Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by supertrooper, Oct 15, 2010.
I really like what you did with the seat latch. Do you have a list of parts?
Very nice job, never ending story.
Please find a place to visit not too far, 10 miles max, be sure that you can drive with no problem and go driving when nice weather. Fix a date.
Bring some friend or family and so you consider that the work is done.
Otherwise you will always repair this or that.
Nice work. I think the only change I would have made is putting a taper on your pin to keep any rattles at bay down the road when things get worn a bit.
the sping loaded pin is similar to this one but i bought mine locally from a vw/sand rail shop.Ruffstuff T-Handle Pull Pin Latch, Spring Loaded
i put rubber pads on the bottom of the seat mount to stop rattling and if for some reason the latch pin gets worn down the pin is replaceable or i could just shim the rubber pad
Well done on the seat latch. I have to keep the seatbelt tight if no one I sitting in that seat.
i cleaned up the the transmission cover panels and painted them with tan bedliner that i had left over from painting the bottom of the tub. after bolting the panels down and installing the gas pedal i noticed that the little clip that holds the carb linkage rod to the pedal arm is missing. i seached the garage for two hours and couldnt find it. so now i need to find a replacement or make a new rod with heims and 1/4" round stock.
I can't wait to buy this Jeep.
Wow, this is coming along really well! You do great work!!
I am in the middle of installing the same cage you have. Did you find that the A Pillar Tubes floor plate were directly over the hat channel? Did you tie the cage into the frame?
Keep up the great work!
the a pillar tube is over the front edge of the hat channel and i have two mounting bolts going through the hat and two are just through the floor. i didnt tie in to the frame yet. i would need a tubing bender to clear the wheel well notch and the fenderwell headers might be a clearance issue to.
last weedend mounted the front end body panels to figure out where to notch the fenders for shock clearance. due to the hight of the steering box the grill needs to be notcg as well to clear the PS lines. today i got the grill notchd but still need to do the fenders.
while at ace hardware looking for parts to make new carb linkage i found out that the stopped carrying them. i ended up buying some online since all the other local store that would have them were closed for new years. they got here today and i made the linkage out of 1/4" round bar and 1/4" female heims. while installing it i noticed that the plastic air cleaner adapter had warped to the point that the choke linkage would hit it. so i need to figure out a metal adapter or find a raised air cleaner with a 2 5/8" bore.
while i was on speedway motors site looking for heim joints i noticed they had a sale on earls fittings. so i bit the bullet and ordered some -6an fittings and 3/8 hardline to redo the fuel system. this is what 100 bucks worth of an fittings gets you.
i tried to set up the steering shaft to only use 2 u joints but the angle was just a little too much and the upper joint was binding. i added a third u joint and support bearing and now the steering shaft moves smoothly. i had some left over 1" dom tube from the steering box brace so i welded a 3/4" nut the the end so i can thread in a heim to support the shaft.
Dang that thing is clean. Nice.
You may need to support the pillow block bearing more... there can be quite a bit of torque on them at times.
Add a gusset.
on warloch's recommendation i added a couple gussets to the steering support
over the last couple evenings i rerouted and cleaned up the dash wiring and wired up the turn signal switch, tach, and turn/high beam indicators. since inner fenders were pretty rusty i wire wheeled the rust off and cut out the notches for the shocks then sprayed some primer.
yesterday i cleaned up and installed the radiator. the lower radiator hose isnt fitting and i dont know why since it fit before i took the frint end apart. while it was working on that, parts i ordered from summit showed up. i got a new air cleaner with a raised 2 5/8" base and it clears the linkage and mounts alot more solidly than with the pastic spacer. i also bought battery cables that are the correct length and with soldered terminals instead of the bolt on terminals i was using.
today i installed the fuel lines and tank for hopefully the last time. before, i had the rubber fuel hoses slipped over the ends of the aluminum fuel line. i was worried about long term durability from vibration if the end of the tubing wasn't properly supported so thats why i decided to go with AN fittings and bulkheads. i used AN to tubing adapters for the aluminum tubing and AN to hose bard fittings for the rubber lines.
here is the tank side fittings attached to the crossmember.
this is the engine side. i used 90° bulkheads to clear the motor mounts and made a bracket to mount them. since i always forget something when ordering parts, i forgot to get an fuel filter to go before the fuel pump so ill need to order one.
over the new years weekend i made a to do list to help me keep track of what still needs to be done before i can drive it for the first time. im sure there some things i forgot to add to the list but its a good start. i think i have made decent dent in the list over the last couple weeks.
Might be a good suggestion to put some split loom around that wire bundle that crosses the frame and body mount there above the two fittings, and get it clamped solidly in place, before you drive it a whole bunch. Probably fine for a couple of test drives, though.
i still need to finish up the wiring for the fuel sender and taillights and ran out of time to do it today.
Looking very nice.
Yeah, what he said!
I like your fuel line installation. Looks nice and clean and orderly
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