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anyone want a jeep!!!!

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by dauntless_powered, Aug 23, 2007.

  1. Aug 28, 2007

    dauntless_powered SUB Chief

    Groton, CT
    Nov 3, 2003
    well scratch this idea, not sure what i did with the cap from the old dist, and i would still need to reintsall the coil, and such... just not sure if its worth buying a new cap for a dist im not going to use, plus i cant find the coil wire to the dist either :(
  2. Aug 28, 2007

    sparky done Staff Member Founder

    Toowoomba, QLD
    Sep 20, 2002
    It would get you close enough.

    Though I'd guess it will have an effect as to which system you're using.
  3. Aug 28, 2007

    mortten I can’t put my finger on it

    Peninsula, Ohio
    Apr 17, 2006
    Make sure you have a good ground on the HEI. I think that was my problem a couple of weeks ago. It was popping in strange places and the timing was right on.
  4. Aug 29, 2007

    jeep1970 New Member

    Jul 14, 2006
    I did not read all the posts so maybe some one already suggested this but here are my 2 cents. Timing chain and gear lose ? or maybe missing a tooth, slack in the timing chain. Are the new mufflers directional. I know some mufflers only go one way. Could they be backwards ?............good luck
  5. Aug 29, 2007

    bkap Paint this thing! 2019 Sponsor

    Tucson, AZ
    Sep 9, 2006
    All those things have been covered. Where 'ya been? :beer: :rofl:

    He's apparently still having quite the struggle and many of us have thrown everything we can think of at the problem. But it's going to be like anything else. Just like lost keys. You always find them the last place you look. R)
  6. Aug 30, 2007

    dauntless_powered SUB Chief

    Groton, CT
    Nov 3, 2003
    hopefully the answer is in the cap... the new one should be here today, so we will see tonight
  7. Sep 2, 2007

    bkap Paint this thing! 2019 Sponsor

    Tucson, AZ
    Sep 9, 2006

    I'm hoping this lack of an update means you're out driving the thing. :)
  8. Sep 2, 2007

    junkfood Member

    Casa Grande,Az.
    Oct 23, 2005
    Sounds like almost everything has been tried but, did you reset the spark plug gap for the DUI? Also the odd fire will run if the wires are off 1 post IIRC. Might try shifting them 1 post either direction. If that doesn't fix it try the other direction. Just a thought that ran through my mind while I was reading this. But it also sounds like the carb might be "sucking" air. I would try pulling it and checking all the screws that hold it together. Or if you know what your doing try the propane trick.
  9. Sep 2, 2007

    junkfood Member

    Casa Grande,Az.
    Oct 23, 2005
    This is kind of long so I'm sorry about that. But it does work and I have used it a couple time. I got it from RRICH over on the JCCA bbs.

    Often engine ills can be traced back to the fuel mixture,
    too much or not enough fuel.
    Measurements can be done with expensive instrumentation to
    determine whether the mixture is right for that engine, but
    there's an easy and inexpensive way as well.
    Propane burns nearly the same as gasoline, and can be used
    to temporarily richen the mixture.

    Use an inexpensive propane torch, the cheap ones are the
    best. It takes a little modification to the torch before
    it will work effectively. Remove the tiny orfice, the tiny
    hole that restricts the amount of propane that can be released.
    Sometimes the orfice is removable, sometimes it needs to be
    drilled out. Use the smallest drill bit you have to enlarge
    the hair-like hole.

    It will not do the job if you do not drill or remove the orfice,
    it will not give enough propane.

    Also remove the torch head, either by unscrewing it or cutting
    it off. What you end up with is just the valve.
    Connect the valve to a small propane bottle, like the torch
    would use.
    To make sure you have correctly removed the orfice, hold the
    bottle with the valve down and open the valve - you should
    get lots of propane, some liquid, mostly gas.
    DO NOT DO THIS NEAR A FLAME - or you'll be surprised.

    Slip a long vacuum hose over the pipe, long enough to reach
    the air intake stream, like the carb's snout, from the
    driver's seat.
    Now you have a tool that will help you diagnose lots of

    Operation - hold the bottle with the valve on top, you get
    propane gas for low RPM tests. Hold it upside down you get
    liquid propane for high RPM or under load tests.

    on the distributor or on bad ignition wires, or on any sparking
    device, like an alternator.

