Front axle Decisions

My brother and I are both having the same issue with decision time. While I am working on a couple different jeeps right now and he currently has a busted Dana 25 it is time to swap some axles. We both run 35" tires on our jeeps and do trail riding to middle of the road rough wheeling. Last year I installed a Dana 30 with 5.38's and a lockrite and disc brakes on my 52M38A1 and really like it but I havent ran it hard enough to see if it will hold up. I will leave that axle in my A1 but building another jeep with V6 sm420/18/OD, full float rear ect. but dont know what to put in the front We both have mild driving manners but we also like to run challenging stuff so..........


what axle should we upgrade to? Loaded question but my thought process is this:

Dana 30: stick with it because it is easy to swap in and has some nice features but can you build a 30 with high end components for near or less than other two options? I like the width and you dont have to cut it down

Dana 44 Waggy: Good caster but width starts to become an issue so whats it cost to cut down or relocate hangers? Also want to keep the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern so how big of issue is this?

Scout 44: I know theres lots of swaps out there and have contemplated this axle but is it worth it by the time you deal with caster issue, steering hangers ect.

We are running SOA setups so with all that in mind what are your opinions. Need some direction? I dont mind a little wider stance but within reason. I dont like the full width look on an older cj personally.

thanks,

Bryan

 

D25s and D27s = cheap and plentiful; repair or replace when you blow one up.
D30 = narrow track getting harder to find IMO; better steering; axles can be upgraded
D44 = plentiful; maybe not as cheap as the others (demand); I would cut one down to CJ width, if it were me.

keep in mind all can be blown quite easily with some air and a heavy skinny pedal.
maybe letting off the throttle would solve some issues for you....
if you strengthen the axle, next in line is ujoints and driveshafts, then trannys and transfer cases, next weakest link ? see the pattern ?

 

One thing I'd point out is if you are going SOA, all of those will require new spring pads, so caster should not matter. That can be taken care of when welding on the pads. Since you're running 35s, I wouldn't even think about the D30. The V6 probably won't test the 44 too bad, but like Jim said, when you play rough you can break almost anything.:v6:

 

D44. Cheap and strong enough for what you want to do. I'd find some waggie axles and run them full width. Going to 35's with stock width will make it kinda tippy.

 

lots of backspacing can help "narrow" those waggy axles as well. 10" rim with 5.5" backspacing trims 2" off both sides compared to most 10" rims and should still keep the hub protected.

 

Which D30's are you thinking of ? Another idea is to put a widetrack d30(cj7) up front, and gain a little bit more track, and run wheels with not too little of backspacing, I think too little backspacing puts more stress on the axles. Then, cut down a wider d44 to match the front d30 widetrack(if you need the offset). It is easier to shorten a rear axle than a front.. and you can have a flanged 30 spline d44. If you run skinny 35" you probably will do good.. since our jeeps are pretty light.

 

Narrow track dana 30 with upgraded axles.

 

Waggy D 44 front, axle over. No need for highsteer stuff.
Full width 60 wms to wms.

Rear Scout D44 58 wms to wms.
Or with a 18 Tcase, Waggy rear d44 slightly offset diff.

Any more than this is going to cost $ on parts.
Any less will break to easy and cost you $$ on parts.

What I did a year ago was a wide track d30 front and rear stock D44 with spacers to match up.
BUT I should have done the above.
And am doing it now....

It was fine with 33's but not 35's IMHO
Widetrack within reason and keep it 4inch lift.

 

If already SOA, start with a Chevy D44 with flattop knuckles. Make sure it's a small bearing (pre '77), this will allow you to put Ford 1/2 ton hub using chevy bearings, Ford seal, and 76-94ish Ford hubs. There is a couple '80s years that the hubs won't work but most will.
4" off the long side and use a waggy axle will bring the spring pads to 27.5, this will make a WMS to 63.
Did see Extreme 4x4 cut a Chevy 44 down and use scout axles, but it went back under a scout, doesn't help with the WMS but some variation might work with a little research.

There really isn't an easy way to do a 44 in Jeeps, there is fab work anyway you go.

and probably more than you wanted to know about Dana 44s:
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

 

Thanks for all the ideas. Keep them coming. I should mention that I am pretty easy on the skinny pedal 90% of the time. I ran 33"s on stock axles for 10 years and never once had an issue. I have been running 35"s on all my jeeps for the last two years and yes it may seem a little top heavy and narrow at times with a narrow track Dana 30 and 1 and 1/2 spacer on rear but I love the stance. I prefer 3.75 inch backspacing on 15x10 inch wheels for my clearance and stance.

The other thing to note is that I have a full floating narrow Dana 44 for my rear so I do not really need a better axle in the rear. With that, it can limit me to only so much width in the front. I am fine with running 1.5" to 2" spacers as I have always had good luck with them as long as you keep them torqued. For my brother's jeep, he will probably just upgrade both axles at the same time.

I know there are a lot of posts on this topic and hate to rehash it but it is a hot topic and specifically what I want are opinions from all of you on best selection. To add to that, how much does a custom cut axle with 5 on 5.5 hubs usually cost? (I know there are many variations but estimates?) I am handy with most things but dont like cutting axles?

 

Am I beating a dead horse here? No more replies?

 

i dont know much about toyota axles, but maybe there is some thing that would work ?

 

I have Toyota axles front and rear. They have great clearance and similar width to an early Jeep. Aftermarket axles are reasonable, bringing axle strength to a stock Dana 60.

Here's an axle test from Longfield axles.

Longfield axle test results

................................................ft lbs * degree * inner axle used * failure

stock toy birf..............................3700 .....30........long 4340.......birf expolded
randys birf elimn kit......................5000.....40........randys ...........ujoint broke
long treated oem birf....................5100 .....45.......long 4340.......stub broke
newfield 4340 birf........................7000......80.......300 m.............inner axle broke
longfield 4340 birf........................7000......80.......300 m.............inner axle broke
longfield 30 spline birf...................8900.....120......4340..... .........inner axle broke
stock toy 27 spline inner axle..........4000....20.......................... ..axle broke
stock dana 44 30 spline inner..........5200....25......................... ...ears broke
pig toy 27 spline 4340 inner............5500....90....................... .....axle broke
yukon dana 44 30 spline 4340 inner..5800....48............................yoke broke
longfield toy 27 spline 4340 inner.....6500....80............................ax le broke



stock dana 60 35 spline stub..........8300......80 ..........................ears broke
yukon dana 60 35 spline 4340 stub..12000....90..........................shaft broke--------------------------------------------


High steer is available from trail gear.

If you want to see some pics and talk about my setup there is a thread here. You probably have to register.

http://jeepstercommandoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9615&start=30