Discussion in 'eBay and Craigslist' started by Muzikp, Aug 7, 2019.
1966 Jeep CJ5
I guess if you look at what is was built for, it's not a bad deal. Think a little lower price for me would be better. Two things that are always a no go for me are,
1) fiberglass tubs
2) textured bed lined exterior paint jobs.
But in this case, as it would only be a toy trail rig, I'd wheel it, but put it away wet .
I agree . other than tub . nice package
but I would use it as is . electrical issues not a big problem / fiberglass = lost grounds
Eh - being from the rustbelt the tub isn't a put-off. Most old CJs in MI are 'glass. Somehow he kept the JEEP lettering though?
Shopping bedliner paint for the exterior of my Ranger trailer project. I might also do it on a trail-only Jeep, but not the level of texture that Herculiner has (bought a CJ6 with that applied inside and spent days grinding it back out). I'm finding other options with more of a orange-peel-ish and I don't mind that.
35s is a lot of tire for a ecj5...it says cross-over Ylink steering, but that doesn't mean the ross box has been removed. Can anyone see the steering better than I can from the pics? Overall, I like it and the price is good for a somewhat built wheeling rig...
Stickers on dash reflect really well on the seller...people and their jeeps....god its pitiful...why can't people leave jeeps alone and not make french Who_ _ houses out of them...
I’ll bet $20 that’s not a fiberglass tub. The embossments are one clue, the (rust?) bubbles above the PS rear wheel well are another, but the bracing at the passenger’s footwell are the giveaway.
No gas fill. And no cut out/divot where the old military top bow would end above/behind the rear fenderwells though. Steel replacement tub?
Hard to tell with everything coated in cottage cheese, but it could’ve been plated over before sprayed. Someone local should go look at it.
The firewall area is definitely steel (look a photo of fuse box) and I'm sure the Jeep embossing is original to the steel tub. Those rear wheel openings are opened up a bit, so maybe they were modified where the top bow recess was. Maybe with all the Durabak, he thinks its 'glass???
I've used Durabak on my Land Rover and its quite smooth just like a thick paint that flowed out. I have no idea how they managed to get that coarse cottage cheese finish. If properly prep'ed, good luck removing that stuff!
Durabak comes in smooth and textured. The textured has rubber particles like Herculiner.
Did you spray it or roller your Rover? I'm looking at the Durabak for my Ranger trailer but can't find good examples of a completed rolled-on job using the smooth Durabak.
I was just Pleased to finally see another Automatic in a CJ5, even though it's a Ford.
Perhaps he doesn't know enough about Jeeps to know that its a spring over with YJ springs. Also, spring overs generally need a track bar to prevent axle wrap and I don't see any. Ive never been a fan of spring overs myself. Unless you go with wider axles to offset that much of a height increase your CG is gonna make for a tippy ride, especially with the 35's.
Interesting that the tranny cooler is so close to the muffler.
I too would have to question the glass tub claim. Twin2 is right about the ground thing; first place to look.
Steering shows a power box with a drop pitman with a drag link going over to the passenger side but doesn't show whether it connects to the knuckle or the tie rod.
Boyink also noticed as I did the lack of gas fill under drivers seat. 66's had the under seat tank.
There's some good parts there but for the money being asked there's enough that's not to my liking that would prompt me to look at other options first...
Fiberglass tub is different from "fiberglassed" tub.
Right On, Chilly........
I agree with the others : this Dude thinks that beige Durabak " is " how they make Fiberglass tubs at home.
Mike, I did spray the Durabak, and I forgot it was available in smooth and lumpy. I initally got this product to coat the inside of a roll-up garage door to help protect the exterior paint finish. When the door rolls up, the ribs rub and scratch the outside finish. The Durabak is like a hard rubber finish, and works well on protecting the finish of the garage door. The coating on the inside of the garage door was not UV resistant, and the white finish turned to beige. When I got the yellow Durabak for the Rover, I got the UV resistant version, and it has held its color and durability very well.
Thanks! Not sure how quickly I'll be getting to that project yet. We're close to closing on a house and if that goes through there'll be a bunch of other projects with higher priority. The trailer's just keeping me busy until then.
Als liner is some rugged. And raptor or it’s clones aren’t bad either thin raptor and it’s almost smooth.
I was looking at Raptor - but at this point don't have the ability to spray. Still figuring a house out. And pretty lacking in tools, overall.
When Durabak was mentioned the other day, I checked out their website. They’ll send you two free color swatches. I just got mine today. This is the dark blue and gray, smooth texture.
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