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75 CJ6 Not Really A "Build"

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by fesser, Dec 12, 2015.

  1. Mar 15, 2019
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
    Messages:
    1,724
    Can you post a picture of the swith remove from the tranfert case?

    those switch you have seem to be the one use the the back up light on the transmission.

    There is a difference in the lenght of the thread that goes into the transmission and the one that normaly goes on the transfert case.

    swtich t case.jpg

    swtich trans.jpg
     
  2. Mar 15, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Napa, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2014
    Messages:
    487
    That would explain the nuts on these then. I took one off for the picture.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I have to replace one because the plunger is stuck. I think its a "Cole Hersee" brand.
     
  3. Mar 15, 2019
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
    Messages:
    1,724
    lenght seem to be good. They are way longer than the real back up one.

    Maybe you the oem switch.

    The one i put on mine is a switch from a 1990 chevy cavalier ;)
     
  4. Mar 15, 2019
    txtoller

    txtoller Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Weatherford, TX
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    That is why I am leaning towards the Petty blue.
     
  5. Mar 17, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Napa, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2014
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    487
    Well, not a lot of progress. If truth be told, I came in from the barn last night in a foul mood. Every thing I tried to do went south. No holes lined up, no parts fit, things that looked good had blind sides where you couldn't get a wrench in. To start, I had, for me, a bright idea to use long bolts as guide pins for my dash panel.
    [​IMG]
    It has probably been done before. My thought was that I could work on wiring, and fitment issues without laying on my back. First thing I did was mount the cool stainless steel box I bought from a member on this forum to my dash panel.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The first thing I should have done was too see if there would be any clearance issues. There were. There is a reinforced area under the cowl that hits the stainless box on the passenger side, top corner. I had to cut a bunch of the box to get it to clear. It might have fit if I cheated it down and over to the driver's side before I hard mounted it.
    Then I spent a ridiculous amount of time bolting in my new Classic Industries back "bumper" (I know it isn't a bumper, its what I call it) and the reinforcement that lives inside it. The problem is that I couldn't find my old, badly twisted up, original, and the new one doesn't have some of the holes predrilled. The tub mounting holes for instance. So, I used paint sticks, masking tape, blue locktite, red wine (no beer until I get skinny), pipe clamps, and anything else I could think of to get nuts onto bolts around blind corners and in places too small for my chubby fingers. I finally got that sucker in place. I called it a night and came in the house kind of frustrated.

    This morning, as I was staring at my newly rattle canned rear bumper beauty, a little voice in my head told me that the original body tub bolts did not pass all the way through the bumper. That made me tear apart one of my store rooms until I found the original. Big surprise, huge captured nuts on the top edge of the original.
    [​IMG]
    I decided it was actually easier to cut out the section containing the captured nut, than it would be to take the whole darned thing off again.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Somehow didn't get a good picture of the finished "bumper" but it came out pretty decent. The last picture above shows probably my best weld to date. That shows you the limited skills this project is hindered by. When that was done, I bolted on my newly straightened front bumper (no pictures right now), and decided to delay trying to mount the 8274 yet because I am trying to get this thing driveable in a hurry. Even that didn't go easily (hint- YJ spring kit put the front spring eyes right where the bolts should pass through the bumper and frame.
    After that, I cleaned up the shop a little, and then started to attack the exhaust again. Much bracing, clamping, cutting of tubing, tack welding and learning and I ended up with this...
    [​IMG]
    (note- I did not weld up the two into one collector)
    which looked like this after I tacked it and pulled it out to weld up,
    [​IMG]
    tomorrow, I hope to get the front half of the exhaust back in the Jeep, and weld up the back half which I intend to clamp to the front half.
     
    47v6, Buildflycrash, Danefraz and 5 others like this.
  6. Mar 19, 2019
    chris423

    chris423 Sponsor Sponsor

    greeneville tn
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2014
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    hey the stainless steel glove box looks like mine . i got it from a scrap yard it was a restaurant serving bowl . LOL
     
  7. Mar 20, 2019
    willards

    willards New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2015
    Messages:
    3
    I'm glad my picture helped. I had the exact same feeling just after I painted the body, it was very very blue and I didn't liked it that much. Applying a clear bedliner to the inside helped, and now with the black parts i'm really happy with the color. I can send you a new picture soon with the seats, hood and fenders installed.
     
  8. Mar 20, 2019
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
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    3,112
    I didn't know this was a thing? What brand?
     
  9. Mar 20, 2019
    BadGoat

    BadGoat How High Can You Climb?

    St Croix, USVI
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2017
    Messages:
    40
    I like your idea of using standoffs for wiring the dash. I am finishing up mine and that would have been helpful. Think about including some disconnects in the wiring so it'll be easier if you have to take the dash off in the future. That's the other thing that I wish I had done.

