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Another Dauntless Clutch Issue

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by rejeep, Aug 18, 2018.

  1. Aug 20, 2018
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    Bearing installed correctly
    Been there done that

    It’s prob from the backside of the fork and hyper extending.
     
  2. Aug 20, 2018
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    5,469
    Just a note on the Novak push vs Speedway pull - I have both. Push on the SM465 and pull on the T18 setups. Once in and done right on the mechanical side - both work equally well. FWIW - I have gone to the Chevy forks and really like the multiple attachment points and changes it makes for things. Might be worth looking at.

    If I get out to the shop this afternoon, I'll try and take a couple pics for you.
     
  3. Aug 20, 2018
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    Awesome thanks.
    The chevy forks look much more useful
     
  4. Aug 21, 2018
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2007
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    A different fork, bearing, ball stud... either individually or a combination of those parts should get you where you need to be.

    Use the fork you have now and put it back in onto the ball stud and attach it to the bearing. Now position the fork arm in the desired (forward towards the front) location through the bell housing window. The fork arm should about 5 to 7 degrees forward for good mechanical advantage, hopefully this puts the arm in a sweet spot in the forward part of the window. Measure the distance between the bearing surface and the clutch pressure plate fingers. You need a bearing that is that much longer.

    Or do somewhat similar to the above but this time put the bearing against the fingers and move the arm forward off the ball stud until the arm is in the desired location in the bell window. Measure the distance between the existing ball stud and the clutch arm. You would need a ball stud that much longer.

    After determining the distances look to see what is available in parts to get you where you want to be.

    It could possibly be just an individual part or maybe a combination of the two that gets you there.
    A different clutch fork makes for additional possibilities.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    edited to add picture
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2018
  5. Aug 28, 2018
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    Success!!!

    Ball stud and a Ruler was my best friend..

    Updates to come
     
  6. Aug 28, 2018
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    That's great news :bananatool:
    Looking forward to your updates.
     
  7. Oct 24, 2018
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    so this reared its ugly head last week..
    After an uneventful afternoon of driving (some hard shifts) I lost clutch control..
    the clutch would not disengage with the pedal depressed, and I was unable to shift transmission into gear..

    I cursed and screamed about this for a week... thinking i would heave to tear into the truck again and that i had an issue..
    finally got some time this AM to crawl under the truck and pull the slave cyl.
    upon removal i noticed the slave rod was shorter than when it went into the truck..
    despite the lock nut on the rod, I have a feeling the vibration of the odd fire wiggled this guy loose.

    I haven't tested anything yet, going to throw a tack weld or 2 on the lock nut and reinstall tonight..

    fingers crossed
     
  8. Oct 25, 2018
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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