'81 CJ5 Renegade repair

#3 piston was slightly scored and the walls were ever so slightly damaged. On a positive note the machine shop has a good bit of experience with the AMC engines and a few people I asked told me they did excellent work.

 

Crossing my fingers for you, now only if machine shops where a littke faster than a three week turn around

 

Got some pictures of the Heep tonight. Some new baubles added and that's about it. You know when I did the inside of the Jeep I wasn't even concerned about how it looked and that's why it looks like crap. Actually the whole thing was taken apart then thrown back together. One day I might go back through this thing the right way.

Added a console.



The under dash light works now






Labeled the distributor cap for ease of timing and what not



Got a golf ball and made a shift knob out of it. Try to ignore the wiring disaster, broken gauges, and busted dash.



Made a wood glove box since I destroyed the old one. Didn't cut just right but nothing is perfect

 

Don't worry about it. I'm sure I did a few things over the years that others would considerered to be an abmination.
Screw 'em, it's your jeep. build it as you want. I get crap about my plastic pipe end caps as drink holders but I also have real cruise control in the 3B, not the throtle cable..

 

So I've been looking at winch mounts and winches for a few weeks, turns out I like the classic look of the Belleview/Warn 8000/8274 winches. Here's two pictures I found that I am borrowing to make mine. First I need to find a winch then I can make the mount. I might have to extend the front bumper a bit to make the winch fit without hitting the grill. We'll see,



Alright a little driving video before I did a few adjustments to the carburetor and the rear brake needs to be adjusted because it was rubbing the whole ride around the block.

MMM that engine sounds nice.

Dead stops on inclines are not my friend.....

https://4.sendvid.com/ml7ttse6.mp4

Now about the noise-It's a combination of leaky headers, worn out U Joints, possible worn transfercase (I believe output bearing), and either piston slap, wrist pin, or rod knock on cylinder 8. Huh just remembered the transfercase stopped leaking so that could mean 1. It magically fixed itself or 2. It's leaked all out

My plan is to drive it as is till the engine gives up the ghost. I got a whopping 15 lbs of oil pressure at idle and about 35 lbs when I step on the gas at operating temp. (210*F) I have a Manual oil pressure Gauge so it may be true but I have my doubts. Could be a relief spring in the oil pump as well.

Last night I was writing down all the hardware needed to swap to factory manifolds and it turns out the later year factory 360 manifolds have two different size bolts that screw into the head. So I'm going to try to rig something up unless I can trade someone the headers and exhaust for factory manifolds.

 

Yeah, Noah that noise doesn't sound good. Fix the headers first then see whats up. My k5 sounds like a bad valve when the bolt loosens up on the headers.

did the brake adjustment help the power issue? it looks a little sluggish.

Regarding the winches, if you decide to go a cheaper brand winch. Replace the cable with good cable. Its just something I noticed over the summer when I pulled a water line underground with a Badlands 10k Winch. Winch did great! cable was the cheapest cable and broke multiple times. Smittybuilt on my friends rig, the solenoid broke and they gave him a replacement. At the end of the day Warn seems like best way to go. Thought I would give you some of that info.

 

So I have been looking at ways to improve the existing ignition without going to with an aftermarket HEI deal And I found that I could also upgrade the ignition module while I was there. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1UyiMIf6QSKmpxvptwfUTJmbuTi12JmNoIjRtOmTuwC0/pub

 

The HEI module isn't much of an upgrade over the OEM Motorcraft module. Both are just a transistor switch that substitutes for points (aka a Kettering trigger). I'm running the Stealth HEI on my CJ-6... in terms of aftermarket modules, the Delco or Standard HEI module are likely as good as you can find. The "High Energy" part of the HEI is entirely within the more efficient and higher voltage ignition coil.

If you want an actual upgrade, use a MSD 6A capacitive discharge ignition in place of a conventional module. http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Daily_Driver/6201_-_Digital_6A_Ignition_Control.aspx

 

I put on new shifter cap, spring and retainer yesterday along with an msd cap and adapter and plug wires. The starter yoke return spring broke so I'm hunting for a similar spring at the hardware stores in town.

 

I'm planning on a 8274 myself, hoping to find one with a good gear box, reel and end plate. Planning on putting a 6hp motor on from a newer Warn 9.5 winch, Albright solenoid, and synthetic rope. Myself unless doing a period correct build I would not do the Bellview or 8000 if I am planning on actually using it.

 

Went to pull-a-part yesterday and got a coil and starter yoke spring off an 89 Ford E 250 van. Just need to wire the coil and I'll be golden.

 

I decided to just do everything tonight.

Here is what I started with from the Junkyard


Bent these u bolt plates about 90* and drilled out the holes a bit so the bolt would fit.



Coil is done



Then I had to remove the canister coil plug and boot and replace it with the TFI one.


End Result


I'll test it tomorrow.

 

It was a success. Started right up and ran it for about an hour. Went on a small test drive and the left rear drum brake kept dragging so i'll adjust it. Done with the engine for now. I'm going to use the rear bumper for the OBA tank and I'm going to try to find another front factory type bumper so I can modify it.

 

Glad the ignition upgrade works for you.


you might want to see if the rear bumper being an air tank is enough volume for your needs? Simple air tanks are often very cheap and defiantly support more pressure if its a cylinder and can be mounted in a safe location.

My thought was the idea of a pressurized tank on the rear bumper isn't a good idea..... However if you do it, I would include a pressure valve that blows off at around 120 psi and be sure you can weld it really well.

I will look forward to you adding the York 210!! I want to add to my jeep and thought about adding to my k5 also.

 

tank on /in the bumper is not good in an impact they could rupture and do some real damage. small tanks for heavy trucks are cheap.

 

I thought about the bumper tank and the only time it'd have air in it would be when I go to use it. Just to be on the safe side I'll find a small tank and mount it somewhere under the Jeep. I'll stop by the big rig junk yard and see what they got.

 

Lately I've been tinkering with different things like rear brakes, wiring, finding leaks of all kinds, exhaust and wheel bearings. The only snag I've hit so far has been the exhaust manifold.
See I was walking with my exhaust manifold and I sorta slipped on some oil that leaked out of the Jeep and we both hit the ground. Exhaust stud broke off in the manifold and that's where I'm at right now. First I let it sit for a day with some PB blaster, drilled it out, then put an easy out in there and it decided to break off after the bolt started to come out. Need to go buy some good cobalt drill bits or something along the lines of that and drill it out. I also thought about using a long bolt once I drilled it out so I don't have to tap it and use a heli coil. Any thoughts?

 

I have never had great luck with easyouts, about a 50% chance of things going well. A friend has a auto repair shop and he has carbide bits to drill out the easyouts. He keeps them in his desk so they don't disappear somewhere in the shop.

 

Pulled the passenger side axle out yesterday to assess the damage.
The bearing is non existent but I did find a few rollers floating around in the axle tube. The shim, outer oil seal, and dust shield bit the dust.
Pulled the driver side axle and diff. cover and the bearing was shot on the axle. The differential looks pretty good besides some pitting in a few gears. Very little puddin in there.
Think I'll drop the M20, gas tank and I really want to pull the tub off to do some minor body work.

Passenger Axle

 

I took the old two piece axles to the local machine shop to get the hubs and old bearings pressed off and they told me the axles were junk. I was looking at MOSER axles but I read where they didn't have the best customer support. Anyone have experience with Revolution Gear and Axle?