    Keep up the good work. It'll be done before you know it.

    Mike
     
  10. Mar 20, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    Feb 21, 2009
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    Turntable liner is almost clear never sprayed it without tint.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  11. Mar 20, 2019
    txtoller

    txtoller Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Weatherford, TX
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    May 28, 2014
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    It will yellow as it ages.
     
  12. Mar 22, 2019
    willards

    willards New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2015
    Messages:
    3
  13. Mar 22, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Napa, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2014
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    487
    I bought two of them from someone on here. They were food service related things. Had lids and all.

    So, progress. Not really too much. Not sure if I mentioned it before, but this project is fighting me tooth and nail. It seems I can't pick up a nut and a bolt without there being some problem. First order of business was to mount the roll cage on the tub. I had it on before with much spreading, tweaking and prying. I made the plates to go on the underside of the body...
    [​IMG]
    and then sprayed them with the same undercoating stuff I used on the tub...
    [​IMG]
    While I was waiting for that stuff to set up enough to handle, I thought I would try to start the installation of the shifter. I bought a hard mounted shifter assembly made by a company called American. It looks similar to Lokar units but at a much better price. Keeping with the nothing going right theme of this project, I ordered one off Amazon Prime. On the day it was supposed to be delivered, nothing showed. Late afternoon I got an email saying, "sorry, we don't have one, order cancelled". Ordered another one that was very similar (one bend in the shifter arm instead of two), but because it was late in the day, the normal two day shipping counts from the following day. So parts that I expected in two days eventually showed up in six, if you count the day I ordered the first one. I know nobody wants to read a bunch of whining but this kind of customer service seems to be the new norm (ordered neutral safety switches online, one week later get an email saying order cancelled, money returned, out of stock, etc.).
    I thought I would install the shifter while the other parts dried. Big surprise for an old guy like me. The instructions are a video that you access on the internet. No papers, no diagrams, no nothing. I am not as old as some guys on here, but I really don't want to watch a video when I have parts all laid out and just want to know how it goes together. Pause, rewind, pause rewind, zoom to see what fastener the video guy was using, does not work for me. As it turns out, a bracket on the passenger side does not clear the transfer case shifter, so I had to cut a chunk out. I painted the cut up part and went back to the roll bar. I used real brush oakie technology to tweak and twist the bar into place.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I didn't bolt in the front hoop yet. I bought some cool splice things a long while back that I intend to incorporate into the bars that run toward the windshield from the main hoop. My plan is to be able to unbolt the front portion of the cage and remove it while leaving the back half in place. If the gremlims leave me alone, I hope to get to that on Sunday.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2019
    txtoller, ITLKSEZ and Bowbender like this.
  14. Mar 24, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Napa, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2014
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    I got to work on the roll cage a bit today, splitting time between the Jeep and working on drainage issues outside since we are expecting more rain (my apologies to those east of here who are getting real rain). I bought some couplings (if that is the right word) from TMR some time ago. I cut out 1.75" of the two tubes that connect the front and rear hoops. As I mentioned previously, the cage took a lot of tweaking to get it to sit where it needed to sit. So, the first cut I made trapped the portable bandsaw when the tube sprung to where it would rather be after the cut was made. My Sawzall rescued the bandsaw which made the rest of the cuts leaving this...
    [​IMG]
    I forgot to take pictures of the couplings, TMR calls them tube clamps, they are shown on TMR's website here,
    Heavy Duty Clamps for Sale - 2 Bolt Flanges - TMR Customs
    After welding them in, I ground down the welds and bondo'd in my grinding divits. I am sure I am not up to code for competition roll bars/cages with my level of work, but truthfully, this Jeep is intended to be treated like a car that goes on bad dirt roads sometimes. No real wheeling, no crazy stuff.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    After sanding, I primed, and rattle can painted them. The bar was originally powdered coated a rough flat black. My joint is not going to match but at this point I don't care.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I don't know why, but I wanted the option of just running with the rear hoop. At some point I need to make a padded bar that bolts on to the two stumps that are left when the front hoop is off to protect my grape from the corners of the stumps.
    As I side note, when I bolt this all back together tomorrow, my cool, foot long dashboard standoff bolts will be rendered fairly useless as there is less than two inches between the front hoop and the dash. I have to have the front hoop bolted in to lift the body onto the chassis and don't intend to remove it again once I get to that point.
     
  15. Mar 25, 2019
    BadGoat

    BadGoat How High Can You Climb?

    St Croix, USVI
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2017
    Messages:
    40
    The joints will be very handy to have should you have it back together and need to pull the dash for some reason. Have you had the seats in with the new rollbar? On mine, that forward hoop would interfere with the seats. Hopefully you've already looked at this.