    Vacuum leaks - Valve at the top for gas - simply spray a
    little propane around the suspected areas, like carb base
    gaskets, vacuum tees, intake gaskets, injector seals,
    brake booster, hoses, etc. When you hit the leak with the
    propane the RPM will change. If someone has already tried
    to adjust the carb with the leak present, the carb may well
    be adjusted too rich, nullifying the propane. In that case,
    simply lean the mixture down with the idle screws till it runs
    rough, then use the propane. Make it lean on purpose and
    the system becomes very sensitive. Even tiny leaks can be
    found in this manner.
    Unlike liquids, like carb cleaner, gasoline, ether etc.,
    propane will not wash dirt into the leak's hole, temporarily
    plugging it. And, unlike liquids, in case it does happen to
    ignite, it flashes, burns fast, scares hell out of you, but
    once it flashes the flame goes out. A liquid makes puddles
    that continue to burn causing extensive damage.

    Yes, it will scare hell out of you - you'll leave some hair
    on the hood latch too.

    Remember, propane is heavy, so it will collect in low places.
    It also tends to blow around, and being invisible you can't
    see where it's really going. Use it sparingly. --
    (No, the heater hose doesn't have a vacuum leak, the propane's
    blowing back into the carb.)

    Idle Mixture - Valve at the top for gas - if the mixture is
    set properly, adding just a touch of propane will speed the
    engine up ever so slightly. Adding more propane will cause
    the speed to drop.
    Experiment with that - notice just a little propane speeds
    it up, more slows it down. That's because the ideal setting
    is just slightly lean. If it was set too lean. the R's will
    really rise - the engine "likes it." If it was too rich,
    adding propane will make the R's only drop. The curve is a
    bell shaped curve, with a slightly flat top. Get a good
    "feel" for that.

    Cruise Speed under load - Valve at the bottom for liquid.
    Tape or attach the hose to the air intake - right in the
    airstream. Run the long hose and valve to the driver's seat.
    Go for a ride. The same principle applies at speed under
    light load. Adding propane should just barely increase the
    speed if it is already getting the right mixture of gasoline.
    Adding more should slow it down - too rich.
    If the engine "really likes it" you were too lean.
    This is a great way to determine whether or not you need to
    change jets, and which way, richer or leaner. Who needs
    $50,000 worth of equipment when you can do it for $5?

    Diagnosis - often the question is whether or not a problem
    is fuel or ignition related. Simply duplicate the condition
    where the poor running or misfire occurs, then add propane.
    Obviously if adding the fuel makes the problem "go away" it
    was a fuel problem.

    Stumble On Acceleration - a popular problem. Bad accelerator
    pump? Snap the throttle to make it stumble, but while you
    snap the throttle, snap the propane valve open at the same
    time. It takes a little practice, but if the stumble dissapears
    -- guess what? Propane won't help wrong timing advance.

    Closed Loop Systems - Whenever you add propane the engine
    will react as above, but the computer will see the RPM change
    and compensate in 2 ways. At idle it will re-adjust the
    IAC till the RPM returns to the preset idle speed. At higher
    speeds the O2 sensor detects the added fuel and cuts back on
    the gasoline. The end result is it will momentarily have a
    reaction, then return to what it was before. Then, when
    you turn off the propane it will do exactly the opposite.
    For example on an engine with a vacuum leak: The engine will
    be running rough but at normal speed. When you "hit the hole"
    the R's will increase a moment, then drop down again.
    But - you'll notice the engine is running smoother now.
    Then when you remove the propane, the R's drop suddenly as
    it becomes way too lean for an instant, then it returns to
    normal again.
    The reaction, lean/rich, is the same as with open loop, but
    only for a quick instant.

    "False Air" on MAF Vehicles - Spray a little on the ducting
    between the MAF sensor and the throttle body. The ducting
    should be sealed, no leaks, a common problem.

    Priming an Engine - shoot a good shot of propane into the
    aircleaner, start it up. If it backfires it won't sit there
    and burn like it will when you pour gas down the throat - and
    you don't have to remove the aircleaner.

    Most vehicles can run completely on the propane from your
    valve. If an engine is hard to start, try adding a shot of
    propane to see if it helps. Remember the amount of fuel is
    determined by the valve, the amount of air is determined by
    the throttle opening. I've even driven my van a few blocks
    on the propane when I ran out of gas in the rain and didn't
    want to walk.

    You'll find this tool becomes one of your handiest tools in
    your toolbox.

    Remember - propane ignites easily - observe all the safety
    rules, be careful and it can be your friend.

    ---- BE CAREFUL! ----

  10. Sep 3, 2007

    Fnord5 El Jeepo Gigantico!

    Aug 31, 2007
    I have only been inside two carbs, a Carter AFB, and a Mikuni off of my motorcycle. So forgive me if my terms are a little off.

