If you are set on using metal tube, then I would route it away from the engine and wrap it with some high temp reflective tape,. I bought a roll of 900° reflective tape at Ace hardware a few years back..

 

there isn't a fire hazard with the coolant lines, though. however, rubber fuel line can and does deteriorate over time. faster than metal line does. but, rubber can withstand being pinched, while the metal lines will permanently deform. also, the rubber lines are resistant to corrosion from salt, a problem for those of us in the rust-belt. both metal and rubber have their places as fuel line. i'd perhaps opt for metal in high-heat areas, but otherwise am comfortable with rubber line, especially where expansion/contraction is needed (from frame to fuel pump) and from tank to frame (above rear wheels).