    Mike
     
  16. Mar 25, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Napa, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2014
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    I haven't had them in yet. The front hope might get in the way of tilting up the passenger seat. If you are talking about the front, rear hoop, there won't be a problem since this is a CJ6. If the passenger seat has an issue I will just have to live with it at this point.
     
  17. Mar 25, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Napa, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2014
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    487
    One of these days I am going to learn to take more pictures. I installed an in-tank electric pump today since I am going to be running a GM engine with TBI. I felt like I documented it pretty well with the cell phone camera, but after dinner realized the images were mostly in my head (with those dang voices). I had reviewed builds where this has been done before, Zila's comes to mind. I had it a little easier than some because I had an extra sending unit assemlbly left from some other project. The first thing I did was pull the stock pickup/sending unit and measure tank depth.
    [​IMG]
    Then I cut off the pickup tube on the original pickup/sending unit.
    [​IMG]
    The top unit in the picture is the one that I am sacrificing to give me an isolated wire stud to hook up the fuel pump's positive to. In the picture I already cut the pickup tube to allow the stock (Napa Auto parts) fuel pump from a 1991 K5 Blazer since that was what I pulled the engine out of.
    In this picture...
    [​IMG]
    You can see the machine screw, and the isolating bushings that were originally meant to be the connection for the fuel gauge sending unit. I stole that part, and drilled a hole in my original assembly to accept that hardware. I soldered all connections that would be inside the tank, as well as the top of the tank connections for the sending unit and electric pump.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I shrink wrapped them when I was done soldering. I painted on some liquid electrical tape in hopes that I could slow down corrosion, and ran the ground wire to the frame (used stainless hardware also in an attempt to slow down corrosion).
    [​IMG]
    I still have some routing work left to do.
    I reattached the braided/hard lines for the TBI inlet and return lines and connected them to two stubby hard metal lines which I bought from Napa. I chose to start working on the shifter again since I may have some cutting to do on the tub. I can work on the fuel lines later.
    Working on the shifter was like picking scabs off an old wound. My frustration with the instructions being in video format grew to unpleasant size. The video skips over things and shows assemblies that are assembled, when out of the box, they are not. That said, I did get the main structure bolted onto the transmission and decided it was a good time to stop and see where things were going to poke through the floor of the tub. Earlier, when I had finished reinstalling the roll bar, I had unbolted the tub from the rotisserie for the last time (hopefully).
    [​IMG]
    As a side note, if anyone within driving distance wants to use the rotisserie, it is available.
    I carefully raised the tub and then lowered it on the chassis, without mounts or hardware, to see what condition my shifter condition would be in. Although I have no real idea about the tranny shifter, since I haven't installed any of the linkage yet, I am really pleased with the way the shifters should end up. I am actually happy that the double bend shifter I had ordered wasn't available.
    Main shifter plate, viewed from the rear...
    [​IMG]
    the top...
    [​IMG]
    and a close up of the way it indexes onto the th400...
    [​IMG]
    It is hard to see, but the kit uses a cast in hole on both sides of the trans case. They provide two little hollowed out cups, that fit in the voids in the trans and that a big set screw inserts into to help anchor the linkage bracket. When it is all adjusted and tightened down it should work pretty well.
    I used my two cheapo chain hoists to lift the tub, by the roll cage, so that I could set it down on the chassis to see what, if anything, needs cutting...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I placed the shifter in a location that I think will work (I would know better if I had written instructions) and am really happy with the way things look like they will line up, specifically the angles of the t-case shifters and the trans shifter.
    [​IMG]
    I am still not happy with the rear suspension's current stance. The rear shackle is nowhere near the angle it needs to be at, and the tire is cheated too far forward.
    [​IMG]
    I have to fly out to Cape May, NJ Wednesday morning so I won't be messing with this anymore until I get back at the end of the weekend. My first thought is to set some serious weight in the back to see if there is any chance that the springs are going to settle enough to correct the problem. If it doesn't (and I don't suspect it will) then I am going to get my good welder buddy to come over and figure out a way to move the forward spring hangers back a bit, which should re-center the rear wheel and set the shackle angle back toward where it should be. It shouldn't be that tough to do. I am thinking of moving the forward bracket back about 1.25", anyone else have thoughts on this?
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2019
  18. Mar 25, 2019
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    3,770
    The Pictures do help..........
     
  19. Mar 26, 2019
    rejeep

    rejeep Active Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    Nov 5, 2009
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    Looks great
     
  20. Mar 26, 2019
    txtoller

    txtoller Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Weatherford, TX
    Joined:
    May 28, 2014
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    Wish I was close I could use the rotisserie
    My 6 has the Art Carr shifter on the T400, and was thinking of doing same. I like the look!
     

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