    The motorcycle was having nearly the exact same problem, Wouldn't start without a healthy shot of starting fluid, sputtered, popped, and ran like crap till it died. Then it started leaking gas. I noticed that part after I was riding around, and cracked it wide open. It sputtered, and died so fast, it almost threw me off the front.

    Turns out that this little brass tube in the bottom half of the carb was split almost all the way down one side. The only way the shop detected it was with a Magnaglo test.

    I have no idea what a 2g looks like, or how they work, but as far as I know, it would be worth looking into.

  11. Sep 3, 2007

    bkap Paint this thing! 2019 Sponsor

    Tucson, AZ
    Sep 9, 2006
    The starting problem can come from several different areas. My f-head needed a shot of starting fluid after sitting even a short time. I put in new points, cap and rotor and now it firers right up, even with a wider points gap because it's as close as it'll go and is still a few thousandths off.
  12. Sep 3, 2007

    anthony Member

    redding ca.
    May 1, 2005
    Nope my jeep is broken. Just partialy finish a frame up restoration. Went out for a mild test drive and one of the old fatigued rear axles broke. It may be a month or two before Ill be driving her again.
  13. Sep 5, 2007

    bnorth10 Wicked Willys Customs

    Feb 27, 2007
    I have read all the posts and know your waiting for the cap. But since everyone has thrown all sorts of ideas to you so far, I may as well throw a few of my own as well even if they dont work at least you will know where you stand.

    A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the leaf springs on my flattie and used an impact wrench to do the job. When I went to start it back up and pull it out of the garage it wouldnt run:(. So I spent two weeks frustrated as all get out and long story short, my amperage guage connection was just loose enough to show good power when not running and when started, it would shake and die so I understand.:twisted: I was just as mad as you. :twisted:

    The second thing it did was shake my gas tank real good and all that crap that was settled in my tank went into my lines.

    So to relate to your situation: #1 Double check every single electircal connection with an voltage meter and for tightness. A small issue can be a big headache.
    #2 Do you by chance have a fuel filter in front of your carb that could be causing starvation of some mild amount, if you change it anyway you will know for sure to eliminate your starvation problem as well as double checking to make sure you are getting proper amount of fuel from your fuel pump.
    #3 In doing all of your messing around, you could have fouled plugs and/or bumped plug wires off.

    Sorry for the length and dont mean to sound like you dont know anything. Trust me, I have been there. I would start back to my basics as proven from my leaf spring project, it turned into an electrical and fuel issue. It must be a Jeep thing!!!
  14. Sep 5, 2007

    dauntless_powered SUB Chief

    Groton, CT
    Nov 3, 2003
    i have read through all the suggestions, and i will revisit them as soon as my new cap comes in.... still waiting for it :(
  15. Sep 5, 2007

    JeepsRcool Member

    Garden Grove, CA
    Aug 31, 2006
    The cap i got with my Dui was assembled incorrectly and wouldn't work, performance traded me the correct cap and all problems vanished. the extended tabs are in the wrong position on your cap most likely. Performance distributors said they had gotten a bad batch of caps.
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2007
  16. Sep 12, 2007

    bkap Paint this thing! 2019 Sponsor

    Tucson, AZ
    Sep 9, 2006

  17. Sep 13, 2007

    bigben New Member

    carlisle PA
    Feb 21, 2007
    sounds like a vacum leak somewhere. my chevy did this after a main vacum line broke.
  18. Sep 13, 2007

    dauntless_powered SUB Chief

    Groton, CT
    Nov 3, 2003
    cap finally cam in, but betwen work and a fever of 102 degs this week, i have not had time or energy to screw with it.... hopefully soon though
  19. Sep 13, 2007

    Wren New Member

    Sep 12, 2007
    When I converted mine to an HEI it did something very similar. It would run and idle fine with an occasional back fire. If you blipped the throttle it would crate a big back fire but nothing out the carb. I bet I checked the plug wires 10 times and on the 11th I figured out that I had them incorrect. I had 3 and 5 mixed up.

    I would think with all the racket they make with no mufflers that it might sound like it is running correctly, mine did but had no power and back fired.

    I think at one point it was running on just one cylinder.
  20. Sep 13, 2007

    bkap Paint this thing! 2019 Sponsor

    Tucson, AZ
    Sep 9, 2006
    WHAT! You'd let a little fever and work — work — get in the way of our knowing the outcome of this grand adventure? Geez... How you gonna' be?


    Hope you're feeling better.

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