Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Oldiron90, Nov 7, 2018.
The rear tank was factory, the underseat was dealer installed.
If it was a dealer option do you know how the swap over switch/valve was installed?
I have a ball valve that is located just left of the passenger seat on the floor.
I just read some tech stuff on alternators that explained the 12si. Sounds like an easy fix unless you really need the extra amps. WCP
This is some interesting information. Now I see why some 71's have the underseat fuel tank and some don't.
I like the idea of making it a reliable driver and then doing projects as it is being used. I went too big to begin with and my project slowed.
Keep us posted, this is interesting information.
Easy fix for what?
I picked up that 78 amp 12si yesterday. I know it would be more than enough to run the vehicle but I have a winch and I've always ended up using my winches. I want to make sure that the alternator and battery will be able to keep up with winching.
I was looking at a CS130 alternator but I've read that there are issues with the smaller bearings. I looked into the CS144 (really wanted to go this route) but I've read that it doesn't fit into the 225 alternator mounts with some modification. I have no issues modifying the current brackets or fabbing up something more convenient but with the 10/12si series alternators being a drop-in mounting wise it makes it easier on me since I only have to handle the wiring at that point.
I went out there and looked at the Motorola alternator, looked at where the wiring is connected, where the bracketry sits etc. and I'm thinking that a 12 o'clock position on the new alternator would be ideal. After the alternator has the belt tensioner I believe the 2 prong plug will sit around the 1 - 1:30 position which won't interfere with anything or make it where I have to route the wires in a weird way
These are the search parameters for a 94 amp, 12 o'clock position 12si alternator at O'Reillys.
1987 Chevrolet R10 Pickup RWD with a 5.0l or 5.7l gas engine.
When I pickup the 94 amp I will post up the P/N if anyone might need it.
I've done head first into way too many projects, lost interest and the projects died. Parted em out or sold em as is.
I'm going to do small things here and there. The charging system, ignition system, dizzy w/ pertronix... my goal is to not have the CJ down for more than a week at a time.
That may be different when I drop the D18/OD unit to rebuild the t-case and install the twin sticks... I've never torn into a D18 but they look simple enough so long as the replacement parts are on hand during the rebuild.
Been doing some research on the engine/trans. swap stuff and I've been looking into a Buick 231 mated to a Ford T18 mated to the D18.
I know that's a lot of adapting ($$$) lol but the Ford T18 seems to be prett stout and the case it a decent size smaller than the SM465.
The 231 will drop right in place of the 225 too, same engine mounts and such.
The adapter for the T18 to D18 is similar to the one for the SM465, pretty much just a piece of billet aluminum that they've machined, nice flat piece.
Just working on getting the CJ driving at it's best but keeping the future in mind.
I like the look. Agreed ditch at least one of the hockey pucks. Carry on, make it yours.
Not a fix I guess-just talking about changing from a 9 o'clock to a 12 o'clock position for the terminals.
On the alternator I picked up there are bolts holding the case halves together. I'm pretty sure you can remove them, rotate the case halves to your liking and bolt it back together.
Here's the 94 amp unit with 12 o'clock position.
yup just pull the bolts and twist to the right orientation
Parts have been rolling in.
Need to find some time to start getting things installed...
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